RCV 300M Rear Axle Cone Washer Issue

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Gerrha said:
If your studs were the original version, yours would not be proud - and would be ok. As the lower photo in NeverFinis's #31 post shows, the studs now supplied by Toyota for the rear have been changed to the studs used in the front, which are longer. He did not mention when that change occurred.
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The ones I removed where the longer shoulder so must have been replaced at some point, as with the ARP that I installed. They both worked with the RCV and factory flanges.

All the studs I have on hand have the same shoulder length(longer) as shown in your drawing earlier, this is where the confusion is. Why do studs with the same shoulder length sit in drastically different depths?

You said that you where installing them finger tight, what happens if you double nut them, blue loctite and torque them in?

If it was me, I would machine a light press fit C/B into the hub, but I have a machine shop at my disposal. Non machine shop Matt would torque the stud in and stack some washers and run it without second thought.
 
ThreeEyedBandit said:
The ones I removed where the longer shoulder so must have been replaced at some point, as with the ARP that I installed. They both worked with the RCV and factory flanges.

All the studs I have on hand have the same shoulder length(longer) as shown in your drawing earlier, this is where the confusion is. Why do studs with the same shoulder length sit in drastically different depths?

You said that you where installing them finger tight, what happens if you double nut them, blue loctite and torque them in?

If it was me, I would machine a light press fit C/B into the hub, but I have a machine shop at my disposal. Non machine shop Matt would torque the stud in and stack some washers and run it without second thought.
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I guess there is still somewhat of a mystery here. I don't have a machine shop, but plenty are close. The thing is, I dread the thought of tearing down the axles again to get the hubs off for the C/B. I have ordered the high-profile flange nuts, which I do plan to take to a machine shop for a 3-mm depth C/B at 8-mm diameter. I am hopeful that will solve the problem.
 
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Gerrha said:
I guess there is still somewhat of a mystery here. I don't have a machine shop, but plenty are close. The thing is, I dread the thought of tearing down the axles again to get the hubs off for the C/B. I have ordered the high-profile flange nuts, which I do plan to take to a machine shop for a 3-mm depth C/B at 8-mm diameter. I am hopeful that will solve the problem.
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Sounds like a solid plan. Also get some hardened M8 washers as a backup, if they are on hand then you won't need them :bang:
 
Counterboring extra tall nuts sounds like a straightforward solution.
 
IMO you need to run at least a couple of dowel pins to do that you need to pull the hubs back off.
Once you do that may as well run them all and have the studs counter bored.
In my mind it make no sense to run chrome Molly RCV axles and no pins. 😎
 
Broski said:
IMO you need to run at least a couple of dowel pins to do that you need to pull the hubs back off.
Once you do that may as well run them all and have the studs counter bored.
In my mind it make no sense to run chrome Molly RCV axles and no pins. 😎
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Well, if it needs to be done... Has there been a consensus regarding the potential misalignment of the dowel pins? I read a lengthy previous post in which this was discussed back and forth with no real conclusion.
 
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