theferg
SILVER Star
Lock sleeve on shaft.
Rear axle service - FF (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nakman
- Start date
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sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Doug, Ben pretty much showed the pictures and it explains it. If you pulled the shaft with the locker unlocked and the lock sleeve did not drop out you are lucky. It is that piece (which I called a dog gear) that we had to cut off. If the splines twist between the lock sleeve and the diff you are hosed and you can not get the axle out. Mine was the 2nd case that I know off. Just a note for the hard core guys. Would not really happen on a stockish truck with moderate tire sizes.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Also, just fyi for those that was wondering about retrofitting a elocker, the shaft that has the lock sleeve on it, is the one that needs to be replaced. On a non lockered FF axle the splines are shorter.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
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- 2,866
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- Broomfield, Colorado
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- www.gamiviti.com
- Thread starter
- #24
Yup that's the one, the lock sleeve! Funny I looked last night and my FSM neglected to mention this as well... Dang I learned something today after all. So to recap, the answer is YES lock your rear locker prior to pulling the axle on the short side when performing a rear axle service.
Nothing like learning how to do the job after you've finished... thanks everybody.
Nothing like learning how to do the job after you've finished... thanks everybody.
I have mentioned before that the diff should be locked before axle shaft removall.
Nobody ever listens to me
Nobody ever listens to me
Cbizkit, that's cause you're on vaca and we don't even listen to ya when you're here. 
No go knock back a few.
No go knock back a few.
OK...
I believe you guys, and will update my site so that it reflects this new info (sorry C-Dan... I don't remember anyone saying this before
)
But.... ??? is the function of the front locker different in that it does not need to be locked? In the manual it seems to be the same design and open shift fork.
I ask, because I drove about 5 hours with my axles/birfs/driveline out and didn't have a problem getting them back in. If the *lock sleeve* was going to move or fall out, it should have in D.C. traffic at least!
I believe you guys, and will update my site so that it reflects this new info (sorry C-Dan... I don't remember anyone saying this before
)But.... ??? is the function of the front locker different in that it does not need to be locked? In the manual it seems to be the same design and open shift fork.
I ask, because I drove about 5 hours with my axles/birfs/driveline out and didn't have a problem getting them back in. If the *lock sleeve* was going to move or fall out, it should have in D.C. traffic at least!
- Joined
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- 2,866
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- Broomfield, Colorado
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- www.gamiviti.com
- Thread starter
- #28
I'm sorry Dan I promise to be a better listener in the future.. geez fwiw, those new seals fit like a dream- parts guy musta got lucky that day, eh?
and Chris that's funny, never even thought about the front until now.. must be a different setup since I'd bet front axle jobs probably outnumber the rears by 3:1, don't you think? Show of hands, how many of you have done your front axle? now, who's done the back? alright maybe closer to 2:1, still.. But has anyone ever heard this come up before when doing the front... just don't knock that spot welded washer thingy loose, that's all.
fwiw, those new seals fit like a dream- parts guy musta got lucky that day, eh? and Chris that's funny, never even thought about the front until now.. must be a different setup since I'd bet front axle jobs probably outnumber the rears by 3:1, don't you think? Show of hands, how many of you have done your front axle? now, who's done the back? alright maybe closer to 2:1, still.. But has anyone ever heard this come up before when doing the front... just don't knock that spot welded washer thingy loose, that's all.
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=13520;start=msg125812#msg125812 date=1080067552]
I have mentioned before that the diff should be locked before axle shaft removall.
Nobody ever listens to me
[/quote]
Sorry Cdan, did you say something ??? I wasnt listening
I have mentioned before that the diff should be locked before axle shaft removall.
Nobody ever listens to me
[/quote]
Sorry Cdan, did you say something ??? I wasnt listening
So after quite a time in the search field I found what I wasn't looking for, but good info none the less. (SHOULD PROBABLY BE IN THE FAQs)
In my on going persuit of ridding myself of the deceleration rumbling gremlins, that seemed to replicate as bad as the ones from the movie just in the last 2 weeks, I decided to once again check for slop in the rear bearings...sure enough, there was a bit in both wheels. So I tore into it.
I don't have the stock lockers...do I have this "lock sleve" in mine? Should I have engaged the ARB's? No difference I guess in my case as both axles are standing in the corner of my garage at this moment and the pains of reinstall will be seen later...but just for future reference and for others.
Both locking nuts were VERY loose...I could actually finger tighten them both still when I first removed the two screws. DS was completely washed out of all grease, but the PS was full of some pretty nasty black grease still. So am I seeing this right...that little oil seal fails next to the axle shaft and the diff fluid and oil mix, or is there another seal somewhere? Can you remove the rear spindle or is it a permenant part of the axle housing?
Thanks...
In my on going persuit of ridding myself of the deceleration rumbling gremlins, that seemed to replicate as bad as the ones from the movie just in the last 2 weeks, I decided to once again check for slop in the rear bearings...sure enough, there was a bit in both wheels. So I tore into it.
I don't have the stock lockers...do I have this "lock sleve" in mine? Should I have engaged the ARB's? No difference I guess in my case as both axles are standing in the corner of my garage at this moment and the pains of reinstall will be seen later...but just for future reference and for others.
Both locking nuts were VERY loose...I could actually finger tighten them both still when I first removed the two screws. DS was completely washed out of all grease, but the PS was full of some pretty nasty black grease still. So am I seeing this right...that little oil seal fails next to the axle shaft and the diff fluid and oil mix, or is there another seal somewhere? Can you remove the rear spindle or is it a permenant part of the axle housing?
Thanks...
yep, it's the oil seal.
check out my site for a detailed description and pics.
Then you'll understand
http://www.iluvrocks.com/fzj80_rear_bearing.htm
check out my site for a detailed description and pics.
Then you'll understand
http://www.iluvrocks.com/fzj80_rear_bearing.htm
The factory diff lock should be placed in the lock position before removing the RH axle shaft. Not doing so risks having the dog clutch sleeve fall out. This does not apply to a non-lock axle or ARB's.
The rear spindle is part of the rear axle housing.
The rear spindle is part of the rear axle housing.
Chris...thanks, I already read your info...very good BTW
Thanks Dan, where are you BTW...tried to call the office 4-5 times and just get your VMAIL. You on vacation?
Rookie2...read what Dan wrote
Thanks Dan, where are you BTW...tried to call the office 4-5 times and just get your VMAIL. You on vacation?
Rookie2...read what Dan wrote
[quote author=Safado link=board=2;threadid=13520;start=msg168706#msg168706 date=1086302963] Dan, where are you BTW...tried to call the office 4-5 times and just get your VMAIL. You on vacation?
[/quote]
I've been here all dang day, we are in a major building renovation and I can't hear the phone ring half the time
Why didn't you leave me a message?
I will always call you right back 8)
[/quote]
I've been here all dang day, we are in a major building renovation and I can't hear the phone ring half the time
Why didn't you leave me a message?
I will always call you right back 8)
What's the easiest way to lock the rear when on hard pavement and not able to do the sharp turns ect...
Can I just jack up one side and engage the locker and then turn one wheel by hand to lock?
Can I just jack up one side and engage the locker and then turn one wheel by hand to lock?
Dan,
I was busy myself, constantly away from the phone, so I just decided to call back. I'll call you tomorrow.
I was busy myself, constantly away from the phone, so I just decided to call back. I'll call you tomorrow.
Skillet
Skillet
I know this is an old thread but I keep running into sh*t that I did not know about when all I wanted to do is put new f*cking breaks on.
So, I have lockers and did not lock them before I pulled the short shaft because I did not know about this issue.
When I went to put it back on, it did not want to go in all the way at first but after messing with it for a moment, it went in.
Is it possibel that this "Dogear" from the locker fell to the wrong side of the shaft? So when I go to lock it up the next time, it trashes my rear end?
Will it ever end?
So, I have lockers and did not lock them before I pulled the short shaft because I did not know about this issue.
When I went to put it back on, it did not want to go in all the way at first but after messing with it for a moment, it went in.
Is it possibel that this "Dogear" from the locker fell to the wrong side of the shaft? So when I go to lock it up the next time, it trashes my rear end?
Will it ever end?
Skillet
Skillet
Skillet said:
Anyone? Anyone? Before I start my rig?
