Rear Heat- solid line replacement

MyTwoToys

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I have a 1997 Limited 40 Anniversary with a rear heater hose that is starting to leak. I did some research and wanted to confirm these part numbers are correct.

87248 and 87248Y. Are they even still available?

The lines are located at the rear of the engine bay on the firewall and go down along the transmission and and then connect to the rubber hose that connects to the heater unit located under the passenger seat.

As always, thanks for the assistance.

Rear Heater Hose Leak.jpg


Rear Heat_Engine Bay Location.jpg


Rear Heat_Underside Connection by Transmission.jpg


Rear Heat_Under Seat Connection.jpg
 
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Did you call your dealership? No one here sells parts. Seriously, that's faster than waiting for someone to look up parts for you...
1662565687050.png
 

MyTwoToys

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Thanks, Was just trying to see if the part numbers I had were correct.
 
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I’d like to know as well what the P/Ns are as well. Mine rusted out years ago, I would like to install some new ones. Will be heading to the local dealer this week to pick up some parts I ordered earlier this and will check with them as well.
 
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I’d like to know as well what the P/Ns are as well. Mine rusted out years ago, I would like to install some new ones. Will be heading to the local dealer this week to pick up some parts I ordered earlier this and will check with them as well.
The Toyota and Lexus parts are the same.
 
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Thanks, Was just trying to see if the part numbers I had were correct.
You can fabricate them yourself. All you need is tubing and a cheap tubing bender. The 80 series OEM hoses are not available, but there are OEM 100 series hoses of the same size, which are available.
 
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Was just at the dealer. Both parts (solid pipe pieces) are available, but the front set that runs down the firewall is on back order. I just got the P/N for rear set of pipes. P/N 87209C. It lists for CAN$335, and the front set lists for CAN$445. Ouch!
 

MyTwoToys

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Ouch is right, holy cow. Looks like I will be fabricating something myself or I may take the advice of Malleus and look at the 100 series ones and see if I can adapt them.
 

jfz80

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Prepare to pull the motor or drop the transmission. Those won’t be wiggled into place without exercising one of those options. I believe Landtank or others have posted on a soft line replacement before.
 
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I replaced mine with heater hose, ran it along side the frame tucked up. Left the old rotting lines in place and simply bypassed them. It has held up this way for 6 years so far without issue.
 

MyTwoToys

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Sounds like the way to go for me
 
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@b16

Do you have photos showing the routing of the rear heater hoses
you installed to bypass the original rear pipes?
 
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For sure you cannnot install the ones that run down the firewall with the engine/trans in the way. This is because they are joined together, but I thought if you separate them it could be done. I think I replaced the rear set already once with an OEM part back in the day, and it too rusted out after several years. I have a set a buddy gave me when we scrapped an HDJ81 he purchased for just the engine/trans. They were a bit rusty, but might be worth using if I can still find them. There is no way I’m paying those dealer prices for those pieces. If you still want to use solid tube, I’m sure one could easily just use copper tube and some fittings to replicate the OEM part.
 

JOFS

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I used rubber heater hose for at least 10 years with no issue. In Maine I want to keep the rear heat and this has worked well for me.

John
 
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Ouch is right, holy cow. Looks like I will be fabricating something myself or I may take the advice of Malleus and look at the 100 series ones and see if I can adapt them.
To be clear, the 100 series parts I was referring to are the hoses at the ends of the tubing. You'd have to make the tubing to suit. I'd use steel, if it was me. Tubing that size will bend, with a bender, as easily as copper, and won't be subject to damage the way copper would. Also, the mounting tabs are brazed onto the tubing. You can remove and reuse them. All you need are a cheap bender and beading tool; you don't want to try to seal the hoses without a bead. The cooling system is pressurized.

IIRC, the tubing is 17-mm OD. I never measured the wall but I wouldn't get anything much larger than 1.3-mm.
 

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