Radiator Questions

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Solace in Solitude

Solace in Solitude

10 Year
Joined
Feb 4, 2014
Threads
125
Messages
7,185
Location
Las Vegas
Hi All,

As I mentioned in another thread, I have a couple of pinholes in the front-bottom of my radiator. While this may not be the original radiator to my 40, it's definitely been in my 40 for some time.

I'm very glad to have found this leak, in my garage, rather than out in the desert!

My initial thoughts were to take it to a radiator shop tomorrow morning - but, I also got a quote from cruiserdan (he says there are 5 radiators left in the US).

I'm new to 40's - my question:

Should I go with the Toyota radiator or should I buy some other aftermarket radiator?

Thanks!
 
Toyota radiator ... Get yours to be fixed when you get the time for a spare... I do have an aftermarket one... In the upper north east it lasts for about 15 yrs :)
 
Thanks JohnnyC!

I've never had a radiator fixed - always just replaced - so, I've never ran a 'fixed' radiator into remote areas - how dependable are they after they've been 'fixed'?
 
The dependability really depends on the original condition of the radiator. Your radiator shop, if they are worth their salt, should be able to give you a good analysis of the condition. If the pinholes are from damage, or defective soldering of a seam, I would think the shop would be able to adequately repair the rad. But, if it is a pinhole caused by corrosion it would be suspect to me. You really need to listen carefully to what the rad shop tells you.

If you have the funds for a new rad, and are not mechanically inclined (well prepared for trail side repairs) it might be better to get a new rad.

Don
 
Thanks Don!

I used to be mechanically inclined - many years ago - actually about the time my 40 was built!

Some of this I recall - some I don't and MUD-Brothers come thru for me!

Radiators I never did anything with - for $300 I would like the security of knowing I have a new radiator when I'm miles and miles from pavement.

But, I will take JohnnyC's advice and have it fixed and keep in my storage room, as a spare.

Dumb question (one of many) - if I swap the radiator out myself, do I need to do any sort of 'bleeding' of the cooling system or heaters?

Thanks!
 
I had my radiator recored for $450, I tried to buy a new one but apparently not available in Canada. A good re-core should be as good as a new one as long as your tanks are good but even if they aren't these can be brazed or silver soldered.
 
Get the new one. Your question about "bleeding" the radiator is not a dumb one. You definitely do need to burp the cooling system once you replace the radiator. These 2Fs can take a while to get all the air out, so watch it careful for overheating after you replace the radiator. To burp it, fill the coolant, then start it up, raise the front up on a jack or park on a hill and let it run until hot. You should have heater valve open to get any air through the heater lines. I like to raise and lower the front a few times while its running until all the air bubbles come out. Put radiator cap on and should be good to go. May have to do this a couple of times to get all the air out, just watch the temp gauge for the first couple of drives for overheating.
 
A good radiator re-core is probably better than a new after market, maybe even better than a new Toyota radiator...depends, of course, on the skill of your radiator shop. I had my original radiator re-cored twice. 55 radiators are harder to find than 40 radiators. Original radiators had a habit of having seams separating, I've not had that problem with re-cores.
 
Before any of this I would have the whole coolant system flushed(reverse) to make sure you have no lurking trash in the pathways.. Have the shop(or you) dump a couple of cups of Cascade dishwashing powder, dissolved in a gallon or 2 of hot water into the system. Run till up to op temp, and then some. Drain, refill w/demineralrized water--do the same. Drain, then refill with anti freeze.
 
I appreciate the re-core info - but, I think I'll go the new radiator route. Thanks!

cea1, you meant to include the red - right? "To burp it, fill the coolant, LEAVE RADIATOR CAP OFF, then start it up, raise the front up on a jack or park on a hill and let it run until hot. You should have heater valve open to get any air through the heater lines. I like to raise and lower the front a few times while its running until all the air bubbles come out. Put radiator cap on and should be good to go"

sggoat: I don't have anywhere to dump coolant, so I will take it have a shop install it and will ensure they follow your instructions: "Before any of this I would have the whole coolant system flushed(reverse) to make sure you have no lurking trash in the pathways.. Have the shop(or you) dump a couple of cups of Cascade dishwashing powder, dissolved in a gallon or 2 of hot water into the system. Run till up to op temp, and then some. Drain, refill w/demineralrized water--do the same. Drain, then refill with anti freeze." You are saying to do this BEFORE installing the new radiator - right?

Thanks! :cheers:
 
Good catch - yes, leave the radiator cap off when you are burping it. I usually put a tall funnel in the fill hole wrapped with a cloth to plug the hole the best I can, and leave it in while burping it. That way the coolant can rise up the funnel rather than spill all over, but its not necessary, you just get to clean up more mess without it.

Also, I agree on the radiator re-cores. A good shop can build a fine recored radiator, but when you can get the new Toyota radiator for cheaper that seems a fine way to go. Mine has the odd size A/C radiator in it, so new was not an option. I had it recored recently and should have done it a long time ago - not worth the hassle or $ to try and fix leaks or try to run an overly expensive supposedly good used one from SOR. Like most things on these rigs, may as well do it right the first time or you'll be doing it again soon enough.
 
The advice on the burping process was good. However, I went a step further and put in a "burp cap" in the highest point in the system, which for me happened to be in the heater hose that goes over the top of the head and down to the firewall. If my memory is any good, since it has been several years, the heater hose is 3/4" I.D. I went to Home Desperate (Depot) and got two hose barb to 3/4" male pipe thread fittings, a 3/4" tee, a 3/4" male pipe thread to garden hose adapter, and a garden hose cap, ALL in brass.

I put a 3/4" barb/3/4" pipe thread fitting in each end of the tee, and the 3/4" pipe thread/garden hose adapter in the leg of the tee. I installed this tee and fittings into the highest portion of the heater hose and clamped it in. The leg of the tee, with the garden hose adapter, must be pointing up to facilitate getting the air out. I was careful to use all brass parts since I didn't want to deal with rusting parts.

Carefully fill the cooling system until the liquid comes to the bottom of the radiator fill neck, giving air time to work it's way out. Then put the radiator cap on. This will leave the heater hose still empty since it is the highest point in the system. Now, carefully finish filling the system through the open hose adapter you just installed. Make sure you fill all the way to the top of this adapter, leaving no room for any air. Once this is done, install the garden hose cap. Make sure the hose cap has a rubber hose washer in it so the coolant heat won't damage the washer. Also, make sure the hose cap is installed real snug.

I've had this mod on my cruiser for several years now and it really does make it easier to burp the air out. At one point I was dealing with a leaking water pump, while I was away from home hunting, and having to constantly refill the system while waiting for the new pump I had ordered to arrive at the nearest town. This "burb cap" was extremely useful during all this.

Don
 
Yes-I would flush the engine cooling circuits before installing the new rad. Good time to do it and it's not that difficult, since the rad is out anyway.(thermostat needs to be out-check it also-may need to replace as well). Since you're doing this with the rad out, heat the water and cleaner beforehand so it dissolves well.
There's great advice here on burping-I'm printing it all.
pngunme said:
I appreciate the re-core info - but, I think I'll go the new radiator route. Thanks!

cea1, you meant to include the red - right? "To burp it, fill the coolant, LEAVE RADIATOR CAP OFF, then start it up, raise the front up on a jack or park on a hill and let it run until hot. You should have heater valve open to get any air through the heater lines. I like to raise and lower the front a few times while its running until all the air bubbles come out. Put radiator cap on and should be good to go"

sggoat: I don't have anywhere to dump coolant, so I will take it have a shop install it and will ensure they follow your instructions: "Before any of this I would have the whole coolant system flushed(reverse) to make sure you have no lurking trash in the pathways.. Have the shop(or you) dump a couple of cups of Cascade dishwashing powder, dissolved in a gallon or 2 of hot water into the system. Run till up to op temp, and then some. Drain, refill w/demineralrized water--do the same. Drain, then refill with anti freeze." You are saying to do this BEFORE installing the new radiator - right?

Thanks! :cheers:
Click to expand...
 
I keep hearing that there is a size difference between stock and stock A/C radiator of 1 1/2". My question is this, What are the two actual sizes of stock and A/C radiators?
 
:bang:
tmarx said:
:hhmm: .. or at least the centre of mounting bolt-hole to centre of mounting bolt-hole distance ?
Click to expand...
That's what I'm wondering tmarx, in which direction is the a/c radiator larger, in the width between the mounts,or in the actual thickness of the radiator from front to back.
My 1975 fj40 had a/c when bought from PO in 1981, but only had the front coil mounted to the front of the radiator, there was not a/c head unit mounted to the motor, so I'm wondering if the PO put in an aftermarket unit, or if it had a factory unit, which then would make mine an a/c type.
I only ask this because mine is leaking from rusty outside fins, and I'm looking for a new one.:bang::cheers:
 
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