Rainman's Brake Lines

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Look at the chart. What material and fittings do you want. Steel with stepped nuts are 45.93 and 45.55.
$91.48

Read a few posts back. I don't believe in bending steel lines just to ship them because they won't look the same once straightened. (The NiCopp lines most likely could gently be straightened to look okay.) I can make shipping costs a bit better for those by putting a union in line for both of them under the brake booster. Only a few bucks more for parts.
 
Woo hoo - congrats RainEy. And your first customer too in FJ401978!

Better put the prices in Post #1. Oh and a key for those :censor:ed up part numbers you know by heart. Putting the chart and key there will save you a lot of time.

My opinion on the junction vs bent lines - ask each customer. Answer prob depends on cost diff to make and ship for most folks. Another deciding factor would be what the junction looks like and if it needs reinforcement. Prototype pics will help.

I think having the choice is awesome.
 
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I've updated the image for the price list but it may be lost on the pages gone by. So here it is so you who are keeping up will see it. I may post it in the very first post but not sure if I should yet.

Any questions?










(old chart has been deleted. Obsolete)
 
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I dont see an issue with a union in the lines that are too long to ship. Yes its another leak source but in the scheme of things it really isn't going to make a difference. Rainey I will be wanting a set for my 76 FJ40 in the near future as I want to get the tub painted first. Probably in another 3 or 4 weeks.
 
Ozark crawler said:
I bought some of that new copper nickel lines dot approved and can bend with your hands. Napa carries all the fittings easy job.
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Yes, the lines are soft enough to bend them with your hands but hands don't do a nice job as well as tools do. But to each his own. I do find making these pretty easy but not everyone is "bent" the same way. I hope you do a great job with your lines.
 
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shipmag said:
I dont see an issue with a union in the lines that are too long to ship. Yes its another leak source but in the scheme of things it really isn't going to make a difference. Rainey I will be wanting a set for my 76 FJ40 in the near future as I want to get the tub painted first. Probably in another 3 or 4 weeks.
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Thanks @shipmag . I think I should be able to get yours done around then. I will be going out of town twice between now and then but I'm sure we can work it out. If there's not an order for the firewall lines before yours that I make, I may use yours as an example for the thread to show how I make them and (for the time being) ship them.
 
My compliments to Rainman and Mudders' responses! After chasing air for two days in my 66 fj40 after replacing master , soft lines and all wheel cylinders, i am going to replace the current hard lines, unions and banjo fittings if I can find them. I realized after several trips to auto parts stores that the stock line nuts won't thread into the OEM single master(took it with me).To my knowledge, my lines are original.Unfortunately I don't know a 9mm vs a 10mm or stepped vs threaded,etc. In short I am brake stupid. I am looking for pre-fab and SOR is the only place I can find. 1) Any suggestions for sources for pre-fab lines, unions/junctions, banjo fittings, etc? 2)What size/type male fittings are correct for a 66 single master? If I have to go SOR, I'll be glad to forward you the older lines as patterns for earlier models. Any responses welcome! Thanks
 
notaclue said:
My compliments to Rainman and Mudders' responses!...
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Thanks, Not', Ahahahaaha...

I only have knowledge abut the earlier lines from reading posts on Mud. The most knowledgable Mudder I can think of is local to me. Sort of. North of Nashville, @vtgbeemer has an early FJ40. It may be a '69 but I hope pinging him here will raise him up and put his input to work here. From what I know about brake systems and later model Cruisers, I'm a bit surprised that you couldn't fit a 9mm fitting into your MC. The entire system should be 9mm. The later model Cruisers stopped using banjo fittings altogether so that is different. (Unless they started using them again after about '78 so correct me if I'm wrong.)

As far as you sending me your lines. That would be great! But! They would need to get here as straight as they were on the Cruiser before you removed them. Without having the whole truck, I'll have to rely on the fact that the lines are "perfect". That may be a very tall order. But we can talk about that another time.
 
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AND by the way, does anyone know where to find the replacement clamps called "Double R"? They're the line clamps on the firewall that hold two lines side-by-side. The part number is 90461-08191. I need some and would like to be able to supply new ones for those in need. I've found some that hold 3/16" and 1/4" but that won't do.

It's amazing hot the little crap takes up so much time...
 
I would think the 3/16 clamps would work if your using 3/16 nickel line?
 
shipmag said:
I would think the 3/16 clamps would work if your using 3/16 nickel line?
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Yes they would. I'm trying to find the ones that are just like the OEM clamps. My patterns are counting on that.
 
TADA!
I've finally had time to finish up the first kit. Eeeever so close on the FJ40 build and the first kit at the same time so I finally decided to get this done for good. Only minor adjustments for the next set but I've got sheets of step by step instructions for the firewall lines and a jig for all the bends at the firewall itself.

I've decided to submit to the masses and figured out a way to make one single bend in the firewall lines to make them shippable. (That along with hidden unions under the brake booster.) I'll make simple instructions for a few things including how to rid of the extra large diameter bend and hopefully end up with a straight line.

In the picture below, because of the point of view, some of the bends are not visible. All of these will fit perfectly onto an FJ40 without having to "recreate the wheel." I will say however, installing the two firewall lines is like threading a needle with hockey gloves on. It's doable but a bit tough. You have to disconnect a few minor items.
77 kit.webp
 
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Good job sketching
 
Here's the clamp I'm looking for. Anybody have a source?

(Sorry for the crappy shot. I'm in a hurry.)

photo.webp
 
I actually landed on both of those sites the other day but didn't trust what it was without a description or picture.

The second site with the shot may work. I didn't try to contact them. I ran out of time.

Thanks for searching and posting.
 
Took this shot right before I installed this kit on my project truck. I'm very pleased with the ease of putting these lines on. The NiCopp is a dream to work with. I intentionally missed on a couple of lines to test how to handle this in case someone got a line that was a little off from me. (Not anticipated) but it was a breeze. Only issue could be length and that's pretty much taken care of the first minute of creating the lines. I'm in a huge rush for the next week I'll try to post pictures here and the build thread of the lines installed but i can't right now.

NiCopp kit.webp
 
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