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They are fifteen 52 wheels in a +25 offset. Tire are the new Toyo rr pro 38/11.5/17. The set up replaced the icons I unfortunately kept breaking.
Interesting they make a 11.5" wide 38" & 35" tire but not a 37" tire.
 
Played in the dirt

 
Interesting they make a 11.5" wide 38" & 35" tire but not a 37" tire.
Yea, I was pretty happy to see them. I'll get some side by side shots of these next to the 37/12.5. The only other tire in that size i think is the ridge grappler. Great Tire just super dated tech. I was on 37/12.5 micky's before these. So most of the clearance work was done. My BMC was aggressive enough, I just needed to shave the bushing and Lift puck 1/4 inch. The rears still need some work on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. So far so good and loving the ride.
 
Loving the skinnies.

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37s, no body lift, and full suspension travel achieved with Tundra arms. Missing a windshield washer tank though.
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Some photos from a trail about 20 minutes from our house.

Also… Anyone go from Timbren to Perry bumps? Worth the switch?

Found the truck bottoming out in the rear on some mid speed stuff I never used to worry about.

I also bet some new rear springs would help the situation as well.

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Some photos from a trail about 20 minutes from our house.

Also… Anyone go from Timbren to Perry bumps? Worth the switch?

Found the truck bottoming out in the rear on some mid speed stuff I never used to worry about.

I also bet some new rear springs would help the situation as well.

I've heard a few people switch from Timbren to Perry and report they liked the changes. Springs would for sure help, but if you are otherwise happy with the current springs I'd personally look at utilizing the factory in coil bump stops. IIRC they have ~2" deflection which is the same-ish as the Timrben AOR. I run a hockey puck bolted to the bottom of the spring bucket which engages the perch held bump stop ~3/4" after the Timbrens. They don't engage and limit at all when the opposite sides droops, but on the faster stuff you land on 4 bumps instead of only 2 so it shares the load. Easy and cheap to try out and easily reversible if not.

Pic from yesterday
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Some photos from a trail about 20 minutes from our house.

Also… Anyone go from Timbren to Perry bumps? Worth the switch?

Found the truck bottoming out in the rear on some mid speed stuff I never used to worry about.

I also bet some new rear springs would help the situation as well.

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Those wheels with the slicktop WORK dude. This rig is perfect and dont change anything.
 
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I’m
I've heard a few people switch from Timbren to Perry and report they liked the changes. Springs would for sure help, but if you are otherwise happy with the current springs I'd personally look at utilizing the factory in coil bump stops. IIRC they have ~2" deflection which is the same-ish as the Timrben AOR. I run a hockey puck bolted to the bottom of the spring bucket which engages the perch held bump stop ~3/4" after the Timbrens. They don't engage and limit at all when the opposite sides droops, but on the faster stuff you land on 4 bumps instead of only 2 so it shares the load. Easy and cheap to try out and easily reversible if not.

Pic from yesterday
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yea that all makes sense. I have the truck pretty dialed and don’t want to mess with anything, I just feel like the springs on the vehicle are a bit tired in the rear.

I think new OEM springs and a set of Perry bumps would help get it back to where it was a year or so ago.

I keep it light but I tow almost every weekend and have a packed drawer in the back. All of which have been relatively constant for the last 100k miles.

I don’t want to impact my travel at all, my offset works well and the truck drives incredibly well for 38s. I just need a little extra compression support in the rear so I stay off the bumps a bit more.

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I’m

yea that all makes sense. I have the truck pretty dialed and don’t want to mess with anything, I just feel like the springs on the vehicle are a bit tired in the rear.

I think new OEM springs and a set of Perry bumps would help get it back to where it was a year or so ago.

I keep it light but I tow almost every weekend and have a packed drawer in the back. All of which have been relatively constant for the last 100k miles.

I don’t want to impact my travel at all, my offset works well and the truck drives incredibly well for 38s. I just need a little extra compression support in the rear so I stay off the bumps a bit more.

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Have you augmented/preloaded the rear springs with spring spacers to handle more load? Recommend 20mm all the way to 50mm if necessary. You can adjust the jounce stop within the coil spring by using a spacer above it in between the frame, or just augment the spring directly by using a spacer between the spring and jounce stop.


You can also control compression travel using the damper adjustment. Rather than just using comfort, for faster pace stuff, I may use sport off-road to manage compression.

I'm not a fan of the Timbren stuff. They seems to have limited bushings and just adapt it to vehicles with brackets. I do like Durobumps. They work great and go about their job in a transparent way.
 
I’m

yea that all makes sense. I have the truck pretty dialed and don’t want to mess with anything, I just feel like the springs on the vehicle are a bit tired in the rear.

I think new OEM springs and a set of Perry bumps would help get it back to where it was a year or so ago.

I keep it light but I tow almost every weekend and have a packed drawer in the back. All of which have been relatively constant for the last 100k miles.

I don’t want to impact my travel at all, my offset works well and the truck drives incredibly well for 38s. I just need a little extra compression support in the rear so I stay off the bumps a bit more.

View attachment 4151522
As previously noted, springs don’t get softer or harder. They may gat overstressed and lose some free length, but the rate, measured in pounds per inch of deflection, won’t change. If the old spring is the same length as the new spring, both spring should have the same force at a given amount of deflectioneasy enough to check.
If you are running AHC, the spring force is combined with the pressure from the globes and a sagging corner most likely is a globe issue.. it’s pat my bedtime so I’m signing off, can’t see the keyboard anymore let me know if you need more spring info,
 
As previously noted, springs don’t get softer or harder. They may gat overstressed and lose some free length, but the rate, measured in pounds per inch of deflection, won’t change. If the old spring is the same length as the new spring, both spring should have the same force at a given amount of deflectioneasy enough to check.
If you are running AHC, the spring force is combined with the pressure from the globes and a sagging corner most likely is a globe issue.. it’s pat my bedtime so I’m signing off, can’t see the keyboard anymore let me know if you need more spring info,
I am pretty sure metal fatigues as it cycles and coils lose their "memory".
 
I am pretty sure metal fatigues as it cycles and coils lose their "memory".
That would be called annealing, usually a heat treatment. You can check it by finding what the rate in lbs/inch is on the OEM springs. Have your current springs load tested and compare.the middle 80% of the spring’s compression is the area you should measure how much force it takes to compress one inch. That’s the rate to compare what a new spring is rated at.
If your current spring is still the same length of a new spring, it should be good to go.
 
Hey all.

It's been a LONG time. Got divorced and had to sell my 99 Land Cruiser about 7 years ago and stepped away from the Toyota/Ofrroading world for a while.


Bought a 2004 GX470 and it was mostly stock up until about 6 months ago and started a flurry of mods after I blew an air spring at Barnwell Mountain. Had the new Dobinsons MRR dialed in and was planning to wheel it this summer with my kids. There was a plan to retire it so my kids could have it someday, and I was going to purchase an LX700h Overtrail in December.

Unfortunately last week my wife had an oopsie. She was by herself about half a mile from our house. Just had Sewell Lexus in Dallas align it and restore the headlights. Handed her the keys to run some errands with the fresh ride. She doesn't really remember what happened but thinks she may have been trying to avoid and animal and overcorrected. It rolled 4 times and she managed to walk away with scrapes and bruises.


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Unfortunately the GX is toast so I had it towed to the house and started stripping off parts while we wait for insurance to work things out with my independent claims adjuster.

I was looking at GXs for sale to get something as a stop gap before the Overtrail purchase this winter, but decided to look at Land Cruisers again. I came across a local deal for a 2015 LX570 that was priced right and was located only 30 miles away.

It isnt perfect but it's clean and as soon as I sat in it I knew I had to have it. It's an upgrade in almost every measurable way (aside from offroad capability) compared to my GX470, and has a Hamilton CarPlay system already installed but is otherwise unmolested. I test drove it last week, and again with the wife and kids over the weekend. We offered $28k out the door and the offer was accepted yesterday.

Drove it home and am trying to learn everything I can about these land yachts. Cannot get over how smooth the ride is with 20" wheels!

Not sure which direction I plan on going with it yet. I am finding myself daydreaming about a Diesel Toys 1VD swap and slapping portals with 37"s on the LX570 and abandoning my plans to purchase the LX700h Overtrail. The interior feels a lot more spacious compared to the new models.




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