Yes, that’s a hunk of wood that the glass is resting on. I found the piece the window should go on at the bottom of the door, and the motor brings the arm up and down.
What am I missing?
Rear window fix FJ80
- Thread starter Bryan Smith
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Yes, that’s a hunk of wood that the glass is resting on. I found the piece the window should go on at the bottom of the door, and the motor brings the arm up and down.
What am I missing?
The green roller fits in the greased channel and the bottom of thewindow is glued into the other channel. Had to fix mine and it took some adjusting to get it right. Also take the rubber window slides out of the door and wash them GOOD! Good luck
Be careful trying to put the glass back in the channel. Its tempered and shatters easily... I destroyed the rear window in my 4 runner trying to replace that same type of channel. Most glass shops will put it in for a pretty cheap price. That's what I did with the second 4 runner window 
I just fixed my rear windows. My fronts were held about 2" open by one wood screw per side, which the glass rested on. The rears were propped mostly shut by wooden dowels!
There should be a rubber U shaped molding that goes into the metal channel, then you press the glass into the rubber molding.
The 94 FSM says to lubricate the channel with soap and then use a plastic hammer to whack the channel and molding into the window glass.
The first mistake I made was using silicon grease. I got the window partly seated, but as soon as I tried to lower the window, the glass popped right out of the channel! You want to use something like soap that will lubricate for the insertion, but dry out and help the glass stay firmly in place. I used RU-Glyde, which is a tire mounting lubricant I happen to have. *Maybe* WD-40 or hairspray (tricks used to get dirt bike grips mounted) would work.
You'll want to lower the window regulator enough to slip the wheel into the track before pressing the glass into the channel. Once you have the glass pressed in, you can push the bracket left and right using a pry bar against a block of wood, up against the door skin. If you skip the block of wood, you'll deform the door skin.
After I got mine pressed in and moved to where I wanted it (I ran the window up and down several times to make sure it wasn't going to run the wheel off the end), I used some c-channel pliers to slightly crimp the u-channel near the top lip. I wanted to make sure the glass didn't pop back out of the channel after I seal the doors back up.
There should be a rubber U shaped molding that goes into the metal channel, then you press the glass into the rubber molding.
The 94 FSM says to lubricate the channel with soap and then use a plastic hammer to whack the channel and molding into the window glass.
The first mistake I made was using silicon grease. I got the window partly seated, but as soon as I tried to lower the window, the glass popped right out of the channel! You want to use something like soap that will lubricate for the insertion, but dry out and help the glass stay firmly in place. I used RU-Glyde, which is a tire mounting lubricant I happen to have. *Maybe* WD-40 or hairspray (tricks used to get dirt bike grips mounted) would work.
You'll want to lower the window regulator enough to slip the wheel into the track before pressing the glass into the channel. Once you have the glass pressed in, you can push the bracket left and right using a pry bar against a block of wood, up against the door skin. If you skip the block of wood, you'll deform the door skin.
After I got mine pressed in and moved to where I wanted it (I ran the window up and down several times to make sure it wasn't going to run the wheel off the end), I used some c-channel pliers to slightly crimp the u-channel near the top lip. I wanted to make sure the glass didn't pop back out of the channel after I seal the doors back up.
I just went through this exercise this weekend. Malleus the Younger's 80's driver's side window failed to respond to the "up sesame" command.
After some intensive investigating (and wiping the interior of the door with my head, through the service hole), I determined that the likely root cause of the failure was dirty vertical rubber window glass guides. Look yours over to make sure they are clean. Soapy water and a long, round, soft brush are the things to use. I'm looking for replacement rubber guides for the door; they're not listed in the current parts diagrams.
I'm working on a write-up PSA.
After some intensive investigating (and wiping the interior of the door with my head, through the service hole), I determined that the likely root cause of the failure was dirty vertical rubber window glass guides. Look yours over to make sure they are clean. Soapy water and a long, round, soft brush are the things to use. I'm looking for replacement rubber guides for the door; they're not listed in the current parts diagrams.
I'm working on a write-up PSA.
I like these, but I'm not sure...
Carlisle 24 in. x 1 in. Diameter Polyester Bristled Pipe Brush (Case of 12)-4117602 - The Home Depot
Carlisle 24 in. x 1 in. Diameter Polyester Bristled Pipe Brush (Case of 12)-4117602 - The Home Depot
Front Door: Run Channel (listed under "Glass")
68151-60010 Left
68141-60010 Right
Rear Door:
68152-60011 Left
68142-60011 Right
68151-60010 Left
68141-60010 Right
Rear Door:
68152-60011 Left
68142-60011 Right
Nope, that's the window frame run channel. The ones I'm looking of are inside the door. They're positioned on steel channels on the forward and trailing edges of the door.
I'll post photos.
Door run channels are a squared U shape and go all the way from the top of the window opening to the bottom of the metal channel inside the door.
Well then, that's a horse of a different color. Why didn't you say so?
Item 4 is the RUN CHANNEL, which when I looked appeared to extend just below the lower window frame opening, but I didn't look very closely, and it makes sense that it goes all the way to the bottom of the door.
Item 5, GUIDE CHANNEL, appears to be only for the "trailing edge" of the door. I need to reexamine the interior layout. It seemed to me that both rubber guides fit into sheetmetal guides which were spotwelded into the door. I could be wrong about that, though.
Item 5, GUIDE CHANNEL, appears to be only for the "trailing edge" of the door. I need to reexamine the interior layout. It seemed to me that both rubber guides fit into sheetmetal guides which were spotwelded into the door. I could be wrong about that, though.
IMO the diagram is misleading. They extend further than the diagram seems to indicate, but they don't go as far down as I've seen on some other vehicles.
I doubt you'd ever find a multi-piece run channel seal since it would be too easy for it to slip and fall out or cause binding. Every run channel I've seen is a pretty easy press-in fit, even when new.
I think the guide channel is just the metal piece, which probably never needs replacement.
I doubt you'd ever find a multi-piece run channel seal since it would be too easy for it to slip and fall out or cause binding. Every run channel I've seen is a pretty easy press-in fit, even when new.
I think the guide channel is just the metal piece, which probably never needs replacement.
I'm finishing my right, rear door today, so I'll try to verify whether or not there's a separate seal on that metal piece.
So I have this exact same issue going on. I believe the tracked moved because of dirty rubber window runs too. Is there a write up anywhere on how to tackle this? I have been searching but can't find a good one
I'm working on it. Not that it'll help you now
That sounds entirely correct.
In my door, it goes down farther than the glass, and the rubber fits the opening pretty well.
There's a nebulous mention of soap and water, in the glass installation, in the FSM; I have to assume this is what it means instead.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
I see this is an oldish thread, and I deeply appreciate the discussion on mounting the rear door glass. Im attempting to repair a rear door window issue on my 1993 FZJ80. The window Im working on had a rotten rubber filler that fit into the glass channel and I am trying to fit the window and the replacement rubber filler into the glass channel and I'm making zero head way. Ive soaped up the rubber and attempted to put the glass back into the glass channel, but I cannot for the life of me get the edge of the glass to enter the rubber. Ive tried tapping things in, but I am nervous about using too much force. So specifically:
1. How much force was required to seat the glass into the channel and filler
2. Did you have the Glass channel connected to the regulator arm before seating or did you guide the "green roller thingy" into the glass channel after you seated the glass channel?
Thanks Team!
1. How much force was required to seat the glass into the channel and filler
2. Did you have the Glass channel connected to the regulator arm before seating or did you guide the "green roller thingy" into the glass channel after you seated the glass channel?
Thanks Team!
EPIC Cruisers
Supporting Vendor
1. I did this last weekend however I reused my old channel/filler for now. I started by getting one side of the channel/filler on to the glass and then moved down to the other side. It took a couple firm hits with a rubber mallet. I had a helper hold the glass upright while the bottom was resting on soft dirt/grass. You definitely want to do this on something like dirt/grass to cushion the glass as you hit the channel/filler on.
2. First get the glass in the window runs. Get someone to hold it or secure it so it isnt falling down. Plug your window switch back in but don't activate yet. Next unbolt the regulator. Now put the regulators green wheel in the channel on the window. You may have to move the window or regulator around to get it to go in. Once its in try to line up the regulator mounting holes with the door without having the green wheel pop out of the channel. Most likely you'll have to activate the regulator up/down to get the holes to line up. BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR FINGERS when making the regulator go up/down.
Let me know if any of that is unclear and I'll try to re-explain it.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Thanks for the reply and suggestions, i really appreciate it! I was hopeful that I wouldn't have to remove the glass from the door to seat it in the glass channel, but apparently not. Im digesting the FSM's procedures for the rear door and now I'm wondering if I should just replace the runs if I'm pulling the glass out of the door. This has become a PITA since my LC has to live in the driveway and I live adjacent to a template rain forest. If it gets parked in the 1 car shop/garage its like operating a Rubik's Cube to get anything out of there!