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GLTHFJ60 said:
IMHO, flatbed only.



That would burn up the t-case diff. Shifting the transfer case into neutral disconnects output shaft from the other gears in the case. It doesn't let the rear driveshaft spin independently of the t-case diff.
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But, do you have any experience with 4x4? Ever seen or driven one? ;)
 
Memberships cost less than a single tow or a DIY synthetic oil change... when you think of it like that, it's easy to justify.

When you join and people take their personal time to selflessly help work on your rig with you so that all of us can wheel together, you'll definitely realize the value.

But when a 'high from the hog' JohnVee takes his hand out of his mouth and uses his fingers to tear off a chunk of meat from directly behind the eye of a pig carcass and hands it to you and you eat it...and you understand why he's been uncontrollably drooling for the last 20 minutes, then.... and only then... you will see the value of that $40 a year.
 
New cruiser should take some design notes from Toyotas of days gone by - - straighter lines like the current 4Runner, bigger wheel wells like the current Tacoma. Easier to remove bumpers :)


C-HR - is that body the new Supra body?

I just saw a rumor that it will have a rear axle electric engine to go with the front to do AWD on it.
 
at this point as long as the same guy that designed that FJ replacement has nothing to do with the new LC i'll be happy
 
I'll not be buying any of them, so no worries here :)

I have no taste for the 200 or the newer 4RNRs either. I grew to dislike the FJC, capable enough but all the "little" things added up. Still had a lot of fun in that truck and it got my business off the ground.

Edit: It was actually kinda interesting in the early days of the FJC. We'd go to events and there would be 50 brand new trucks there. A hand full of us would go after the harder stuff. People thought we were nuts beating the hell out of brand new trucks in the woods. Hard to think that was 11 years ago that I bought mine.
 
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jamesurq said:
Memberships cost less than a single tow or a DIY synthetic oil change... when you think of it like that, it's easy to justify.

When you join and people take their personal time to selflessly help work on your rig with you so that all of us can wheel together, you'll definitely realize the value.

But when a 'high from the hog' JohnVee takes his hand out of his mouth and uses his fingers to tear off a chunk of meat from directly behind the eye of a pig carcass and hands it to you and you eat it...and you understand why he's been uncontrollably drooling for the last 20 minutes, then.... and only then... you will see the value of that $40 a year.
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That's a little long for my sig line, James, but I appreciate being used as a way to show value for the club...unlike the relationship between me and neighborhood property values.

I agree with everybody who has ever recommended joining AAA. Thinking this: almost every truck we drive is over 20 years old and the kids in the shops today aren't well versed working on them, even when the fix should be easy. If a problem arises at URE, it's a couple hundred-plus dollars to tow home (for most of us) to a trusted mechanic or your own tools. Get a AAA card, especially when you're new and don't have familiarity/spare parts, so you can at least get home. Just make sure to get the plan that covers the miles you'd like and also any special needs based on your other vehicles (like RV for high GVWR models). Specify that you want a rollback (flat) truck - they might say it'll cost extra to the driver but almost all of them are flat anyway, so that's not likely to be an issue.

Is silicone a good option for PHH? I can't remember.

Come on out to a meeting. Come to Logans Run if you're repaired by then. You'll find some really great folks in this club.
 
lt1fire said:
Very true but not a big deal for such a short tow

And there are those in the 80 section that have flat towed an 80 across the country behind an RV... don't something I would do but from what I remember of the post nothing terrible happened.



But like I said flat bed would be optimal.

EDIT: just re-read one of the posts and the one I was thinking of they pulled the DS for the x-country trip.
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Flat towing is not the same as towing on a dolly. Never would I ever recommend someone tow their awd car on a dolly, irregardless of distance.

Go tow your cruiser around on a dolly for a hundred miles or so and let us know how it goes.

izzyandsue said:
But, do you have any experience with 4x4? Ever seen or driven one? ;)
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Lmao. Nope, never driven one. Never took the class.
 
lt1fire said:
A F it not you g to argue over a moot point
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It's not a moot point. It's the difference between giving someone good advice, and telling someone they can do something that will damage their vehicle.

A small distance may be "fine", even if you've personally done it, but it will cause damage (excessive and unnecessary wear I consider damage) that may not be immediately visible.

It's not an opinion. It's a fact. It's like (probably worse than) driving your truck with a 40" tire on one side and a 10" tire on the other. Will it work? Yes. Will it cause damage? Also yes. It's fine to take that risk, cause that damage, as long as the person asking for advice is aware of the risks.

I'll stop now.
 
Also, @Pancake Donkey, silicone replacement hose all the way. That's a hose you don't want to have to replace twice!
 
PD ..... When you grab silicone hose (5/8" i believe) grab 2'. You only need ~3" but the leftover is nice to have in the spares bag. Its enough to bypass a blown firewall heater valve in a pinch...... or go ahead and replace those now as well since the coolant will be drained from the top of motor already. Also the time to bypass the rear heater hardlines if they look sketchy. But a lil extra hose in the back of the truck has proved beneficial over the years..... if not for you maybe someone else.

The PHH can be changed on the side of capital blvd. btw but it does suck ;)

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