Just did this mod, but took a different approach. Instead of wiring the RDL relay's LO switch input (pin 8) to constant 12V, I disconnected that wire and routed the RDL switch input (pin 4) also into pin 8. The RDL switch now simultaneously tells the RDL relay that you're in LO and the switch is ON. In other words, both inputs go to 12V when the switch is turned to ON.
Here's the wiring diagram for 1998-2001 LCs showing the mod.
Here's how-to:
Unplug the RDL relay connector. It's the small black box behind the passenger footwell trim up against the firewall.
Using a pick slightly raise the pin retention tab on the connector (below left). You need to release wires 4 & 8 by moving the small plastic tabs within the connector (below center). Lift up the tabs with the pick while gently pulling on the wires and they'll slide right out.
I had some connector pins lying around from my radio upgrade, so I used one of those to jumper from pin 4 to pin 8. You can cut the black-with-blue-stripe wire and use its pin if you need to, just be sure to tape off the bare end of wire. Either way, tape off the black-with-blue-stripe wire.
Solder the second pin to the green-with-red-stripe wire (pin 4) and re-insert the spiced wires into pins 4 & 8. Done! Now your RDL can be actuated in any transfer case position.
EDIT: If you prefer to use a T-tap you would:
1 - Cut the black-with-red-stripe wire (pin 8) leaving enough length at the connector to go to a T-tap.
2 - Tape off the bare end of that wire in the wire harness.
3 - Connect that wire stub from pin 8 to the green-with-red-stripe wire (pin 4) using the T-tap.
Here's the wiring diagram for 1998-2001 LCs showing the mod.
Here's how-to:
Unplug the RDL relay connector. It's the small black box behind the passenger footwell trim up against the firewall.
Using a pick slightly raise the pin retention tab on the connector (below left). You need to release wires 4 & 8 by moving the small plastic tabs within the connector (below center). Lift up the tabs with the pick while gently pulling on the wires and they'll slide right out.
I had some connector pins lying around from my radio upgrade, so I used one of those to jumper from pin 4 to pin 8. You can cut the black-with-blue-stripe wire and use its pin if you need to, just be sure to tape off the bare end of wire. Either way, tape off the black-with-blue-stripe wire.
Solder the second pin to the green-with-red-stripe wire (pin 4) and re-insert the spiced wires into pins 4 & 8. Done! Now your RDL can be actuated in any transfer case position.
EDIT: If you prefer to use a T-tap you would:
1 - Cut the black-with-red-stripe wire (pin 8) leaving enough length at the connector to go to a T-tap.
2 - Tape off the bare end of that wire in the wire harness.
3 - Connect that wire stub from pin 8 to the green-with-red-stripe wire (pin 4) using the T-tap.
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