Rear window (1 Viewer)

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frismanis

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2004
Threads
22
Messages
501
Location
Sugar Land, TX
Website
www.shayahealth.com
Hi, long time. I am trying to fix my rear window. The gear is fine, the motor is fine. It stopped going down a while back, so I finally pulled the access panel off, and after doing that it went down 1/2 way, then slowed down. I tried going up, and it went 1/4 way up and stopped. Couldn’t get it to move up or down after that. I know there is the safety switch that I’m supposed to bypass. In the wiring diagram it shows it just is a ground interrupt, but the ground wire just goes to ground, can’t find the interrupt. Is it behind the up/down mechanism? I played with some the springs (real scientific), and got it to go up, but I obviously don’t trust it. I took a couple pics so if you could look and point to where to look it would be a great help. Just hold a few minutes while I renew my membership so I can post pics.
 
Here are some pics

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I’m planning on driving this the 12 hour round trip to the Round-Up on Friday, so I still have a day to fix, but would like to get it solved ASAP, so I don’t have to worry about it at last minute. At least it is up now, so if I can’t fix it before I’ll be ok.
 
Green wire twisted and bare not good🤔😯😉
Yes, I posted that I will redo all previous owner connectors before I button it back up.

I am done for the evening because today is my 50th birthday, so we are going out to celebrate.

any suggestions on where to look for the safety switch, or any other ideas they will be appreciated. I will be working on it most of tomorrow.
 
any suggestions on where to look for the safety switch, or any other ideas they will be appreciated. I will be working on it most of tomorrow.
My safety switch used to be on the DS rear d-pillar, it's been gone a long time but you can still see where it was

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Many possible issues. This thread posted slightly below the Classifieds above, is your friend.

 
Many possible issues. This thread posted slightly below the Classifieds above, is your friend.

Read the thread. Thanks.

When playing with it last night it seemed like when I messed with the circled parts it then worked temporarily. I'll spray with PB Blaster and button it up to drive to the Round Up, and then deal with it for real when I get back.

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So I got home, and my son totally retired the tailgate. He hadn't tested it, but wanted to see if it worked. The back panel was still off, so I said I’d go down an inch, then back up. Went down. Wouldn’t go back up. i went to the back, since I knew what I played with yesterday and he went up front to run the switch. Nothing worked. Spent 1/2 hour trying to get it to go up when he said “Oh! I was trying the wiper squirted switch!“ he then tried the window switch and it immediately went up. :rofl: I got out of the truck, told him to button up the back panel, and came in the house. I have no idea if it will work again, but I wasn’t about to try when we are leaving in less than 12 hours, and it’s going to be 35* in the morning.

I just have to laugh.
 
Sorry I can't recall how to loop around the rear safety switch, but the article previously posted is super helpful. Took me forever and some frustrating moments but once I bypassed the switch with small piece of wire on the board using the key on tailgate worked great, then the felt was binding up in the channels causing the window to bind, might want to check that if you haven't already.

I also replaced the connecting board with new one from @ToyotaMatt, cheap piece of reassurance.

Sorry I wish I had some pics and I will try and dig some up.
 
So I got home, and my son totally retired the tailgate. He hadn't tested it, but wanted to see if it worked. The back panel was still off, so I said I’d go down an inch, then back up. Went down. Wouldn’t go back up. i went to the back, since I knew what I played with yesterday and he went up front to run the switch. Nothing worked. Spent 1/2 hour trying to get it to go up when he said “Oh! I was trying the wiper squirted switch!“ he then tried the window switch and it immediately went up. :rofl: I got out of the truck, told him to button up the back panel, and came in the house. I have no idea if it will work again, but I wasn’t about to try when we are leaving in less than 12 hours, and it’s going to be 35* in the morning.

I just have to laugh.
Sorry I can't recall how to loop around the rear safety switch, but the article previously posted is super helpful. Took me forever and some frustrating moments but once I bypassed the switch with small piece of wire on the board using the key on tailgate worked great, then the felt was binding up in the channels causing the window to bind, might want to check that if you haven't already.

I also replaced the connecting board with new one from @ToyotaMatt, cheap piece of reassurance.

Sorry I wish I had some pics and I will try and dig some up.


first ..

repair all the obvious , like the SCARY green twisted wire , that could turn to ashes in a second


- and your well patinaed circuit board

- and ALL the fork and ring terminals too

- do NOT leave 1 originals brass or metal ring or fork or bullet


then , your issue may solve itself ,,, :)

- bypass a switch as a last resort only

- your photos tell me a long story of PO monkey business

- fix it right the first time , and no need to ever re-visit it again

- cheat fate , and take the easy path to the Teq dark side and cut corners here , and you will pay the piper 100% YES

- these back windows power are 50+ years old , Todd @Blastservices / 73 mule with a past , did a TEXT BOOK restore to be smiled upon for reference too ...

- i have used 2 saw horses with carpet pads to support the window fully up position with tail gate down

makes for fast work !

- i would NOT dream of pulling glass , never had too

- the slider track seals / felts / rubbers are critical here to be in excellent shape

- lastly , Brandon @ classic cruisers in Salida Colorado may have a good pre-owned whole tail gate , this could be a option too ...


- the main wires harness goes from the sill main body into the tail gate , gets fatigued and the large gauged wires or small ones can sever inside the color coded tracer stripe jacket inside and look perfect from the out side

- do NOT assume anything here on this job scope , confirm and verify 100% take notes in a paper journal , and your set up for success


good luck

u will see the modern non-usa circut board is a improved design too ........fyu





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some related TECH video i have found useful ,

there is almost ZERO video of any fj55 tail gate repairs ?

i would be kool to document one from start to finish by the FSM

right my ORARCLE @PabloCruise :cool:



 
The switches you have inside are not factory and should just be omitted. There is a ground interrupter on the left side in the jam. It’s possible any of the connections you have including that switch need to all be cut reskinned and new terminals replaced. There is an electric switch in the gate on the key mech and one on the dash. It will work with one of both. They are separate circuits on the terminal junction in the tailgate. Those can be cleaned or replaced. It’s just a junction.
Also, the circled item is the lock out for the tailgate. When glass comes all the way down the lower sash rests on the L bracket and pulls a rod to swing over on the tailgate mech to not allow the handle to be pulled open so you do not break your glass. Or come off the interrupter enough to not allow the motor to work to finish rolling the glass down.
 

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