Recommended maintenance for my 80

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Hoping for the best. If all else fails I will just keep on with the beer and call my mechanic. But I think with all the good info on here I can do it. Or maybe I will find a burly guy with big arms and buy him beer to put that bolt back on to correct torque...:cheers: Or maybe I will rig an intricate pulley system to increase the load at the nut while I stand in my neighbor's driveway and pull...
 
Based on the calculations (and a few assumptions) you will need a 3 FT long arm to stick out horizontally to one side, then put your full weight on it and that would be exactly correct for torque.

Since it is not possible to place a horizontal lever arm directly out from the crank bolt, make it 6 ft long and all you need to do is be able to pull HALF your weight on the end of that arm and you'll be good.

Exactly what I did. Take your 3/4" Harbor Freight Breaker Bar ($25) to the store and get a piece of heavy pipe that fits over it.
It's called a Cheater Bar, but if you use it your only Handy, not a Cheater.
 
I'm glad to see that the Neanderthals haven't asked for pics or offered to help give her a hand. Mud is evolving in the past month!

Welcome to Mud.

But seriously, A drop of oil? A single drop? One quart between oil changes? Changing a rear mail seal for that is crazy obsessive even by Mud members.
 
Exactly what I did. Take your 3/4" Harbor Freight Breaker Bar ($25) to the store and get a piece of heavy pipe that fits over it.
It's called a Cheater Bar, but if you use it your only Handy, not a Cheater.

Unfortunately for me, the lever arm only needs to be really short... Kinda like everything else....... My lever arm will still fit between the frame rails, ..................but I can't fit in there to get to it!
 
Head gasket is not maintenance.

Making sure that the egr system and fan clutch are working properly is preventative maintenance that might save your hg.

The temperature gauge on the cluster is a liar so if this is 95-97 (obd2) get an ultragauge or scangauge and set a temperature alarm.

Rear main seal leaks are less common than leaks at the rear hump of the main oil pan - right under the rear main seal.
 
I'm glad to see that the Neanderthals haven't asked for pics or offered to help give her a hand. Mud is evolving in the past month!

Welcome to Mud.

But seriously, A drop of oil? A single drop? One quart between oil changes? Changing a rear mail seal for that is crazy obsessive even by Mud members.
It's not a drop, pretty good leak. Front seal, not rear. I'm not quite that ambitious to tackle the rear seal...besides, how else will I get another 100k without rebuilding...gotta keep the oil in. I might be obsessive, but am ok with it. Besides, the look of disbelief when I say this is what I am doing (or attempting)priceless lol....it's fun to at least try. Hold my beer and watch this!!
 
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Head gasket is not maintenance.

Making sure that the egr system and fan clutch are working properly is preventative maintenance that might save your hg.

The temperature gauge on the cluster is a liar so if this is 95-97 (obd2) get an ultragauge or scangauge and set a temperature alarm.

Rear main seal leaks are less common than leaks at the rear hump of the main oil pan - right under the rear main seal.
EGR is on the list too, thanks!
 
My Tetsuo leaks profusely from somewhere on the back of the engine, but is too polite to leave a spot.

He has just rust protected his entire undercarriage.
 
How did you finally break it? Starter bump method?

I had the engine out. My impact driver would not remove it. I let the machine shop do it. They broke both of their old school American impact sockets with their shop impact gun and had to order a new one. The new one finally got it off.
 
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