Made and installed extended bump stops. Used some universal off-road truck bumps and 2” square tubing. Of course, a couple of the OE 12mm bolts snapped off when removing the old bump stops. What a PITA drilling and tapping those were.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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TRDdrew
SILVER Star
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Weight reduction lol
Having a tough time with my commuter (2009 1.8l Corolla, 203k miles). It will not leave me stranded, but is not running great.
Experiencing:
- Rough idle and vibration in gear/stopped and no accessories are running.... idle speed will drop, car will shake, and computer will bump it up again
- "weak" starts when cold... i.e. starter motor runs fine but the car catches poorly and may die
- metallic pinging under certain load conditions; most audible with windows down at low speed
Have done:
- Replaced coils/plugs after some misfire codes; it now has brand new toyota coils and plugs. Improved, but issues above remain
- Replaced PCV
- Cleaned throttle body
- Injector cleaner
- 93 octane
-MAF sensor replaced
Considering:
- EGR
- Knock sensor
What other common causes?
Experiencing:
- Rough idle and vibration in gear/stopped and no accessories are running.... idle speed will drop, car will shake, and computer will bump it up again
- "weak" starts when cold... i.e. starter motor runs fine but the car catches poorly and may die
- metallic pinging under certain load conditions; most audible with windows down at low speed
Have done:
- Replaced coils/plugs after some misfire codes; it now has brand new toyota coils and plugs. Improved, but issues above remain
- Replaced PCV
- Cleaned throttle body
- Injector cleaner
- 93 octane
-MAF sensor replaced
Considering:
- EGR
- Knock sensor
What other common causes?
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I can see what she had for breakfast
!!!
My stab in the murky light of an up turned whisky glass would be valves. I’ve had valve issues cause not to dissimilar problems as they set off sensors as well, giving a confusing diagnostic tree to trace
.
Looking for advice...
My FJ80 makes a whining sound when you step on the accelerator that is coming from the rear of the truck. As soon as you release it, the noise goes away and comes back when you press back on the accelerator - like an on/off switch. It's most noticeable at highway speeds, anything above 50mph but you begin to noticeably hear it at above 30mph. At highway speeds, there is also a clunk coming from the rear that you can both hear and feel when you step back on the accelerator after coasting. It seems to be something in the drive train. My research has narrowed this down to either the rear differential pinion bearings, one or both of the output bearings for the transfer case, or both. A couple of questions...
Any advice on how to narrow this down to specifically what it is?
While I could probably muddle my way through repairing the transfer case, I think the differential would require a level of disassembly that would not be suitable for working on the truck in the public parking lot. (I do not have a garage/private space). Would it be worth paying someone to do it? Who all in the NOVA area would you recommend?
My FJ80 makes a whining sound when you step on the accelerator that is coming from the rear of the truck. As soon as you release it, the noise goes away and comes back when you press back on the accelerator - like an on/off switch. It's most noticeable at highway speeds, anything above 50mph but you begin to noticeably hear it at above 30mph. At highway speeds, there is also a clunk coming from the rear that you can both hear and feel when you step back on the accelerator after coasting. It seems to be something in the drive train. My research has narrowed this down to either the rear differential pinion bearings, one or both of the output bearings for the transfer case, or both. A couple of questions...
Any advice on how to narrow this down to specifically what it is?
While I could probably muddle my way through repairing the transfer case, I think the differential would require a level of disassembly that would not be suitable for working on the truck in the public parking lot. (I do not have a garage/private space). Would it be worth paying someone to do it? Who all in the NOVA area would you recommend?
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I sympathize with no garage/private space. Drop it off at @OTRAMM, it’ll be worth the drive in those conditions.
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Thanks! I called @OTRAMM a few months ago about something else and at the time they were not working at LCs older than '93. Not trying to call them out, I respect their business decision - just providing information. I know Ryan is in this group as well and I frequently watch his youtube videos. I found a place near me that seems to specialize in differentials and transmissions. They seemed to suspect the rear diff pinion bearings need to be replaced. I'll report back if they end up performing the work and I am happy with it.
imperium
SILVER Star
I pretty much exclusively bring my LC to NOVA Speed in Manassas. I'd go to OTRAMM, but they're too far for me. Manassas is already far enough.
We did a tech day at World Tour Offroad in Annapolis a few months ago and they seemed to work on everything, including gear work. I'd say you can't go wrong with either of those places.
We did a tech day at World Tour Offroad in Annapolis a few months ago and they seemed to work on everything, including gear work. I'd say you can't go wrong with either of those places.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
I know that @MilkEel just had his front locker in his 80 done somewhere near Finksburg...maybe a backup resource. I called Iron Pig and they told me 4-6 weeks when I was looking to have my front locker/gears done....ended up having Cruiser Outfitters do my whole assembly with a core to drop in.
We've actually opened back up to earlier trucks. I've got an FJ60 in my bay currently. Now that Crash is back we've got the manpower to open the schedule up more.
Thanks all for the recommendations! Looks like I got some good options if the current place does not work out. I'll keep you all updated!
My stab in the murky light of an up turned whisky glass would be valves. I’ve had valve issues cause not to dissimilar problems as they set off sensors as well, giving a confusing diagnostic tree to trace
Seems like a code of any kind would at least vector a little. No codes, no oil burning over 6k mile change intervals, no coolant loss. Assumption based on everything that is happening is too much air or too little fuel. Don't think I've got any vacuum leaks from hoses. Might give one of those top end cleaners you spray through the throttle body a shot since the car is out of state without a garage.
Blowing the smoke from a good cigar on those vacuum lines will help confirm no leaks on the old girl, and de-stress you! You should be able to smell it if its running rich...in my limited experience anyway. Sounded like you'd cleaned all the necessary parts for carbon build up. How's the timing on it? Thats about all I got, valves and timing!
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Got the boat hauled, cleaned, oil changed, winterize antifreeze pumped through, fogged, covered, and parked in its winter spot at our community marina. We usually have to wait until Thanksgiving weekend, but we changed to November 15th to be able to park at the marina, so the nice day called for this project to be wrapped up!
I have a hideous few days coming up at work for Thanksgiving...over 1000 lbs of prepared finished food for Thanksgiving orders to go out on Tuesday and mostly Wednesday. Fortunately I'm off from Thursday through Sunday, so that'll be time to get the cruiser finished up and breaking in some gears!
I have a hideous few days coming up at work for Thanksgiving...over 1000 lbs of prepared finished food for Thanksgiving orders to go out on Tuesday and mostly Wednesday. Fortunately I'm off from Thursday through Sunday, so that'll be time to get the cruiser finished up and breaking in some gears!
Do you only cover the helm and access to the cabin?
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Windshield back…mine is 26 years old, so I don’t do the full wrap anymore.
Digging the cigar piece. I've tried spray cleaner leak test did not hear an idle change. Have not had time to start working through variables in a deliberate way other than throwing a few parts at it. Timing could be a good idea. It's got the usual brief VVT rattle when cold but only in cold weather and clears up in less than a second.
Next day or half day off when I get back to the car will try in order- test purge valve, replace a couple hardened vac hoses, remove/clean/test VVT solenoids, check vac pressure, check/clean egr, check compression.
I am no savant at assessing spark plugs; these were in it for only 20k miles.
Yeah they do not look great!
Finally got the Manta, full system installed. Well, not by me as it turns out the US and Ozzie brothers are not twinsie's!! A little cutting, bending and welding was needed post-muffler, AS well as the cat grafted in. Definitely noticed an improve in the rev response and power. She now runs like a long legged tortoise!
