Interesting they make a 11.5" wide 38" & 35" tire but not a 37" tire.They are fifteen 52 wheels in a +25 offset. Tire are the new Toyo rr pro 38/11.5/17. The set up replaced the icons I unfortunately kept breaking.
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Interesting they make a 11.5" wide 38" & 35" tire but not a 37" tire.They are fifteen 52 wheels in a +25 offset. Tire are the new Toyo rr pro 38/11.5/17. The set up replaced the icons I unfortunately kept breaking.
Yea, I was pretty happy to see them. I'll get some side by side shots of these next to the 37/12.5. The only other tire in that size i think is the ridge grappler. Great Tire just super dated tech. I was on 37/12.5 micky's before these. So most of the clearance work was done. My BMC was aggressive enough, I just needed to shave the bushing and Lift puck 1/4 inch. The rears still need some work on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. So far so good and loving the ride.Interesting they make a 11.5" wide 38" & 35" tire but not a 37" tire.
This dude casually rides his bike farther than I drive my car in a dayStacked up some hobbies this weekend
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Understandable.37s, no body lift, and full suspension travel achieved. Missing a windshield washer tank though.View attachment 4146914
37s, no body lift, and full suspension travel achieved. Missing a windshield washer tank though.View attachment 4146914
Some photos from a trail about 20 minutes from our house.
Also… Anyone go from Timbren to Perry bumps? Worth the switch?
Found the truck bottoming out in the rear on some mid speed stuff I never used to worry about.
I also bet some new rear springs would help the situation as well.
Some photos from a trail about 20 minutes from our house.
Also… Anyone go from Timbren to Perry bumps? Worth the switch?
Found the truck bottoming out in the rear on some mid speed stuff I never used to worry about.
I also bet some new rear springs would help the situation as well.
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yea that all makes sense. I have the truck pretty dialed and don’t want to mess with anything, I just feel like the springs on the vehicle are a bit tired in the rear.I've heard a few people switch from Timbren to Perry and report they liked the changes. Springs would for sure help, but if you are otherwise happy with the current springs I'd personally look at utilizing the factory in coil bump stops. IIRC they have ~2" deflection which is the same-ish as the Timrben AOR. I run a hockey puck bolted to the bottom of the spring bucket which engages the perch held bump stop ~3/4" after the Timbrens. They don't engage and limit at all when the opposite sides droops, but on the faster stuff you land on 4 bumps instead of only 2 so it shares the load. Easy and cheap to try out and easily reversible if not.
Pic from yesterday
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Thanks brotha, nothing changing aesthetically. Maybe a blower when the valley plate starts leaking… that’s how that works right?Those wheels with the slitktop WORK dude. This rig is perfect and dont change anything.
I’m
yea that all makes sense. I have the truck pretty dialed and don’t want to mess with anything, I just feel like the springs on the vehicle are a bit tired in the rear.
I think new OEM springs and a set of Perry bumps would help get it back to where it was a year or so ago.
I keep it light but I tow almost every weekend and have a packed drawer in the back. All of which have been relatively constant for the last 100k miles.
I don’t want to impact my travel at all, my offset works well and the truck drives incredibly well for 38s. I just need a little extra compression support in the rear so I stay off the bumps a bit more.
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As previously noted, springs don’t get softer or harder. They may gat overstressed and lose some free length, but the rate, measured in pounds per inch of deflection, won’t change. If the old spring is the same length as the new spring, both spring should have the same force at a given amount of deflectioneasy enough to check.I’m
yea that all makes sense. I have the truck pretty dialed and don’t want to mess with anything, I just feel like the springs on the vehicle are a bit tired in the rear.
I think new OEM springs and a set of Perry bumps would help get it back to where it was a year or so ago.
I keep it light but I tow almost every weekend and have a packed drawer in the back. All of which have been relatively constant for the last 100k miles.
I don’t want to impact my travel at all, my offset works well and the truck drives incredibly well for 38s. I just need a little extra compression support in the rear so I stay off the bumps a bit more.
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I am pretty sure metal fatigues as it cycles and coils lose their "memory".As previously noted, springs don’t get softer or harder. They may gat overstressed and lose some free length, but the rate, measured in pounds per inch of deflection, won’t change. If the old spring is the same length as the new spring, both spring should have the same force at a given amount of deflectioneasy enough to check.
If you are running AHC, the spring force is combined with the pressure from the globes and a sagging corner most likely is a globe issue.. it’s pat my bedtime so I’m signing off, can’t see the keyboard anymore let me know if you need more spring info,
That would be called annealing, usually a heat treatment. You can check it by finding what the rate in lbs/inch is on the OEM springs. Have your current springs load tested and compare.the middle 80% of the spring’s compression is the area you should measure how much force it takes to compress one inch. That’s the rate to compare what a new spring is rated at.I am pretty sure metal fatigues as it cycles and coils lose their "memory".