Parts to convert my 24V HJ60 swap to my 12V FJ40 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Threads
116
Messages
998
Location
NB, Canada
I've searched and searched and am asking for assistance.
I have a 1987(ish) HJ60 Canadian 24V 2H engine with Auto Transmission that I have swapped into my FJ40.
I had an elaborate plan with two alternators and three batteries but I'm having second thoughts. It is too complicated. 24V alt to glow and start and run the split lights off the vacuum pump alternator. 12V alternator installed at the A/C bracket to run the single battery and rest of truck.

So now I'm wanting to abandon that scheme and run the whole thing 12V. My two winches are 12V and it will be simpler.

(Less $ is always better but sometimes you need to buy your way forward.)

Items that need swapping:

CLOSED 1. Starter: I've read that BJ60 bits combined with mine is a potential but what other options are there. I don't mind shipping from Australia but how do I know which to buy?
edit - Toyota P/N 28100-17010, 28100-17040 is said to work. 2.5kW, chinese for ~$135. Bought one for $100 shipped on ebay.
Also need a BJ60 starter relay I think. Looking into this.
Tested Aug 2019, starts engine great.

CLOSED 2. Alternator: REALLY prefer to keep vacuum pump on alternator, not run an electric. Have read that NPR is an option but which one. Or which unit from Australia?
edit - Looks like I'll be trying to fit an Isuzu NPR 5.7L alternator. Google: LR180-502. Mods include custom lower bracket, shim on the shaft to swap my pulley over, possibly a custom upper bracket and some wiring to figure out. Nothing to major in the big scheme considering it is about $100 and readily available, with vac pump and 80 amp, 12v. Bought on ebay for $99 shipped. Seems to be charging and drawing great vacuum.

CLOSED 3. Intake Shutter: quite sure I can find a 12V VSV off an 80 series or something to work.
Engine Manual page EM-33 for function. Toyota 90910-12271 or Dorman 911-602 ordered. Will need to make a small bracket.
This vsv did not work. You can't connect the vacuum pump to the intended filter port on this vsv at least because the internal spring is not strong enough to overcome the vacuum and the spool doesn't move when deenergized. Trying a few more VSV's currently.

CLOSED 4. Tach: Saw a thread detailing this so I'll have to find it again. Sleuths welcome though.
Found a great thread on this:
Tach Hookup - FJ60 12H-T install

Tachometers for your 40 Series Landcruiser. FJ, BJ, HJ
Decided to try and mount the 2H oem tach in the dash to the left of the gauge panel. Sort of an OEM look copied from the RHD's. If this doesn't work it appears that ISSPRO makes tachs that will read the VR flywheel pickup.

CLOSED 5. Glow Plugs: Just need a P/N or something for summer driven only in Canada, 12V.
Need to purchase 10.5V plugs. Purchased from Australia, HKT PT-145. work great

CLOSED 6. Glow Timer: I would have kept this if 24V but I can just use a momentary switch and counting method.
Planning on Wilson switch with possibly a timer relay. Wilson switch of course works.

CLOSED 7. EDIC: Don't have one from the donor so plan to use a choke cable anyway.
edit - Sold on my decision to omit edic and go manual. Not my primary vehicle, weekend only sort of thing.
No edic on the Canadian spec automatic 2H, therefore nothing required.

CLOSED 8. T/M Control Computer: Not really sure what this is exactly... Help appreciated.
edit - Simply used to monitor the transmission temperature and turn on light if too high. Read that it goes on at 150C and off at 120C which seems high. Would like to have this function. Found an FJ62 12V ecu p/n 89530-60020.

CLOSED 9. Transfer Control Relay: For vacuum switching. Pretty sure I can find some 12 volt VSV's.
Purchased a pneumatic valve to override the whole 24V setup.
FESTO MEH-5/2-1/8-B SOLENOID VALVE W/ MEH-3-12VDC COIL

Festo didn't work as it requires pilot air and can't function with vacuum. Will try some 4runner VSV's

Am I missing anything and does anybody have any ideas on my list of items above? Help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:
starter motors;
all diesel starters motors are same dimension, the gear noses change with application. In the old days you could get a cheap mini truck rebuild from Toyota for 12v 2L engines- those are now gone.
ok option:
STARTER Toyota Land Cruiser Mining Truck HZJ70LV HZJ70RV HZJ75LP HZJ75LV HZJ75RP
chinese, but compared $ to OEM you can buy six for this price.

You will need a 12v alternator good luck.

vsv's are dumb so just find some 12V ones.
 
1. 2.5kw is enough I guess to start it? I think mine is 4.5kw.
2. Thought I'd mention I don't mind fabricating a lower alternator bracket.
 
1. 2.5kw is enough I guess to start it? I think mine is 4.5kw.
2. Thought I'd mention I don't mind fabricating a lower alternator bracket.
Yes, it's plenty. I converted my 1HD-FT to 12V and it cranks like crazy with a 2.5kw starter. Absolutely zero issues with starting it.
 
OK, thanks for the info, I figured it would be but like anything, it can be nerve wracking to just throw out money. I've updated the first post with what I know now or at least plan to proceed on.
 
I was able to figure out everything and have posted notes in case anyone else needs ideas for their future swap.
 
Subscribed.... Thanks for documenting your efforts.

I'm working on the same thing with my project. I picked up a rebuilt 12 volt alternator for an 81 Toyota diesel pickup from my local parts store. I returned a 12 volt alternator from a gasser to get my core charge back. The rebuilt unit didn't come with a vacuum pump, but it was setup for one.

when comparing the rebuilt 12 volt with my old 24 volt alternator, the vacuum pump looks like a direct swap. When I get back from vacation, I'll removed the vacuum pump from my old 24 volt alternator and bolt it up to the rebuilt unit to confirm the modification is a viable option for future reference. Will update at that time.
 
Received most of the parts and have begun the installation headaches.

1. Starter - didn't fit exactly, seems the HJ75 unit is clocked differently. I transferred the 12V motor over to my casting and in the process moved the water drain tube and welded over the HJ75 original hole. Also had to grind a notch for the motor casing 'key' because the chinese unit didn't include this function. The power wire is a bit longer but it works fine.

2. Alternator - Adjusting bolt hole is not threaded so I helicoiled it m8x1.25. Lower bracket doesn't fit so I'm working on a custom fab unit. Added a sleeve so I can use the original lower bolt which is the really long one. Pulley fit is way off. Not sure yet how to fix this but a trip to an alternator shop is first. Ordered a 384645-R1 Case-IH tractor pulley which appears to be almost perfect, maybe a 1mm shim behind it.
 
Last edited:
Finally fond time to install the NPR Alternator.
Used the pulley listed above and a 7/16 SAE washer bored to 17mm to space it out a bit and straighten the belt.
Custom lower bracket.
Silver soldered the oil return from an old toyota alternator to the NPR banjo.
Swapped the vacuum banjo post over to the NPR alternator.
Helicoiled the adjustment bolt as mentioned.
Other than that it is a "Direct Bolt-in"...

Pictures
DSC_9849.JPG
DSC_9852.JPG
DSC_9855.JPG
 
awesome job .. I just use an hyundai alternator ( from Terracan model ) back in the day .. but lately got sick of the vacuum system and move to hydroboost and then complete free to use the alternator I want ..

Let us ( me ) know what you decide about the starter .. since I'm looking to replace mine .. I've found a few " aftermaket " options on ebay ..
 
[QUOTE="Let us ( me ) know what you decide about the starter .. since I'm looking to replace mine .. I've found a few " aftermaket " options on ebay ..[/QUOTE]

For the starter I bought an ebay "industrial" toyota starter, 12V and because the casting was clocked differently than the 24V 2H one I just swapped the electric motors. Doing this was fairly quick and easy but I did reposition the vent/drip tube at the brush end so it was downward.

The industrial starter would have bolted in and everything but it was sticking out almost horizontally and I wanted it fit like the factory. Price was good ~$100-130 shipped.

This is in my 40 frame so the industrial might hit something in a 60 chassis sticking out like it did before I swapped motors.
 
STARTER UNIT TOYOTA INDUSTRIAL 12 TEETH 28100 - 17010 . SND0120

If that dosen't work search ebay for:
STARTER UNIT TOYOTA INDUSTRIAL 12 TEETH 28100 - 17010 . SND0120

It is chinese but you know what, the motor internals looked surprisingly good. Full size brushes etc.
My ebay is saying my offer of $100 shipped was accepted, so that is what I paid.
 
According to this part number this starter it's for 1HD-T / 1HZ PZ engines .. I have one of those on my shelf .. I'll need to take a look and compare with my 2H starter ..
 
Yeah, have a look, for me it didn't properly fit, but with a little effort the motor swapped like I said and I saved hundreds.
 
Do you have any of the HJ60 24V parts still? Was it left hand drive? Do you have the front wiper motor? Any of the interior/ heater wiring?
 
updated status in green. Some success some fail...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom