I’m sure that you are experimenting. I’d throw those fenders and hood up there before you weld anything in place. I had to push my engine quite a bit further back to clear the radiator.
Build Project Lockjaw-1973 Fj40 on Tons
- Thread starter bluehawk
- Start date
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- #522
Yes sir. Just trying to find the sweet spot for everything.
- Thread starter
- #523
Rolled the axles under it to see what everything looked like.
- Thread starter
- #524
I moved the engine back and that caused the trans mount to be back past the crossmember it is supposed to mount to.
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- #525
That bar at the output shaft is just a temporary brace while I was cutting brackets and tabs off.
I think the pivot on the frame choice is brilliant. It is disappointing there aren't any good "kits" out there for linking the FJ40 frame like there are for other models. Have always looked at the Motobilt stuff with lust (designed for jeeps), but never taken the risk to spend the money and try to make it work.
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- #527
Pretty close to 108” wheel base.
- Thread starter
- #528
@EWheeler, I almost pulled the trigger on a GenRight double triangulated rear crossmember. I talked to one of the guys a couple of times. I think it would work but would have to cut the ends off a bit to work. At $720+ if it didn’t work, I would be mad I spent the money on something I couldn’t use.
There was a bolt on coil suspension kit available about 25 years ago. Was it a Rancho kit?
I was wrong. This must have been a weld on kit and it’s the Warn XCL. Later sold to black diamond I think.
Thread 'Warn XCL link issue'
Warn XCL link issue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/warn-xcl-link-issue.47083/
It’s great to see some progress. I love that crossmember. I’m taking notes for next time.
Thread 'Warn XCL link issue'
Warn XCL link issue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/warn-xcl-link-issue.47083/
It’s great to see some progress. I love that crossmember. I’m taking notes for next time.
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- #531
All the brackets and body mounts cut off the old frame. We’ll see what I can use.
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- #532
Had to throw a link in there to see what it would look like. Moved the axle forward some, think my wheelbase is around 112” now
- Thread starter
- #533
I’m so stoked right now. I could stay out here for hours messing around with this project.
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Ditcherman
SILVER Star
In my world, everything revolves around the front fender and apron lengths, and where the bib sits, and how to package cooling and intercooling.
The front axle is then placed in the right spot in the fenders, and then motor/transmission mounts could be located then suspension built.
My only point is, as a complete newb to this, the apron and hood length dictated so much of my build.
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- #535
valid points @Ditcherman
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- #536
Ruff mock up with hood, valences, and front apron. May need to come back some. Thanks for the advice @Ditcherman
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- #537
I think the body needs to come forward about 3” or more
Are you planning on running stock fenders? Make sure to check your tire to fender clearance, too. I really wanted stock fenders on mine but I set my front axle too far forward and the tires wouldn’t clear. The tube fenders look pretty cool so I’m happy.
You are still doing 40” tires, right? This thing is looking awesome! I can’t wait to hear about how this feels going down the road. I bet it’s going to be a bit more steady than the more flexible 40 chassis.
- Thread starter
- #539
Hey Mike. Yes I am still going to run 40" tires.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I think that looks great, but if you have the room to come forward it seems like the thing to do to use it I guess.
My Griffin radiator is 3", and the fans are another 2", and the ac condenser is 3/4".
That's how I've been for the last many months! My wife is a shop widow but she's happy I'm inspired by something.