- Thread starter
- #461
The machining will be the big ticket here.
Rear tray for my rusty '86 pickup
- Thread starter mongoose2231
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- Thread starter
- #462
Ok, we have the goodies. Let the build begin.
- Thread starter
- #463
Been quite busy lately, but I managed to get the head buttoned up.
- Thread starter
- #464
Got that crower mild cam on there. Also cleaned a bunch of parts today. Next is to gap the rings and install the pistons on the rods. Moving to crank clearances and rod bearings clearances after. Once rotating assembly is in, it's just a matter of bolting on the distribution, and all the rest of the accessories and such.
Is this cam a new cam for you or did you have it in the other engine?
- Thread starter
- #466
No, I had the stock cam. Since the motor has a webber 38 and headers and 2 inch exhaust, it can definitely do with a cam.
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- #467
So, the crank is in. When moving on to gap rings, I realized that I was send standard rings. Sigh..., I have to wait again for new rings to come in...I bought a set of dnj locally, but I can't get myself to put them in. I have to wait for the new NPR set to get here. The vendor sold me a kit of os pistons and rings, but they fumbled on the rings. I should have checked the boxes when they came in. The motor will have to wait again, another week.
****ery
****ery
Man, when you’re on a roll and things are in full swing, it is a major wall you hit when you need to just stop and wait
- Thread starter
- #469
Exactly.
- Thread starter
- #470
Alright, the vendor shipped new rings, I am returning the others. Should be in my hands mid week next week. 'Twasnt their fault, the supplier fudged this one up.
- Thread starter
- #471
1/4 of the way there!
- Thread starter
- #472
Not much time to work on this last week, but will push hard this week. Hope to have it dropped back in the engine bay by the weekend.
- Thread starter
- #473
So much for finishing this weekend! Got a bit farther with the re assembly of the engine. Put the head on to get it torqued. Realized 4 of the10 bolts had corrosion, so I ordered new bolts. I should have checked them early on. Now I have to wait for them to come in. Sigh...
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- Thread starter
- #474
On the bright side, once the head is clamped, I can add the pan and then drop her in.
That should be fun.
That should be fun.
- Thread starter
- #476
That's a good point. Ill have to dig up the play dough. Thanks for suggesting this. I would have totally missed this step.
I do remember many years ago a friend bought a bolt-in cam for his 327 Chevy and when he started it for the first time it had a clacking noise he said was due to valve adjustment… he was right (ha-ha) 2 valves broke two pistons and bent a rocker if i remember correctly… he’d never checked the spec on this new cam
play dough or clay is total pita imo.
if you have the means, pull all the valves out and put 1 int & 1 exh in using light springs... heavy enough to follow the cam well but light enough to compress with finger pressure. set up a dial indicator to ride a retainer, keeping its stem as parallel as possible to the valve stem. crank is now easy to rotate with the rest of the valves out of the head and done right, you can get an exact figure off the indicator rather than slicing clay and trying to measure. do this for both valves and if running an adjustable cam gear, check the full range of adjustment while you're at it and make note. tricky part is getting the head to sit as close as possible to the final installed height during this without putting full torque to a new HG.
if you have the means, pull all the valves out and put 1 int & 1 exh in using light springs... heavy enough to follow the cam well but light enough to compress with finger pressure. set up a dial indicator to ride a retainer, keeping its stem as parallel as possible to the valve stem. crank is now easy to rotate with the rest of the valves out of the head and done right, you can get an exact figure off the indicator rather than slicing clay and trying to measure. do this for both valves and if running an adjustable cam gear, check the full range of adjustment while you're at it and make note. tricky part is getting the head to sit as close as possible to the final installed height during this without putting full torque to a new HG.
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- #479
Yeah, I was reading about the above method a bit. Seems like the clay method would suit me best as I have an extra head gasket I can use to clamp the head down. I called the cam manufacturer and they said that my stage 1 cam should provide more than enough clearance, and that even their stage 3 cams provide ample ptv clearance. Since I have an extra cylinder head gasket, I will go ahead and do the clay method because I don't have light valve springs laying around.