Recommended maintenance for my 80 (1 Viewer)

[Cruiser Girl 01]

hello everyone,
I love these forums, and have used this site quite a bit to fix some simple things on my 80 series anniversary edition and so decided to sign up. I just fixed my own brakes, new rotors and pads on the front and just pads on the back. Not a hard repair, but not bad for a girl either

Anyhow, I was wondering what kinds of maintenance I should do to keep this truck running forever. Right now it has 153,000 miles and runs good. Completely stock ride. There is an oil leak at the crankshaft, main crankseal I think. Should I be worried about this? When I park there is always a spot of oil on the ground, and the engine itself is kind of caked with old oil in places. I probably add one quart to keep the level up in between oil changes.

Also wondering if anyone had a digital copy of the FSM? I found a hard copy on eBay for $200, is that a good price? I want to try and do what I can for myself at home, I have been having a lot of fun working on my ride, and am not afraid to try. Besides if I mess it up then I can call a mechanic to fix it....

Thanks

 

[DHT4L]

Change your front and rear diff oil, t-case oil, tranny oil. Replace cap and rotor, spark plug and wire, distributor o-ring. Clean your MAF censor and replace air filter. Replace all old and hardened rubber hoses.

 

[JohnnyOshow22]

Search 96 fzj80 FSM on Google and a link to a PDF will pop up. I've downloaded it and that's what I use.

 

[ewillis]

FSM can be found here For Sale: - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

 

[Cruiser Girl 01]

Sweet! Thank you for your reply, now I can look forward to a couple more things to do....

 

[bicycleagent003]

I found the FSM on eBay a few years ago from a guy in Australia for $9. It's a pdf, searchable, etc. I wouldn't but a book version, get the electronic version only. The maintenance list posted above is a good start. Your engine should last another 150K. Welcome!

 

[beachcomberspi]

Run forever list

Head GasketX
Front main sealX
Rear main sealX
Distributor O-RingX
Valve Cover GasketX
Front axle service-trunnionX
bearings-axle sealsX
ThermostatX
Water pumpX
Blue fan clutch upgradeX
Fuel filterX
Brakes with master cylinder
AlignmentX
Tires balancedX
Spark PlugsX
Front/rear diff/tranny/TC/fluid changeX
Drive beltsX
Heater hosesX
Shocks
Cap and rotorX
Heater control valveX
Spark plug wiresX
New VC GasketX
New oil pan gasketX
New radiatorX
New radiator hosesX
Oil pump with seal
OEM radiator

 

[Bigsky80]

I would definitely replace all of the coolant hoses. So far that is the only thing that has come close to leaving me stranded.

 

[Cruiser Girl 01]

Cool guys, thanks. I think this weekend I'm going to take a couple extra days off and try the front main seal, distributer o ring, oil pan gaskets, clean the MAF sensor, and maybe even the EGR and cleaning all of that out. And then, change the fluid in all the transfer cases and differential. The best part is, all that work has threads posted on here that have convinced me I can tackle this and do it. Might not get all that done right away, but for sure I'm going to tackle the front seal and o ring. If I blow it up I'm sure I'll be posting on here for help. You guys are awesome, thanks for your input and help.

 

[Cruiser Girl 01]

I found the FSM on eBay a few years ago from a guy in Australia for $9. It's a pdf, searchable, etc. I wouldn't but a book version, get the electronic version only. The maintenance list posted above is a good start. Your engine should last another 150K. Welcome!

I'm hoping to get another 100k out of it for sure...

 

[inkpot]

Crank pulley nut is 309 ft# torque. Not easy to do. If the leak is only an occasional drip, I would hold off til it is worse or you have the radiator already out, then do the oil pump seal at the same time. John

 

[NLXTACY]

...and if going that route replace the oil pump screws with these:
Other Kits & Merchandise

 

[rmblaire]

FWIW.... My 3FE has 283,700 mi on her. PO did rear main seal at around 260k and it's already dripping. While the oils spots are slightly annoying, I don't think its worth the time and $$ to be replacing main seals every 15 to 20k miles.

 

[NLXTACY]

Toyota rust proofing.

 

[Cruiser Girl 01]

Crank pulley nut is 309 ft# torque. Not easy to do. If the leak is only an occasional drip, I would hold off til it is worse or you have the radiator already out, then do the oil pump seal at the same time. John

I'm hoping that a 300lb torque wrench and a some leverage will help me...any other tips on this? I'm planning to use the bolts at the flex plate as described elsewhere to hold the engine still while I tighten (and loosen) that bolt...153,000 miles, seal never replaced as far as I know.

 

[NLXTACY]

Fence post as an extension and then have you and your closest friend hang off the end of it. 309# is no joke.

 

[Cruiser Girl 01]

Fence post as an extension and then have you and your closest friend hang off the end of it. 309# is no joke.

Maybe I should eat some cheeseburgers and beer to get my weight up for added leverage

 

[NLXTACY]

Maybe I should eat some cheeseburgers and beer to get my weight up for added leverage

Better get started on that asap!

 

[OGBeno]

Moar beer.

 

[BILT4ME]

Maybe I should eat some cheeseburgers and beer to get my weight up for added leverage

Based on the calculations (and a few assumptions) you will need a 3 FT long arm to stick out horizontally to one side, then put your full weight on it and that would be exactly correct for torque.

Since it is not possible to place a horizontal lever arm directly out from the crank bolt, make it 6 ft long and all you need to do is be able to pull HALF your weight on the end of that arm and you'll be good.