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Not to hijack but about the splash guards; Rick will the drivers side splash guard like the one pictured work if you have aftermarket exhaust header? I seem to have all the pieces, just not sure how or where they bolt up. Thanks again. Tom

Being that I don't run headers on my rig, I'm can't give a definitive answer.
 
Question

We are almost done buttoning up the engine. Have to do a little welding next time to relieve the crowding of the left front shock and the drag link, then start plumbing the brake lines.

Customer has a factory power steering gearbox and pump. I know that @SW20 and someone else worked out a deal to get Classic Tube to make a repro of the paper clip cooler line. What I need are some pics of where to drill the frame to anchor the cooler so we can take care of that BEFORE putting the bib back on.

If this hasn't been covered, and I should start a separate thread on where to drill the holes, someone please let me know.

TIA
Mark, I can get you measurements. You can get the power steering cooler lines from classic tube, but it will not have the clips. That is something to consider. The clips from a FJ60 line might work, but I am not sure.
 
Mark, I can get you measurements. You can get the power steering cooler lines from classic tube, but it will not have the clips. That is something to consider. The clips from a FJ60 line might work, but I am not sure.

Thanks for the loan of the tube Scott. It was a perfect match for the 78 frame. The threaded holes in front and behind the driver's side shock lined up with your mounting clips, and the side clip from the 60 is a match for width, just not the same offset. We have a welder that can take care of that. ;) Front crossmember is now drilled, and the repro tube ordered from Classic Tube.

For anyone looking for the Classic Tube PN, it is TYO-1001-OE. Price as of today was 89.99 in steel, 99.99 in stainless. Plus $$$ shipping.
 
Got back to the project yesterday. The cooler tube from Classic was/is a real piece of art, definitely more than I would have wanted to bend on my own. I had a spare cooler from an FJ60 at the shop that we pirated the clamps and insulators from, and I spent a good half hour slowly fine tuning the bends to get the assembly between the fender skirts and more or less laid down properly on the driver’s side framerail.

Here’s a couple of shots with a not-even-mocked up bib just to check for clearance to the hinge:
C443478A-DE4D-465A-8612-5685907CB599.jpeg
9A0F597E-FFA7-469B-8F7F-D8514C5C1E1B.jpeg
 
Unfortunately, the body shop also did not pay any attention to the rolled-out bottom lip on the bib, and when we went to install the bib hinge, we discovered there was no way to get the hinge aligned up with all 3 holes, and even if we did, the hinge would not lay flat against the face of the bib. 😥

Wediscussed the options and decided to press forward, literally. Using some blocks of wood to spread the pressure out and protect the paint, we put the bib in a bench vice.
E40F5387-F38B-4FF0-A6CA-0F1AE3263E16.jpeg

The angle from horizontal gives you an idea of what we were working with. We tested the pressure points on the bib, laid a towel over the bib, put some blocks of wood over the towel and judiciously applied the BFH. It was a little nerve-wracking, but with five well-placed blows the bib was now straight enough to put the hinge on. And no paint was damaged.

The whole experience took me back to when me and @Dusty 66 beat out the cowl and A pillar on @tlaporte troopie.
 
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