Painless Wiring Question

[90 Weight]

Im getting close to being ready to wire my cruiser. When I wire it, all that will be on the frame is the cowl, (for the fuse box), so I wont have to work around the rest of the body.

I have a never wired a car (other than simple sound system stuff and light stuff),

I have the Painless standard light truck kit.

My question is this....Assuming that I'll have to follow the instruction manual, and common sense, how much time do you think it will take to wire the whole thing (hours).

Anyone dealt with this first hand?

Im on a really tight schedual and I'm trying to get a ballpark figure on how much time I need to set aside for the eletricals.

Also...for those guys who have allready gone though the process, what aditional tools/parts did you have to use or buy to complete or ease the install.

THANKS

Eli

 

[Pin_Head]

The "standard" truck wiring is fundamentally incompatible with the turn signal and brake circuits of 71 and later cruisers. If you use the stock cruiser wiring for these cirdcuits you will be OK. Shouldn't take more than a few days.

If you know Lee and Lynn Hanson in Durango, say Hi from So Cal TLC.

 

[90 Weight]

Here is the exact kit I have-

12 Circuit Universal/Streetrod Harness/Non GM Column

Painless' Description of this kit:

Our 12 Circuit kit can used in just about any vehicle where basic wiring is needed. This kit does NOT included the GM column mounting ignition switch plug but includes the GM column mounted turn signal switch plugs and terminals.

The kit was purchased by the PO, so that is why its not a Landcruiser specific kit...who knows what was going through his head.

 

[DeanDavs]

Eli,

I just spent the weekend finishing wiring up the painless kit to my '78. I used a bunch of switches that weren't standard (which made things more difficult), so stick with the standard switches and you shouldn't have a problem.
It took me a month of spending a few hours here and there but as far as total hours go... probably around 20 hours. Good rule of thumb is: double all of your assumptions, you'll use twice as many connectors as you think you'll need, it will take twice as long to finish the job etc. Print out a copy of the wiring diagram from the tech section of ih8mud because i found it was more useful than the actual manual.
The Painless manual is USELESS!!! If you have a good understanding of electrical parts work, you'll be okay... but if you don't (and be honest!) you'll need a mate that does because the fuse box for the painless kit is wired much differently than the original setup.

That's my opinion anyway.

Good luck.

 

[Pin_Head]

If you use a GM steering column and turn signal and brake lamps then it will be more compatible.

 

[amg2y]

"Print out a copy of the wiring diagram from the tech section of ih8mud because i found it was more useful than the actual manual."

2X. Blow it up as big as you can. Your eyes will thank you....

 

[90 Weight]

I cant seem to find it....links?

"Print out a copy of the wiring diagram from the tech section of ih8mud because i found it was more useful than the actual manual."

2X. Blow it up as big as you can. Your eyes will thank you....

 

[WaAkFJ]

http://www.yankeetoys.org/documents/wiring_diagram_78_fj40.pdf

You can get to this from under the tech section at the top

 

[Pin_Head]

There are a couple of errors in that diagram, notably the labels and positions of the ignition and accessory positions of the ignition switch.

 

[thorvald]

hopefully you have your old harness, solder all the old connectors onto the painless harness.

throw away/give away the butt connectors and solder with shrink wrap your connections.

you'll have to create your own harness going from the turn signal switch to the hazard switch, and windshield wiper switch to wiper motor (least I think you do, it was over three years ago)

It took me a while, but I had no previous experience with wiring.



and a few of these at the end might help just not during though

 

[mdjohnsen]

If you use a GM steering column and turn signal and brake lamps then it will be more compatible.

Yep. I have a GM column as well and I had schematic for it in the directions. I did an EZ Wire setup and it took me about 15 hours. Very simple.

 

[amg2y]

Yeah, not as bad as I thought it would. Just some time and patience... a lot of them.

 

[alumacruiser]

I have all of the color codes for Toyota to Painless written down.If you need this let me know and I will dig it up for you. If you are sticking with the factory switches make sure that you save the OEM connectors and solder and shrink tube them in place.

 

[90 Weight]

I will be running the painless 6 toggle switch kit. no stock guages either.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

It took me probably 40 hours because I was intimidated by it at first (never had any experience whatsoever) and I used twice as many connectors as anticipated. The hazard flashers and wipers are completely different than you would think. The power goes to the wiper motor FIRST then the switch grounds it out. This is key, and took me about 13 20A fuses to figure that out... Use the corrugated black wire tubing to protect the wires, and if you can reuse your firewall grommets. If not, Toyota still sells them. You can reuse your original connectors by putting the spade connectors on them, or I used aftermarket connectors that were water/weather/chemical proof (Deutsch connectors - NOT CHEAP but great quality). Don't hesitate to PM me or ask on here, good luck!!

And who said that a couple s during hurt, I wired up my mom's trailer harness on her car and it worked perfectly after a nice dose of Captain & orange juice

 

[90 Weight]

Is there only one main firewall gromett? I looked it up on spectre and it showed one called "firewall grommet 90"??? Other than extra connecters, shrink wire wrap, and the firewall grommets, what other parts might I need? Thanks for all the help guys.

Eli

 

[alumacruiser]

Shrink tube,solder,soldering gun,electrical tape,6"tie straps and a good set of wire strippers.Also a test light and or a multimeter.

 

[Mike C]

The turn signals take a bit of time to figure out. I have been helping a friend install the ez wiring kit on his 40. It took some time tearing the wiring diagrams apart before I knew where each wire needed to go. I still have yet to finish wiring the turn signals, but they are very close. And I am pretty sure I have it right now.

It also helps to first lay out the wiring harness and pull out any wires that you know you will not need.

 

[Kofoed]

Shrink tube,solder,soldering gun,electrical tape,6"tie straps and a good set of wire strippers.Also a test light and or a multimeter.

The test of continuity lights are good. A digital multimeter **with the audible continuity alarm** is the bomb. Allows you to check it without having the meter in front of you.

You can also wire up some long jumpers to test connections from the fuse box to the electrical device to make sure everything is fine.

 

[Stumpalama]

I did this about a year ago... and it works perfectly (with emissions wired in as well)
I built a true scale mock-up of the dash, with access from the top to run the dash wires. I screwed it to my work bench making it MUCH easier to get the wire length and connections right. I cut and crimped/shrinkwrapped the painless wires to the stock connectors. The painless connectors are she-ite! pitch 'em and get some good spade connectors.
I also chose to cut my harness at the firewall and use GMstyle pin connectors (the same idea as the stock Toyota harness, to break-up the dash harness from the engine bay harness) This also makes checking continuity and grounds and shorts easier to isolate. The hardest part to wrap your head around will likely be the hazard switch. DONOT throw out your painless manual... instead, read through it several times on the crapper before you get into your wiring. Write down all your conversions from stock harness to the painless kit. You will have some leftover wires that say to A/C or elect fan on them. don't cut these out, you will use them to run other things like the charcoal canister valve or the windshield wiper or other stuff like that. JUST BE SURE TO WRITE IT DOWN WHEN YOU DOIT AND BEFORE YOU TAPE UP THE HARNESS!!! Otherwise, you will forget!!!! Also keep your stock wiring harness (unwrappedand layed out) for reference.
Must haves:
Speedy wire strippers (the kindthat grabs the wire and strips it with just a squeeze of your hand.
A big bag of uninsulated crimp connectors 18-22ga and another big bag of 14-16ga. You will use alot of these.
Many feet of heat shrink wrap in various sizes. (mostly 3/16 and 1/4 in).
A roll of black 16ga wire to run your grounds (plan this carefully, everything needs grounds)
Multimeter with Ohms
Band aids sh*t be sharp under there.

Nice to haves:
Big White Board to draw things out and match wires from stock harness to painless kit
Heat gun
Pin connector crimpers, if you use GM and other pin connectors.
I'll snap some pics later.
Good luck.