Rear Drawer Build in Austin

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citadel

citadel

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Threads
211
Messages
1,010
Location
Dallas, TX
I have read all the threads I could find and now it is time to start... Just cant decide if I want to do LineX or carpet....

used Baltic Birch and also used Liquid Nails on all pieces then used countersunken wood screws to ensure max strength.

Will be ordering slides this week.

Also decided on a 10" rear compartment that can be accessed from the top of the box.

The 3 designs I am leveraging are 619Toy's, Charleston's and Zane's.

~ final dimension: 44"W X 42"L X 9.5" H
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The Lee Valley ones are very nice. I had a set for a while when I thought I was going to start building a set of drawers. They are well made heavy duty slides. The only downside I found is that each slide is 3/4" thick, so you are going to lose 3" of drawer width.
 
any votes on Line-X or matching carpet
 
Line-X top and carpeted sides was one of the options I thought about when considering a drawer system. The Line-X will take a beating from whatever you throw in there on top, and the carpet would make it look finished/integrated with the truck (if you care about the aesthetics of it!)
 
was concerned Line-X would be tough on the skin and tough to keep clean
 
no prob
 
I vote Carpet. While Line-X is awesome stuff, it sure sucks when you rub your skin accross it. However, you could get on eof those DIY kits and if does not turn out you could always carpet over it. Have you thoght about lining Line-xing the inside of the drawers?
 
If you spend the $ for real LineX you will not be disappointed, it is easy to clean (get the brow to match the 40th or tan) and it is not realy that hard on skin. If you use somthing eals you will be disappointed, everything eals that I have triad is hard on the skin. LineX is also lieghter then most carpets.

citadel said:
was concerned Line-X would be tough on the skin and tough to keep clean
Click to expand...
 
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progress made.... finished cutting top. in process of sanding everything after a little bondo work to get some of the curves tighter. Will be painting the entire box black, then will cover with stock brown matching carpet.
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painted flat black, purchased tie downs, cut out sheet metal for tie down braces (for bottom side of drawer top)... need to send tie downs out for powder coating tomorrow.....

not yet set on how I want to anchor the box to the stock floor bolt holes... I may use a sheet of metal and run the bolts through them from the inside of the box to add structural strength to the box to ensure it doesnt ever move..

btw... the stock floor bolt holes take M10-1.25 pitch bolts.... available at most AutoZone stores

I am concerned about trying to get the drawers to ride above the bolt heads...

what have others done to address this?

the base of the box is 1/2" baltic birch.
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Looking good. Anxious for more progress.
 
Do you have any way of securing the drawer to the floor? In the event of a roll or crash I would hate to have one of these coming at me.
 
citadel said:
I am concerned about trying to get the drawers to ride above the bolt heads...

what have others done to address this?

the base of the box is 1/2" baltic birch.
Click to expand...

My drawers ride on 1/4" UHMWPE strips instead of $$$ drawer slides.

You can see them here early on in the construction of my storage box:
StorageBox006-1.jpg


I simply cut out a portion of the plastic slides to give room for the bolt heads & washers to fit. The 1/4" material is just thick enough that the bolt heads sit below the surface of the plastic:
StorageBox052-1.jpg


The final result:
StorageBox072.jpg
 
Now, I am giving away trade secrets:flipoff2:

Notice how the bottom of these drawers is datowed in up 1/2" above the bottom of the drawer side. This provides strength for the drawer and a space for the bolts. Also having the drawer slide on the the 1/2" edges of the drawer sides means less friction when opening and closing the drawers.
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