alaskacruiser said:
it won't cool the coolant or oil but it will enable the block and head to deal with the heat from those things. if you blow cold air on a hot metal surface the metal itself will shed heat more quickly.
Okay, Now I'm Completely Convinced: ALL Original HG's Are Actively Failing!
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it won't cool the coolant or oil but it will enable the block and head to deal with the heat from those things. if you blow cold air on a hot metal surface the metal itself will shed heat more quickly.
semlin said:
I think that some people don't realise that part of the cooling is radiant off of the motor itself and exchanging the air around it helps with this. Kind of operating in an oven or a screen house.
I remember reading about the distrubutors on the old Chevy V8s. The return springs on the mechanical advance would fatigue over time from the heat because the distrubutor was tucked up under the firewall where there was no circulation.
Venting my 2F helped quite a bit for running warm. The engine is a very large radiator and like the radiator on the grill you need to let air flow for it to work.
Even with a perfectly maintained radiator. The temperature difference from a cold engine to a warmed up engine is quite a bit. The difference in thermal expansion between aluminum and cast iron is significant at the length of this engine. The gasket has to be able to withstand this movement hopefully that is what the new gasket does. I am curious what the difference. Even if the motor only reached 170F the movement would still be there but not as much. I wonder if the gasket a failing because of the seal being slighty torn and gases and coalant being able to penetrate little at a time. Or are the gasket destroyed by heat damage.
Even with a perfectly maintained radiator. The temperature difference from a cold engine to a warmed up engine is quite a bit. The difference in thermal expansion between aluminum and cast iron is significant at the length of this engine. The gasket has to be able to withstand this movement hopefully that is what the new gasket does. I am curious what the difference. Even if the motor only reached 170F the movement would still be there but not as much. I wonder if the gasket a failing because of the seal being slighty torn and gases and coalant being able to penetrate little at a time. Or are the gasket destroyed by heat damage.
IdahoDoug said:
Good observations, Doug, however I disagree. I wouldn't call it a stopgap... as that would imply it being a temporary solution for something. The only solution it solves is less money spent on emmission controls. Toyota has used the back of the head EGR cooler on a variety of engines for a long time. The R series, and the 1FZ's partner in the head gasket crime, the 7M series. I'm guessing an external tube would probably not cool enough... have you ever seen the external exhaust to air EGR cooler on the F and 2F? A big ole chunk of cast iron...
As for the PHH blowing and the t-body hose not? Better flow, more flow? I've read throttle bodies tend to ice below 40 W/O heat... any thoughts?
Who is Robbie? What is his call name on here? If he is not here what is his email address? or phone number. Anybody got any idea his fee for this job?
I make several really long trips each year and I don't want to blow a hg while on one of those.
Grouseman
I make several really long trips each year and I don't want to blow a hg while on one of those.
Grouseman
cruiserdan said:
Dan, is the OEM replacement part subject to the same problems as the original factory part? Is there an alterntive HG that will avoid future replacement?
New head bolts, too, prolly. Studs?
Mike
Idea
Does anyone know the part # for the "New" Toyota head gasket ? I had my HG replaced at around 70K by Toyota about 2 years ago and I'm curious as to whether I got the new HG.
I'm not a mechanic by any means, so please don't laugh too hard at my idea.....
If the head and engine are made of dissimilar metals - aluminum and iron and they seem to separate based upon heat differences, could one use some type of a block heater (on the head) - - - or a "head heater" to get the two metals to the same temp prior to or during starting ? Ok, you can laugh now
Does anyone know the part # for the "New" Toyota head gasket ? I had my HG replaced at around 70K by Toyota about 2 years ago and I'm curious as to whether I got the new HG.
I'm not a mechanic by any means, so please don't laugh too hard at my idea.....
If the head and engine are made of dissimilar metals - aluminum and iron and they seem to separate based upon heat differences, could one use some type of a block heater (on the head) - - - or a "head heater" to get the two metals to the same temp prior to or during starting ? Ok, you can laugh now
If there is no specific detailed pattern on how the HG starts to leak, or when, or where first... ie #1 to #6 cyl. How do you guys cold start and warm up ?
I kind of keep it under 2k revolutions until the tranny warms up.
Just an observation...
I kind of keep it under 2k revolutions until the tranny warms up.
Just an observation...
PDoyle said:
To expand on warm ups, start ups and shut downs. I'm curious when I've been wheelin I've noticed some guys don't shut down there rigs when we stop. Does it hurt the head if you start up and shut down several times a days?
Mike S said:
The OEM gasket has gone through a couple revisions. The new one is a lot different. I will be using a new stock gasket and my original head bolts.
Beast II said:Does anyone know the part # for the "New" Toyota head gasket ? I had my HG replaced at around 70K by Toyota about 2 years ago and I'm curious as to whether I got the new HG.
I'm not a mechanic by any means, so please don't laugh too hard at my idea.....
If the head and engine are made of dissimilar metals - aluminum and iron and they seem to separate based upon heat differences, could one use some type of a block heater (on the head) - - - or a "head heater" to get the two metals to the same temp prior to or during starting ? Ok, you can laugh now
Valve grind kit, 04112-66035. Head gasket alone, 11115-66031.
A repair done in that time frame, using factory parts, would have the current gasket in it.
If you have oil in the intake could that be a sign that the head gasket is going/gone? I changed the PCV valve and seem to be having the same problem. Also my oil pan gasket I know IS gone and probably need to replace the O-Ring since I forgot to do it when I replaced the distributor 
.
.Part #
Hello C-Dan,
My invoice from Toyota of Manhatten Beach shows 04112-66035 Gasket Kit, Engine - I assume this is the newest one ? Also shows Head S/A Cylinder - 11101-69107 - $1,433.01 Wow, did I get a deal or what ?
Hello C-Dan,
My invoice from Toyota of Manhatten Beach shows 04112-66035 Gasket Kit, Engine - I assume this is the newest one ? Also shows Head S/A Cylinder - 11101-69107 - $1,433.01 Wow, did I get a deal or what ?
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bjowett said:
EGR sucks to get right in any application.
15psi thru a 5/16 line isn't going to flow more in a closed system when the heater valve is closed. I've read superchargers make great throttle body heaters (hey maybe that excuse will work here at home - hey er, my throttle body heater isn't working right so I added a different one
).I like bringing the thread back to putting vents in my hood. Full circle.
Lower the heat cycle extremes can help. As can slower warmup times.
Scott Justusson
'94 FZJ80 Kazumatized
The OEM gasket has gone through a couple revisions. The new one is a lot different. I will be using a new stock gasket and my original head bolts.
Hey Dan
What are the differences in the head gasket? Its hard to tell from the used photos and the new one you sent.
Thanks
Chris
Hey Dan
What are the differences in the head gasket? Its hard to tell from the used photos and the new one you sent.
Thanks
Chris
Look in this thread. Study the HG photos carefully. You will see how the metal extends further than it did before.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=71980
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=71980
Thank Dan!
That looks quite a bit stronger in the week area.
That looks quite a bit stronger in the week area.
We were getting dangerously close to my off the wall question during my head gasket replacement as to whether I should try to heat the block and install the cold head on it quickly so the block was essentially half heated in terms of the expansion. I'll thank nobody for bringing that one back on line -heh. Who knows what evil that might have wreaked. It might have reduced the peak hot temp expansion difference, but for me the deal breaker was that then the gasket would be under tension all the time with a cold engine.
Wonder if we can get someone to start importing the iron version of the aluminum heads we got on the 1FZ? Heck, we could send them all to Robbie and as we all do HG replacements, he could sell the aluminum heads from our trucks nationally to non Mudders to defray our costs of getting the iron ones. He'd be busy refreshing the iron heads for us, then selling them out into the non Mud world to a population of 80 owners needing heads that's bound to be growing every year....
DougM
Wonder if we can get someone to start importing the iron version of the aluminum heads we got on the 1FZ? Heck, we could send them all to Robbie and as we all do HG replacements, he could sell the aluminum heads from our trucks nationally to non Mudders to defray our costs of getting the iron ones. He'd be busy refreshing the iron heads for us, then selling them out into the non Mud world to a population of 80 owners needing heads that's bound to be growing every year....
DougM
I would like that
Regarding the possible relationship of the EGR to the heat problems at #6.... IIRC, the Aussies don't have EGR on their version of the 1FZ-FE engine. They also don't report anywhere near the number of HG failures that we have seen over the last 5 years. I am convinced the two are related knowing that there is nothing that we here in NA can do about it.
-B-
-B-