Random no crank (1 Viewer)

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Dec 9, 2006
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Centennial, CO
So a few times randomly, my car won't start cranking when I turn the key, lasts anywhere from 2-20 minutes before it starts to turn over. Kept figuring it was the starter. Happened again this morning after starting fine at the house and making it to the gas station, but it finally threw some codes: P0335, P0340, and P0385. Also, sometimes when it's starting it seems to have a little clanky hiccup right before firing up. Probably related but I'm not sure. Anybody else have this issue?

P0335 = crankshaft pos. sensor A
P0340 = camshaft pos. sensor A
P0385 = crankshaft pos. sensor B
 

LINUS

Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
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Mar 29, 2003
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PNW - WA
Any chance you have enough wear on the ignition to the point it's where your problems are originating?
Over some 200K+ on your tumbler or so, with alot of it being city miles/accelerated wear?

I'd start there with a multimeter myself. That's my blind guess since the codes you posted seem like they point to a larger issue I've yet to experience.

Maybe @landtank can give some insight to those codes meaning something he sees - otherwise I'd be checking continuity through the ignition myself to see if you have a simple problem in the ignition tumbler.
 
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Apache Junction, AZ
I have the same issue, it doesn't happen always. I looked into it on the web and found a ton of issues people think it is. I started with the relay, took it apart and tested it. The relay tested fine. I think a lot of starting problems are that relay. The issue my truck has seems to be the plunger on the starter. Cooling it doesn't help but a quick strike with anything hard does. The first thing I would do is find your starting relay and test it.
If that is fine make sure your grounds are great. Now look at the starter.
 

landtank

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not sure about the codes since they would indicate a problem while the engine is turning over. I've seen problems with the nuetral safety switch where the linkage binds a little from age and not making contact occasionally.
 
Joined
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Centennial, CO
Thank you everyone for the responses. It's been starting fine ever since and the weather's been pretty cold so I haven't really looked around. When it happens again I'll go further into the troubleshooting
 
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
234
Location
Centennial, CO
Any chance you have enough wear on the ignition to the point it's where your problems are originating?
Over some 200K+ on your tumbler or so, with alot of it being city miles/accelerated wear?

I'd start there with a multimeter myself. That's my blind guess since the codes you posted seem like they point to a larger issue I've yet to experience.

Maybe @landtank can give some insight to those codes meaning something he sees - otherwise I'd be checking continuity through the ignition myself to see if you have a simple problem in the ignition tumbler.

I believe the contacts in the ignition are still up to par. It kills the dash lights and slightly drops battery voltage when trying to start, just like usual, but it doesn't turn over.
 
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Jan 12, 2008
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West MI near GVSU
I had this issue too. I relaced the starter and it was fixed. Lots of people here say to rebuild your starter. I wanted the warranty.
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
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Tallahassee, FL
I found this thread upon having the same problem: P0335 and P0340 and no start (but cranks strong). Seeing these codes, it doesn't make any sense to start out looking in the direction of the starter. It was as if the coil wire had come off (but it was in and clean connection, both ends).

The camshaft position sensor (CMP) and crankshaft position sensor BOTH go through the SAME connector on top of the distributor. This happened to me twice today and both times I fixed it by unplugging and replugging that connector a number of times (did nothing else, then started right up). I COULD have condensation on those hall effect sensors (inside the distributor, so open the cap to dry out), but most likely, I have a little corrosion at the connector on top of the distributor that I need to also clean and coat with dielectric grease.

I recently unplugged this connector to change the distributor o-ring (as well as the VC gasket, front crank oil seal, oil pump cover, etc -so a few connectors have been re-connected recently). This is the first time that connector has been unsealed in many years, so that should be a big clue!
 
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Olathe, KS, USA
I found this thread upon having the same problem: P0335 and P0340 and no start (but cranks strong). Seeing these codes, it doesn't make any sense to start out looking in the direction of the starter. It was as if the coil wire had come off (but it was in and clean connection, both ends).

The camshaft position sensor (CMP) and crankshaft position sensor BOTH go through the SAME connector on top of the distributor. This happened to me twice today and both times I fixed it by unplugging and replugging that connector a number of times (did nothing else, then started right up). I COULD have condensation on those hall effect sensors (inside the distributor, so open the cap to dry out), but most likely, I have a little corrosion at the connector on top of the distributor that I need to also clean and coat with dielectric grease.

I recently unplugged this connector to change the distributor o-ring (as well as the VC gasket, front crank oil seal, oil pump cover, etc -so a few connectors have been re-connected recently). This is the first time that connector has been unsealed in many years, so that should be a big clue!
Someone else recently had this issue and it was a broken wire in the plug on the distributor as stated. The plug is located where a board or "wear" can occur when doing other service items on the truck.
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
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Tallahassee, FL
Someone else recently had this issue and it was a broken wire in the plug on the distributor as stated. The plug is located where a board or "wear" can occur when doing other service items on the truck.

GOOD CATCH! You just reminded me, I DID SEE the grey protective vinyl sleeve for the wires exiting this connector had worn some little holes in it from the throttle cable riding on top of it (common, even with it being kept up with the brackets). I COULD have a problem with those wires, so I'll pull back that sleeve to inspect the wires.

Thanks, BILT!
 
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GOOD CATCH! You just reminded me, I DID SEE the grey protective vinyl sleeve for the wires exiting this connector had worn some little holes in it from the throttle cable riding on top of it (common, even with it being kept up with the brackets). I COULD have a problem with those wires, so I'll pull back that sleeve to inspect the wires.

Thanks, BILT!
This is the thread that addresses what he went through to track down the problem.

 
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
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Tallahassee, FL
If you're throwing those codes, you should! It DOES take some cranking time for the computer to recognize those codes and trigger the CEL. Even after fixing it, unless you clear the codes with your OBD2 reader, you should have that CEL stay on for quite some time.
 
Joined
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If you're throwing those codes, you should! It DOES take some cranking time for the computer to recognize those codes and trigger the CEL. Even after fixing it, unless you clear the codes with your OBD2 reader, you should have that CEL stay on for quite some time.
Having a CEL with the key in the RUN position only indicates that the ECU is in a start condition and has all needed inputs. It has nothing to do with any codes that have ben set.
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
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Tallahassee, FL
This is the thread that addresses what he went through to track down the problem.


This is a good thread, too. Lots of pertinent info! Thanks... still reading it.
 

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