Rear Sill Project (1 Viewer)

steffan

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This one started out with good intentions but got a little carried away. I figured I'd just use the 11g 2x2" tube that others have written about but since the frame was slightly modified everything else had to be adjusted accordingly. Fortunately, the original sill was intact enough to get some measurements fit the horns etc. everything was cut with the old angle grinder:
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1421273665.541729.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1421273685.836095.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1421273710.305598.jpg
 
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master fabricator!! that is beautiful. I may use this as inspiration myself. was everything really done with an angle grinder?
 
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They sell them on eBay. All ready to install.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1421286987.022009.jpg


I need to install one also. It's the only rot on my 71 FJ40. My brother bought it new and had it zebart the day he bought it.

My question is can I get out the rest sill out without cutting it out?
Will the new sill fit right in.
 

fjgoober

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Steffan,

I'll bet dollars to donuts that was a very satisfying feeling you got when you finished fabricating and installed that!!

LOOKS GOOD!
 

Cruiser Corps

Toyota Land Cruiser Parts | Oklahoma City | USA
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Great work!!! I have always cheated and used one from Real Steel and I know how much work that was so hands down to great fabrication work and a job well done!!!
 
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I bet the one on ebay is paper compared to this one you made, and you probably used what $30 worth of steel. This is an awesome job, extremely impressive.
 

reddingcruiser

Practicing for retirement
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They sell them on eBay. All ready to install. View attachment 1017578

I need to install one also. It's the only rot on my 71 FJ40. My brother bought it new and had it zebart the day he bought it.

My question is can I get out the rest sill out without cutting it out?
Will the new sill fit right in.

Steffans craftsmanship is excellent and NOT on par with what you'll get on eBay. The real up-side is the amount of additional strength he has at the all of the mounting locations.
I've used several variants of the ones on eBay and you'll always need to tweek them a little to get them to work. They do not necessarily "fit right in". To answer your other question, you CAN remove the rear sill without chopping the rear quarters, if you a are good with a drill, a sawz-all and a angle grinder w/cut-off wheel. You can drill out the spot welds on the quarters and rear deck and get the sill out. Off course this is a generalization and will vary depending on the amount of rust or rot you have.
 
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beautiful ... I envy your welding skill (wish mine was as good) ... I bought my sill from Awl_Teq which is a beautiful piece of work also i.e. pretty close to factory, but certainly isn't going to last as long as 3/16"-1/4" welded steel ...
:cool:
 
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any thought of sealing the holes you cut above the mounting brackets. with a tube sill are you worried about getting dirt and water up in there that will sit and rust stuff out as you can't really wash inside?
 

Trollhole

THC
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Pretty sure the rest of the body will rot out before that rusts through. I'd rather have it open. One pinhole and it would fill up with water and really rot.
 
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i ask because i like this idea and am looking at doing it myself soon. any thoughts of pouring a coating in there and running it around. like an epoxy primer. i want to rust proof my upcoming job as well as possible and exposed bare metal inside a place i can't wash out worries me. maybe i'm paranoid but i do want to drive all year and i do get a lot of snow months. thankfully not much salt but still lots of moisture.
 

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