Hey Guys - it's always some damn thing, and today it's the radiator. Got a crack at least a few inches long in the top tank above the seam. It's a 3 row brass unit I swapped in a number of years ago.
You guys ever get a radiator repaired locally? Seems like this might be the kind of failure that's amenable to repair.
Or recommendations for replacement - brass, aluminum, specific vendors?
I've seen positive comments about the aluminum Liland and Koyorad from RA, Ron Davis ($$$$), and of course, OEM. If a local shop exists that can do this, let me know... I have a seep on my 25kmi factory replacement that I'd like to repair.
Champion makes a good aluminum one for 60s. I say get a butane touch and solder and give a shot. Done a few myself, dont hold a constant heat to it or you could melt the factory solder. If that fails, here you go
I used Pott’s at one point about 10yrs ago for a radiator repair and had good luck. Not sure I’d do that in this case though, I’m a bit more picky with my 80 and would likely replace it.
I used Pott’s at one point about 10yrs ago for a radiator repair and had good luck. Not sure I’d do that in this case though, I’m a bit more picky with my 80 and would likely replace it.
Yea, that's just it - it's one thing getting stranded along the road or in a parking lot. Not sure I trust my soldering to get me back from the middle of Canyonlands
There is a Rad shop right down the street from my shop on valley st that does repairs. Looks like it blew a seam, that's prob repairable .Might want to do a hydrocarbon test on the anti freeze to make sure you didn't blow a head gasket. For a new one CRF is the go to . They still make brass rads. I can buy them off rock auto cheaper than I can from my wholesaler .
There is a Rad shop right down the street from my shop on valley st that does repairs. Looks like it blew a seam, that's prob repairable .Might want to do a hydrocarbon test on the anti freeze to make sure you didn't blow a head gasket. For a new one CRF is the go to . They still make brass rads. I can buy them off rock auto cheaper than I can from my wholesaler .
Ran a block test and didn't show any combustion gas leak!
Now just need to let it cool down to get to work. I got the TYC1918 recommended by the Arizona guys in the 80 forum. A little disappointed that the CSF "only" got me 12 years vs 20 on the OEM.
Ran a block test and didn't show any combustion gas leak!
Now just need to let it cool down to get to work. I got the TYC1918 recommended by the Arizona guys in the 80 forum. A little disappointed that the CSF "only" got me 12 years vs 20 on the OEM.
No, haven't looked into repairing it yet. Now that it's out, maybe I'll have someone take a look.
So radiator is swapped - was much more of a PITA then it had any right to be. The TYC1918 core is marginally thicker then the CSF - maybe 1/4" Doesn't impact the fit at all.
But now the next thing ... it won't start. Batteries were out for 2 days and the intake tube containing the MAF was off (but not unplugged). No codes. Cranks, but no start. I'll check that the MAF plug didn't come loose, but I figure the ECU would show a code if didn't see that.
I've been having an intermittent crank/no start problem since the day of the Christmas party (and early summer). This has been inexplicably - and temporarily - solved but pulling & re-inserting the fuel pump relay. But that's not helping now. Not sure if it's a new problem, or a progression of the existing problem. But I'm done for today.
Maybe figured out the intermittent no-start problem - bad fuel pump relay.
But I'm still not out of the woods on this cooling system yet.
Tried to drive it to work earlier this week, and had a stop along the way. Came out to a puddle of antifreeze under the front PS.
Didn't have time to deal with it, so drove it home and took the car. Monitored temp on OBD2 app, no problem.
Didn't get a chance to look at it until today. When I looked, the radiator was completely full but the overflow bottle was completely empty. Overflow had been half full.
My first thought was that the overflow bottle had a crack - when I pulled it out, there was antifreeze under it. But I cleaned it up, and let it set in the sink full of hot water and there's no sign of a leak.
I started the truck up and stuck the overflow hose into an old oil jug and let it come up to temperature, revving occasionally to 2K-3K. No coolant at all on the ground. But the 5qt oil jug is probably half full. Not sure how long I ran it. Here's a video of the overflow tube...
Any idea what's going on? Why it's pushing so much coolant out the overflow? Radiator cap is brand new from Toyota.
