Pulled the tie rod boots to replace the inner tie rods, and fluid dumped out. Correct in assuming it's new rack time?

[Obioban]

If so, what's the way to go for my 11/05 production date truck?

Per partsouq, my rack is PN 4425060120... really hoping to avoid spending a grand on this.

 

[Aracobuilt]

You could rebuild yours eventhough its probably not worth your time or labor cost if your going to pay someone to do it. From experience the aftermarket steering racks start to leak after a year or two. It all depends on how long you plan on keeping your vehicle.

 

[Obioban]

Does rebuilding it using the toyota seal kit, done properly, hold up? Or does something about failing cause damage to the metal bits?

 

[Trapper50cal]

I got a reman-ed unit from a Toyota dealer in Denver while on sale and shelled out about $675 but there was a $150 core charge that needed to be settled.
I would classify it as a little stiff but not leaking and still operating properly without any groaning or wander. connected to 555 Sankai steering ends.
That was bought in 2023.

I had a professional Land Cruiser restorer put it in though. Don't remember what the tab was for that.

 

[Bisho]

It depends on how much fluid came out, and how long it’s been there. I discovered the same thing on my 2000 at 238k miles. About a quarter cup of fluid came out. I flushed the fluid and added AT-205. It weeped fluid after, but I didn’t need to replace the rack until about 285k, and that was because the bushings were shot.

I toyed with rebuilding, but decided it was a poor risk/reward ratio. I installed a Cardone unit - at the time $350 but last I checked over $500. It’s been great for the last 50k miles (with a lot of off-road), and going strong.

 

[excessive]

The steering rack job in the 100 is so difficult and tiem consuming that I would not risk doing the job more than once. I would recommend only an OEM new non-refurbished rack.

 

[TahoeZ]

Like Bisho, I flushed the fluid in mine twice and added half a bottle of AT-205. Waited a few weeks and then changed the boots and inner tie rods. Weeps some fluid but still going.

 

[2001LC]

Best is to remove & replace (R&R) with new OEM rack & pinion (R&P), correct P/N to VIN#.
New OEM R&P includes: New OEM boots & clamps. New OEM inner TRE, New OEM bushings (only way to get new OEM bushings).
Most times when R&P leaking at rack housing output (boots). Boots and inner TRE are shot or on the way out. Bushing are likely trashed also.

I tell people, we can live with a small leak.
3 issues with leak:

1. Fluid drop so low. Vane pump is damaged. Solution: R&R R&P or keep top-off.
2. Fluid soaks rubber bushing LCA, etc. and they get trashed. Solution: R&R R&P or keep oil cleaned off area on and near bushings.
3. Drips in driveway, can't live with. Solution: R&R R&P or keep pan under drip.

DIY resealing, is not practical, for most. Special tooling is needed. But one can take factory R&P, to a trusted rebuilder. Have them rebuild. But cost is about what new OEM LC R&P. But if VGRS R&P may make sense. But you'd likely get aftermarket bushings, TRE, boots and likely seals too.

Many op to save money. By using Toyota R&P in place of Lexus VGRS R&P found in the 03-07LX:
03-07 LX VGRS 44250-60120 (Old 44200-60120) R&P 03-07 LX new (Black paint).
03-07 Toyota R&P 44250-60100 (old 44200-60120) R&P 03-07 LC (Green Paint PS).

Best is LX R&P in LX with VGRS. But you'll not likely feel the difference with LC R&P (non VGRS). What's the difference between them: Well. IMHO is a slight variation in pinon to rack gearing. I've yet to confirm, by a side by side comparison. Some think, it's just the LX bushing are softer.

The heart of The VGRS system. Is a $3k device, under the dash. Call intermediate shaft #1 AKA: VGRS actuator.

Warning:
No matter which R&P you choose. It is very important. During removal of u-joint of intermediate shaft #2, that clamps onto pinons input shaft. Never pound intermediate shaft in direction of steering wheel. Doing so, can damage the VGRS actuator.

BTW:
If you replace. I'd be very interested in your old R&P, if it has the Black stripe of paint on RH side. I'd use it, to compare with LC R&P gearing. I'd then publish my findings in mud for all interested parties. As to difference in VGRS and NON R&P.

Note:
PS system, has just under 1qt capacity. So if AT-205 added, use no more than 1.5oz. It can be added, every 7 to 10 year period. In my experience. AT-205 will only slow at best, leaks at R&P output seal. Works much better, to stop leaks at pinon input shaft seal.

 

[jsloden]

If you're not losing much fluid I would definitely do a flush and add in a little at-205. You'll probably get some more life out of it. I purchased a remanned unit from the dealer and saved a few bucks. This was four or five years ago so I don't remember the exact amounts. It was a considerable amount though. Still going strong. I wouldn't recommend the cheapest thing you can find on rockauto though. It is a pain in the butt job. I was doing mine at the same time as the timing belt and exhaust manifold job though so that made it easier.

 

[LJE]

While I'll echo that the steering rack is a pain to get at, rebuilding mine was at least doable here in my garage without any special tooling beyond a bunch of long extensions and sockets of roughly the correct size to beat on things, along with a 3d printed tool to get the weird 8-sided internal nut off.

I used this video & the FSM:

 

[2001LC]

While I'll echo that the steering rack is a pain to get at, rebuilding mine was at least doable here in my garage without any special tooling beyond a bunch of long extensions and sockets of roughly the correct size to beat on things, along with a 3d printed tool to get the weird 8-sided internal nut off.

I used this video & the FSM:

Kudos.

I would strongly suggest any considering rebuilding a Rack & Pinion. Use the Toyota FSM. It has specific procedure including how to set preload what lubes to use and torque spec. SST sockets bellow, a must have, in setting preload.

OEM SST tools.

While

 

[LJE]

Kudos.

I would strongly suggest any considering rebuilding a Rack & Pinion. Use the Toyota FSM. It has specific procedure including how to set preload what lubes to use and torque spec. SST sockets bellow, a must have, in setting preload.

OEM SST tools.
View attachment 4067050View attachment 4067051View attachment 4067052
View attachment 4067053View attachment 4067059
While

I'd personally argue that you can set the preload just fine without the SSTs if you understand the intent of the procedure, have a reasonably well-equipped tool box, and some ingenuity. The SSTs are designed to make the job easy and straightforward for a mechanic - they're not the only way to perform the required procedures. The pipewrench-esque torque wrench adaptor would have been especially handy, but besides that & a tool to get the internal octagonal nut off & back on torqued correctly it's all pretty straight forward.

We'll see how long my rebuilt (original) rack lasts - it had 255K on it when I got the truck, and I've put another 10-12K on it since the rebuild (really, more of a 'reseal' since you're pretty much just replacing seals). Not a bad deal for (what I remember being) a $50 seal kit, but I also had my engine out at the time as I was restoring the truck, so it's not like it was multi-day endeavor. Of course, that also doesn't address inner/outer tierod wear either, so all those things need to be factored in.

I will say that I've also seen a new (not rebuilt) OEM rack that failed with less than a year on it - which is disappointing to say the least. Hopefully that was an isolated incident - especially because if you're doing the work yourself, I've found that typically no dealer is going to warranty that part (YMMV on that though).

One thing that I would also suggest anytime someone is swapping a steering rack on an older truck is to replace the intermediate shaft too - I had someone bring me their 100 series that had a dead spot in the steering wheel right in the center from 11:00 to 1:00 - they'd just had the rack replaced with a new OEM rack, and it was still present. I swapped the intermediate shaft & while I could only BARELY detect any play in it's u-joint (and that required putting it in a vice and really cranking on it), the new intermediate shaft took care of the issue and the steering was very tight and responsive. I would have never thought that the tiny amount of play could have created the dead spot that it did.