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[CycloSteve]

I can actually confirm that's not the case...there is more required than just grinding off the tab.

I have tried with both versions of the factory alt bracket, and both have significant interference with the actual case of the 150A Tundra alt.

Perhaps on the -T, but on my -FT, there was no need for grinding on the mounting bracket.

 

[Douglas S]

Perhaps on the -T, but on my -FT, there was no need for grinding on the mounting bracket.

You're sure that's a factory bracket? I believe yours worked, but in my case the arc of the factory bracket didn't even line up with the mounting tab on the Tundra alt.

I have a blurry pic somewhere I can dig up. FWIW the modification required to the factory bracket does not appear to be all that difficult, but will require some drilling and welding.

 

[SHREDwagon]

Perhaps on the -T, but on my -FT, there was no need for grinding on the mounting bracket.

One can see in the above photo that significant material has been removed from the alternator casing to accommodate the upper mounting bracket. Hence "no need for grinding on the mounting bracket". Problem being that the highest interference point on the Tundra / Sequoia alternator is one of the 4 bolts holding the casing together - as seen above.

This is what it looks like mounted:

Up close:

Not criticizing anyone who has done this mod, but for me, I'll be moving on as it is not without compromises and replacement in the field ain't happening

 

[CycloSteve]

FWIW it would make sense to just grind-out a groove on the alternator housing for the bracket to slide within vs. grinding off the whole boss. Not that this helps with your situation or mine where lots of material has already been removed, but for future reference. Also, I would flip the threaded square so that the bolt is on the top, not the bottom. Doing both should yield more clearance, and leave plenty of housing for the housing bolt to thread into.