? on ‘89 Pickup Control Arms (1 Viewer)

[mjosoba]

Evening guys. I rarely stray from the 80’s section. I searched a lot but didn’t come up with a good answer, I suck at search.

There is an ‘89 extended cab locally that I may trade one of my AR’s for. I’m going to look at it Saturday. She said the shop told her the control arms needed to be replaced and that her boyfriend bought new ones but is in boot camp and didn’t have time for it, so he just bought another truck. What am I getting into here? I’ve done the front axle rebuild on my FZJ80 and replaced the front control arms, ball joints, etc on my wife’s LR3. Are these particularly hard to do? And what all is involved in replacing them?

Any first hand experience or links would be much appreciated. The AR I’m trading is valued around $2k. She is asking $2500, and asked if I’d do $500 on top. I didn’t tell her the value on the AR. She researched it and came up with the $500 additional. Market around here (Kansas) is pretty pricey even on older Toy’s like this, so I feel like this is a decent deal if there isn’t more wrong with it. 2” lift and 33’s. It’s got the auto and 3.0. Boo... but that would change down the road.

Thanks! Michael.

 

[pappy]

IFS vs. solid axle. Two different beasts. Here are the parts for the front.

 

[mjosoba]

That’s looks less complicated than the wife’s LR3. Any good threads on it? Do the CV’s come out?

 

[KLF]

I would want to know why he thinks they need replacing. Never heard of this, unless they were damaged in an accident. What kind of lift is on it?

Upper or lower? The upper ones will require removing the torsion bars, which can be difficult, mostly because the big adjuster bolts at the aft ends will be rusted solid.

 

[bjowett]

I've seen the arms rust from the inside out, just like the frames. The lower mounts on the frame may also be in rough shape. These are excellent trucks, but just like a Land Cruiser, the body and frame condition are everything. Since it is a V6, check the coolant for combustion gas contamination.

 

[mjosoba]

@KLF Good points. I’ll find that out Saturday. She didn’t say why they needed replacing, just that the mechanic said so. Which who knows what that means. I’m not sure what type of lift, I’ll find that out as well. Edit: I’m guessing the bushings may be shot?

@bjowett I’m definitely going to give the frame a thorough look see. Are these like the ‘00 era Tacoma’s, with some having inherent frame problems? My ‘01 Tacoma didn’t have them but I’ve heard horror stories.

This is will mostly be a DD while my 80 goes under the knife for a diesel. I’ll probably take it back to stock height.

 

[bjowett]

The early stuff has rust issues, but not as bad the Tacomas that live in salty areas. The pre Tacoma units are entirely boxed, like the 80 frame... so mud and moisture may collect inside and rust them from the inside out.

 

[ntsqd]

As the owner of an '88 with a 3.0 and an auto I don't find it to be nearly as bad as everyone says it should be. Granted, I jumped from a 22R to this truck and I did re-gear to 4.56's with 31's. I suppose someone used to an LS would think differently. I have found that my mileage doesn't suffer from having the trans set in the "Power" mode so long as my right foot behaves, but when I need the power to get around an idiot that it responds MUCH better than when in "Econ" mode (or whatever they call it. The difference is so big that I wonder if those who condemn the 3.0 as the "3.Slo" don't know about that button.

My UCA's are soon to be replaced. The RS bushings are so tired that the t-bar hits the floor on big bumps. They don't look all that bad, but the witness mark on the underside of the floor tells the story.

 

[mjosoba]

Got a bit more info. It’s the UCA’s that need replacing. I’m guessing the bushings are shot and they just bought new arms vs replacing the bushings. I did the same on our LR3.

Lift she is getting back to me on.

 

[mjosoba]

Appreciate all the info guys. Went and looked at it today.

Lift: not sure on brand but it’s 2”, block rear and ball joint spacer on front end. I plan on dropping the rear blocks and leaving the spacer, while cranking the torsion bars down so it’s near stock height. Losing the 33’s too.

UCA: Bushings are shot, they just bought new control arms instead of trying to replace them. New arms are included, I just need to install them.

Lots of newer parts, both installed and included. TRE’s and all the steering linkages are new but not torqued down, LCA’s are fairly new, new steering gear box and pump, AFM or whatever it is on the 3.0 is newish. Valve cover gaskets are both leaking a bit, but not horribly. HG is good and frame is surprisingly good. Surface rust but nothing bad yet. I’ll throw some fluid film on it soon. Body isn’t bad/isn’t great. No rust but paint isn’t too good either. Good beater truck.

Made a deal for my AR and $300. I feel like I came out good. I’ll probably be perusing the torsion bar/UCA threads extensively so if you have good write ups, I’d definitely appreciate a monk. Thanks all!