- Thread starter
- #161
These are mounted on the engine in the centre set of the bolt pattern on the above engines blocks, again the face angle to the block is wrong for the FJ.
Last edited:
Rebuild 74 FJ40 RHD from Down Under - 2F to 2H to 12HT - 40 series Axles with 80 series Coils (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter watrob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
These are mounted on the engine in the centre set of the bolt pattern on the above engines blocks, again the face angle to the block is wrong for the FJ.
- Thread starter
- #162
On the 60 & 70 series engines (2H & 12HT) the alternator bracket is a separate item.
Now I mentioned earlier that on the 2H & 12Ht engine blocks there are multiply engine mount bolt hole patterns on the left hand side.
With this black engine mount you bolt it onto the most forward set of patterns. You see the angle is correct and this places the engine perfectly in the engine bay.
No cutting or welding so you can always put a 2F petrol back in.
I do realise that obtaining the older version of these engine mounts maybe difficult in some countries but they are available its just a matter of looking hard enough.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #163
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #164
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #165
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #166
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #167
The gain is 2inches forward for the front axle and 4 inches rear ward for the back axle.
This is not a problem for my sports tub as its fibre glass, the tub was built as a FJ43, so the rear wheels were always to close to the front of the rear wheel arch, the 3 inches rear ward position of the rear axle will now centre the rear wheels perfectly.
I also have another 6 inch box section that bolts onto the rear bar of the chassis frame that the rear lights attach too and also the bumperettes as the tube is around 8 inches longer that a standard FJ40. See second photo!
Last edited:
I didn't know about this fact with the 2H in the HJ45/7. I need to get my mitts on a set of these as well.
Nice, nice build. I'm cringing when I think of wheeling it.
Hi Robert...
I can see even more planning and knowledge has gone into this build than your last.
And the last one turned out extremely well so I can't wait to see the final result here.
That galvanising on your modified chassis looks like it's been done really well too. (They must have experience with tricky jobs and a decent sized dip-tank.)
I can see even more planning and knowledge has gone into this build than your last.
And the last one turned out extremely well so I can't wait to see the final result here.
That galvanising on your modified chassis looks like it's been done really well too. (They must have experience with tricky jobs and a decent sized dip-tank.)
- Thread starter
- #170
Hi Robert...
I can see even more planning and knowledge has gone into this build than your last.
And the last one turned out extremely well so I can't wait to see the final result here.
That galvanising on your modified chassis looks like it's been done really well too. (They must have experience with tricky jobs and a decent sized dip-tank.)
They did a good job, considering it was already gal'd before the 80 series suspension was welded on. They did 2 cleans, one to remove the surface rust from the 80 series items, then they had to chemically clean the old gal off, then hot dip in gal, for $475 its bets dollars I have ever spent?
PS. the chassis weighs 170kg with all the extra 80 series suspension that has been added?
Lao
- Thread starter
- #171
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #172
Set the harmonic balancer to TDC (turning clockwise thats the last grove), there are only two 360deg rotations, one will be piston 1 TDC and the valve rockers on both the inlet & exhaust will be loose on piston 1, you want piston 1. On the other rotation it will TDC on piston 6, you don't want piston 6.
On the IP gear look for the tooth that has a flat edge, it will be on the housing side of the IP gear, paint it white.
Remove the plug on the side of the front timing cover where the IP bolts into, this white line must visible and in the middle of this inspection hole.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #173
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #174
I am now in the process cleaning up the power steering pump, adjustment pulley & bracket. The problem I have is because it hangs down so low on the 2H & 12HT they really get a hammering on the beach.
I will need to make some sort splash tray that bolts onto the cross member the radiator sits on and comes back to protect the pump from the elements?
PS. The photo is of the current chassis with the 2H
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #175
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #176
- Thread starter
- #177
chappohj47
Chappo Built
Mate it looks great
- Thread starter
- #179
Managed to do a little more work on the engine over the weekend. I picked up the power steering pump & bracket after having it sand blasted, gave it a etch primer and a couple coats of paint, came up quite good.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #180
Starting putting back together the turbo.
