Rear locker mod? (2 Viewers)

[spressomon]

The other mod that may accomplish same: Pull the speed sensor connector at the t-case. This also gets you OD in t-case low range...easy enough to test out.

 

[jemsec]

When spressomon speaks, everyone listens. That's the sincere and factual truth. The house next door to me is for sale. Interested?

 

[spressomon]

Credit for the t-case sensor for OD in low range goes to LandCruiserPhil.

Here's that thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/101067-center-dif-lock-low-range-option.html

Doesn't look like a 2 for 1 deal...

 

[Codger426]

Thank you gentlemen, your wisdom knows no bounds. I will try the transfer case speed switch disconnect and see if I have 4hi with rear diff lock. I will also check what other effects this may have and report back.

 

[Muddy Bean]

So played in the snow last night and realized my rear locker isn't engaging. But that's another story, I'm posting here because I think I realize another cool reason to do the pin mod so the locker will engage in 4Hi. Less drama. With the pin mod, you can engage your rear locker without having to go into neutral or park because you no longer have to shift the tcase....correct? So just stop the truck in gear, lock your center, lock your rear, creep enough for rear to engage and boom?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

 

[tabraha]

Def a mod worth taking the time to do IMO. I did the "gray wire mod" on my Taco to do this and it has come in convenient several times. The biggest times it has come in handy is when a spot is a bit nastier than it looked I've let off the gas, hit the locker and either motored through or reversed out without the sinking effect of stopping to shift the t-case. Just remember to watch that button like a hawk. Not something you want to forget about and get on asphalt with! (its easier to forget with being able to engage in the hi range)

 

[spressomon]

M bean, you don't need to fully stop to engage/disengage any locker...CDL included. Per the op manual it is recommended you lock the rear axle at 5mph. You do need to stop completely, however, to shift between t-case high and low/visa-versa.

 

[Muddy Bean]

M bean, you don't need to fully stop to engage/disengage any locker...CDL included. Per the op manual it is recommended you lock the rear axle at 5mph. You do need to stop completely, however, to shift between t-case high and low/visa-versa.

Got it. Thanks the little cardboard card with instructions was confusing. Ok, you all have convinced me to do this mod. Now to figure out why my rear DL won't engage. :-/

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

 

[fireball]

Looks simple enough, but I'd still like to see a wiring diagram to confirm before cutting into things.

Anyone have the diagram?

 

[spressomon]

MB: The best way to test/diagnose the rear locker is to jack up and support the arse end...both tires off the ground. Then with the key on but engine not running cycle the rear locker switch. You should hear the solenoid clicking and driving the locker.

When you have the switch in the locked position and the tranny in neutral rotate either rear wheel to test for locked condition. Both wheels will move in the same direction if the locker is locked.

Since the locker's sensor wiring loom is in a bit of a precarious location and if you've been rolling over sage brush or similar the wires to the sensor are easily ripped. After repeated experiences with this I finally fabbed a guard for the sensor side of the locker and eliminated the issue. Or its possible you have a bad sensor...although more rare than a ripped wire for same.

But with the arse end in the air and properly supported you'll be able to get it figured out in short order.

That's how I do it.

 

[fireball]

Spresso- did you ever complete this mod? Can you confirm that the picture in photo#5 is accurate and that the black/blue wire needs constant 12v?

I'd still like to see a diagram just to make me feel good before cutting wires!

 

[AimCOtaco]

Thank you gentlemen, your wisdom knows no bounds. I will try the transfer case speed switch disconnect and see if I have 4hi with rear diff lock. I will also check what other effects this may have and report back.

Hmm.. IIRC the shift points for the auto trans are different for low range and disabling the Hi/Lo sense could prevent the trans from getting the picture? -Not sure but I thought I read that around here somewhere...

Or is it simply used to lockout the OD when in LO?

 

[Muddy Bean]

Spresso, thanks. Turns out I need to make a slight turn to get mine engaged. Worked every time.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I too am interested in this mod. When in sand dunes, locking the rear would be useful in 4-Hi.

I was just going to say this. Good thing I searched first.

 

[Codger426]

Following Fireball's comments in post 51 does anyone have a diagram or can confirm the image in photo 5 is accurate as i too am scared to go chopping into looms and shorting wires when I shouldn't.

 

[fireball]

Wiring diagrams are apparently the unicorn of the 100-series world!!!

 

[RobRed]

Black/ blue

 

[krice118]

Is it bad to run the rear locker in 4H? What is the maximum speed that shoud be used when locked in 4H? 20mph? I am just curious and do nto want to make an expensive mistake.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Someone can correct me on this if I'm speaking lies, but the speed you go while locked isn't as much of an issue as the amount of grip your driving surface has and whether you are turning or driving in a straight line. Some diesel truck dragstrip junkies lock their diffs for their launches. If the surface is grippy and/or you're turning, don't lock them....unless it's super necessary

 

[krice118]

Ok cool. That's what I thought. I really like this mod. There's a lot of clay/mud and I would rather not be in low going through that