Builds Project: Colonel 1979 FJ40

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E-Locker Time or Elocker time


Removed my front diff, axles, et al. Laid up a gasket for a rear FZJ80 diff on to my FJ40 housing. I used a sharpie to mark what material needed to leave.

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My good buddy Tor smoothing out my plasma cut
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Another
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If you don't notch the housing it is a royal bitch to get the locker in the housing. It can be done, but in the long run this is quicker. I laid several magnets in the housing to catch debris. Makes clean up faster.
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Here is a pic of the FZJ80 differential. You can see the fork in this pic. It moves the locking mechanism to and fro.
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Reverse shot of the bizznaz end
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Here is the shift fork seperate.
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Here is a shot of the hole where you tighten the nut to the shaft from the motor.
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Here is a shot of the FZJ80 flange I won't be using. The holes don't match up to the housing. I unbolted my 79 flange and it worked flawlessly. If you want you can drill holes.
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Here is the 40 flange bolted on.
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Test fitting the longer spline axle from a 7* series land cruiser. When doing the conversion you will need this axle. If not the splines on the stock axle won't be long enough to work with the gear and shift fork. See the splines here.
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Here is the stock axle. No splines showing. I could spin the axle, but it wouldn't be locked.
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On the FZJ80 housing you need to replace some studs due to the third member being thicker in certain areas. Part#s to follow.
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Hi All:

Lookin' good there Bull! :beer:

Guess you and Tor were really working yesterday, not just drinking beer and watching the rain fall! :grinpimp:

Glad to see you putting some effort back into the "Colonel" after the last several months of inactivity.

Regards,

Alan

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Test fitting the longer spline axle from a 7* series land cruiser. When doing the conversion you will need this axle. If not the splines on the stock axle won't be long enough to work with the gear and shift fork. See the splines here.
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Here is the stock axle. No splines showing. I could spin the axle, but it wouldn't be locked.
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On the FZJ80 housing you need to replace some studs due to the third member being thicker in certain areas. Part#s to follow.
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Good stuff Rodney.

How about some pictures with the freshly painted half-doors and tailgate on? How whacked does the bright new paint look next to the old?


They look good.. My paint is pretty faded, so you can tell they are freshly painted. We should hook up soon.


-bull
 
whoa.. very nice. Do you just hook up power and install a switch for the elocker to work? I'm not familiar with 80s junk.
 
Another option, if you are upgrading to longfields up front, you can buy an E-locker splined axle in the 30 spline setup. :grinpimp: Thanks bull, once my EFI is done, I'm putting my elocker up front as well with my longfields.

BTW: you wanna get rid of that flange? I need an 80 flange so I can redrill it.

thanks
Ben
 
whoa.. very nice. Do you just hook up power and install a switch for the elocker to work? I'm not familiar with 80s junk.

It isn't that easy. You need two 12v relays and a switch. I'm also going to install a led light and hook it up to the sensor so I know when it is locked and unlocked. I will add it to the build thread.



Another option, if you are upgrading to longfields up front, you can buy an E-locker splined axle in the 30 spline setup. :grinpimp: Thanks bull, once my EFI is done, I'm putting my elocker up front as well with my longfields.

BTW: you wanna get rid of that flange? I need an 80 flange so I can redrill it.

thanks
Ben

May upgrade someday if and when I start breaking $hit. PM me your address.
 
Finished up the tailgate project. I decided I wanted a drop down tailgate on my 79 FJ40. The tailgate I had doesn't really work with a 79 tub, but I made it work any how. I want to leave it so I can put the hard top and ambulance doors on it in the winter time.

Think square peg in a round hole. I figure I could drill holes where the hinges attached to the sill. I was completely wrong after drilling the outboard holes for the hinges. There isn't enough space on the back side to get a nut or bolt on it.

After thinking about it I decided to weld studs on it where the hinges attached.

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Here is a pic of the tailgate fitted with only the outer hinges attached.

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For the center, the sill is a thicker metal. Knowing that I used two 12mm self tapping screws to attach the center hinge.

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Here I added the chains and retainers. Here again I ran into a problem. The tailgat interferes with the chain when it is closed. You have to take care when closing it to make sure the chain isn't binding. No big deal

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The holes didn't match for the catches. Had to weld/fill in the holes and re-drill

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Here it is all jiving.

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Soo.. after doing all this work on the colonel I got a chance to take it out and do a shakedown run with my friend Tor and Rudz. Overall it performed great! I have an issues where the split case likes to pop out of 4lo, but everything else we have done to it is working great.

The one thing I need now are tube'esque fenders and sliders.

after several attempts I had to winch myself over this obstacle...not my oil on the rocks. Here is Rudz going over the obstacle after I winched it..
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Tor's rig
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Colonel on a typical NW trail
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