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[nuclearlemon]

ok, searched archives and the closest i came involved 4h and no real answer

ran carnage canyon today (lots of rock crawling, lots of skinny peddle since i'm technically open)...cruiser ran great in 4 low all morning, but by afternoon, we were coming on the downside (which is icy and in the shade) and it wouldn't stay in 4low. i thought at first that my passenger bumped it with his leg, but even with him hold the shifter, it would pop out. we figured we'd try 2low...same thing...get 50 feet or so and it pops out. i shifted it from below thinking maybe the lever had too much slop...same thing

setup is soa 68 40 with sb350/sm465/74 t case...and like i said, not a single problem on the technical stuff, just on the downhill side which when dry is a 2wd road.

 

[CruisinGA]

Possible broken/tweaked engine/tranny mount while making liberal use of skinny pedal, subsquent d-train flex causese linkage to hit body and pop out.

I guess I'm more inclined to point to an external problem and not an internal t-case problem.
you could try removing the linkage and shifting it into low from below, and see what happens then. Should let you know if its internal or external.

my .02 worth of a guess.

 

[kc_chevota]

had the same problem the nose cone had become lose and caused the splines on the slip coller to become ramped so that any tourq would cause the coller to disengage. before finding the cause i went as far as to tie the lever to the pass seat to keep it in 4wd

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Ige, Check you driverside front motor mount. but with 350, probably isnt' that problem.
Might also check your detent spring. i'd pull the front nose cone off and take a look to make sure it's all ok in there. i don't think on an early case that you can turn that collar around like on the splits or minitruck reduction box..

 

[nuclearlemon]

Possible broken/tweaked engine/tranny mount while making liberal use of skinny pedal, subsquent d-train flex causese linkage to hit body and pop out.

I guess I'm more inclined to point to an external problem and not an internal t-case problem.
you could try removing the linkage and shifting it into low from below, and see what happens then. Should let you know if its internal or external.

my .02 worth of a guess.

tried the linkage from below...pops in beautifully and tight...then fifty feet later audible pop and neutral...

the crazy dude that was wheeling with me said his used to do that, so he would wire tie it in...eventually, it stopped as if the gears/collars got worn in...anyone heard of that. i rebuilt the case, but only resealed...no new gears/hard parts that i know of.

 

[nuclearlemon]

i guess i'll take a look at the nose cone and it's innards next weekend. thanks for the advice.

 

[Poser]

Got an Orion and some ARB's for ya....

 

[Poser]

Bring your junk to MN and spend a weekend with it on the hoist....lots of fun!!!!

 

[nuclearlemon]

i'd take the arbs if i had the money (actually, have an arb in the front, just no air source yet), but i already have a t case that slips into neutral

 

[Pin_Head]

Check the motor mounts and linkage first. If this isn't the problem then popping out of Lo into N is often due to wear on the Lo gear bushing on the output shaft. The wear allows the gear to tilt on the shaft and then "pop" it squeezes the clutch hub out of engagement and into N. The Lo gear bushing is subject to more wear, because it is always spinning relative to the shaft when running in Hi.

If the shift fork is worn really bad, it might not slide the clutch gear into full engagement.

Either one is relatively bad news as you will need to disassemble it.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Check the motor mounts and linkage first. If this isn't the problem then popping out of Lo into N is often due to wear on the Lo gear bushing on the output shaft. The wear allows the gear to tilt on the shaft and then "pop" it squeezes the clutch hub out of engagement and into N. The Lo gear bushing is subject to more wear, because it is always spinning relative to the shaft when running in Hi.

If the shift fork is worn really bad, it might not slide the clutch gear into full engagement.

Either one is relatively bad news as you will need to disassemble it.

disassembly is the easy part...btdt. but what gets me is it was fine all morning while i was beating it. when i hit relatively flat downhill ground, it was all of the sudden. i did the hillclimb from hell just beforehand (long and a bit grueling...1st low and about 3500rpms.)...could that have anything to do with it?

 

[Poser]

i did the hillclimb from hell just beforehand (long and a bit grueling...1st low and about 3500rpms.)...could that have anything to do with it?

Doubtful....



Verify the linkage.....

 

[Pin_Head]

Yea. Uphill, gravity is helping hold it in and visa versa downhill. Bushing wear / clutch gear wear problems tend to pop out of gear with increasing torque load (acceleration or deceleration) or transitioning between accel decel.

 

[65swb45]

disassembly is the easy part...btdt. but what gets me is it was fine all morning while i was beating it. when i hit relatively flat downhill ground, it was all of the sudden. i did the hillclimb from hell just beforehand (long and a bit grueling...1st low and about 3500rpms.)...could that have anything to do with it?

I think you're onto something with the uphill-downhill difference. That makes the worn shift-fork, shift sleeve scenario pinhead described much more likely. The fork and sleeve may be worn with a bias that is good enough to hold [thru the slop] going uphill, but not making good engagement on the downhill. Also keep in mind that the 47 lo speed gear has narrower engagement teeth to the output shaft than the older cases, which also makes it easier to slip out.

If it's just the fork, you could conceivably change it by accessing thru the trans tunnel. In my experience, the hi-lo sleeve is usually trashed in these situations and that will require a teardown.