Oil pan leak...........

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tls3601

tls3601

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Aug 18, 2013
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So I would have sworn that oil pans are still available; 12101-60063, but search says NLA?? Anyways I have a leak on the passenger side at the gasket-so replace gasket and use Toyota FIPG?? But, how would I know if the pan itself leaks as well??? Anyone else been thru this??? And also is the stock gasket which is still available 12151-60021 the best one to use?? Also what else will I need to remove to do this job? I know it will be messy..................
 
most likely just the gasket, that would be an unusual place for a leak unless the pan has damage from being removed before. What year engine? usually the leak would be around the skidplate.
 
 
Do not use anything but OEM, unless they just can't be found(in this case, they can)
It will be messy-yes. Use some of that black gasket sealer-stick the gasket to the pan first-
Get some longer(30mm) bolts to initially get the pan up on to the block(smear some of the goop on that too, especially around the front/rear seal area)
If you have someone to help hold the pan up to the block while you start at least 4 long bolts, it will make it a lot easier.{a floor jack can work,too} Tighten up the long bolts 'til you are able to get the regular(short) bolts to start into the block. Once you have 4-6 of the short ones started, you can remove the long ones and finish bolting up all the rest. Torque is ~ 7 ft.lbs(cork gasket)----(get an "inch/lb" torque wrench to be more accurate--set at 84-borrow one from Advance Auto Parts)
 
If the pan has never been off it will be tough to remove. Use your bottle jack and a 2x4 between the frame rail and the bottom of the pan. Tighten it a few turns every 10-15 minutes and eventually it will pop off and separate. Definitely use the oem cork gasket with FIPG in the corners. I used string to tie the gasket to the pan in every other hole which will make it easier to install, then cut out the string one at a time. There's a good write up on all this somewhere in here in a tech article if I recall. Can't find it ATM. Also, get a 7 in 1 tool to help scrape off the old hard as a rock gasket. Clean surfaces are key so don't half ass it.
 
All good and sorry to inconvenience you Poser..........will i have to stay after class for this violation????;)
 
iptman-like your technique, may have to do it alone.
 
My oil pan write up

ih8mud.com/tech/oilpan.php
 
I use four carburetor mounting studs as pan/gasket alignment guides.
 
It's probably in the link(s) that Poser provided, but spend some time straightening and leveling the flange/gasket surface on the pan, especially if you had to pry the pan off. And, DON'T over-tighten the bolts, or the cork gasket will deform and lose a good seal. The 2F FSM doesn't give a torque value, but the 3FE FSM does, and it's only 90-something inch-pounds IIRC. It doesn't feel like anything, so procure a good inch-pounds torque wrench for your installation.
 
Cool and thanks guys-not sure if my pan itself has a leak as I might also be getting some run-off from a rear main seal or rear freeze plug.........any way to tell for sure on pan beside removing it???
 
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