OEM or aftermarket center muffler? (1 Viewer)

[RND1]

The center muffler on my '03 is in need of replacement. My go to online store is $460 shipped. The local custom muffler shop quoted $160 for steel and $220 for stainless. I generally go with OEM as I'm usually saving $$ on labor by DIY'ing, but not sure in this case - is the OEM part worth the extra cost? Is this a bolt on item that I can DIY?

Here's the part:

Muffler & Pipe | Genuine Toyota | 17403-50151 : Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota parts | Toyota Parts Online | Toyota Parts

 

[Mark WV]

Amazon.com: Bosal 279-773 Exhaust Silencer: Automotive

I installed the Bosal aftermarket on my '06 LC. It matched up perfectly with the pipes and hangers, and includes the mounting point for the vibration dampener /weight. It also has the same rear clamp attachment as OEM, unlike the walker muffler which relies on a traditional compression exhaust clamp. Sounds the same as stock for a fraction of the price.

Be sure to order the two front gaskets as these will definitely need changed, and be prepared to cut off the existing bolts if the current muffler is being replaced due to rust.

if you do the work yourself, when removing the muffler from the tailpipe, you will want to rotate the muffler 1/8 turn counter clockwise before sliding (pounding) the muffler forward off of the tailpipe as there is a locking pin on the muffler that needs disengaged from the tailpipe.

there is also a thin metal gasket at the rear pipe joint ($10) that seems to be a waste of money - if I was doing it again I would just seal the rear joint with exhaust putty prior to reinstalling the clamp

 

[natehack]

My local exhaust shop replaced ours with stainless unit they had and welded it all up for $135 and a morning.

Bring it to Saint Cloud MN I guess...

 

[nissanh]

^^ Yes, OEM is DIY. Two front flanges (needs two gaskets): Use antiseize on threads and around the heads to keep it from rusting.
Rear is slide in type. I think the old gasket can be reused.

 

[SmoothLC]

 

[RND1]

Thanks guys! Appreciate the video DIY. Leaning towards buying the bosal amazon prime and having my local shop do the install. But, before I do, I'm going to call around to see if I can find a stainless option for what @natehack got one for.

 

[taco47001]

My shop did a magna-flow stainless for $185 installed. Sounds amazeballs!

 

[DirtDawg]

I also had a magnaflow welded up. Love the tone, comparable to a stock V8 truck.

 

[abuck99]

I also had a magnaflow welded up. Love the tone, comparable to a stock V8 truck.

I think there are a couple of size options for Magnagflow- which did you end up with? I'm not far off from replacing mine.

 

[DirtDawg]

I think there are a couple of size options for Magnagflow- which did you end up with? I'm not far off from replacing mine.

I used this one: Amazon.com: MagnaFlow 12586 Exhaust Muffler: Automotive

 

[RND1]

For you guys that did the magnaflow, did you leave on the back muffler? If so, does it sound like this?

 

[taco47001]

For you guys that did the magnaflow, did you leave on the back muffler? If so, does it sound like this?

Is it the resonator? I do not have that as it was deleted. Mine sounds pretty much identical to that but it terminates in the OEM location. Great vid.

 

[DirtDawg]

For you guys that did the magnaflow, did you leave on the back muffler? If so, does it sound like this?

My resonator is removed, but mine is not nearly as loud as that. Like I said best comparison I can make is a stock American truck.

 

[KINGER]

+1 for Magnaflow (#11255. 18" case, 24" overall). Love mine. Passengers have actually commented on how smooth and mellow the tone is. Resonator intact.

 

[azPaul]

+1 for Magnaflow (#11255. 18" case, 24" overall). Love mine. Passengers have actually commented on how smooth and mellow the tone is. Resonator intact.

Hi, quick question: any performance gain? I just started towing a TT and looking for anything I can get... thanks.

 

[KINGER]

Gas mileage is up a bit (maybe 1/2 mpg) so there's less restriction vs. OEM. However, consensus seems to be the 2UZ needs some back pressure to make torque. When I had a big open hole in the OEM muffler it sounded cool but low end torque noticeably suffered. I got it back with the Magnaflow and it probably helps with peak HP, but I rarely mat it so not sure.

I got it because it sounds good and was cheaper than OEM.

 

[YardPig]

I went Bosal, 2 years it cracked at the rear mount area and developed a horrendous harmonic buzz from the baffles coming loose.
They warranty them for life, the new one is good so far, hoping first one was just a dud.

 

[98100Crusher]

I just replaced my muffler with an OEM. The factory one lasted one month shy of twenty years on the truck.
Notes:
1) Due to the age/rust of the bolts, I bought all new hardware. I dremeled off three of the old bolts and was able to use a sawzall on the other. A twenty pack of the Dremel 426B reinforced wheels works well. Don't use the quick change dremel bit - too wide and you trash it if you try to get in tight on a bolt(as I did...). The sawzall works better if you use the dremel to cut a starter notch to put the sawzall blade in.
2) Use silicon to spray the rubber and hangers to make them move easily.
3) Set the hanger back on the muffler post for the two rear-ward hangers so you can just slide them on - easier when you are pushing them upward(see photo).
4) For setting the rear muffler pipe into the reasonator pipe:
a) make sure the inside of the resonator is cleaned up and that you line up the stud on the inside of the resonator pipe with the notch on the muffler pipe.
b) I wound up tapping the pipes together with a heavy screw driver and a rubber mallet to get them tight enough for the angled gasket to set in place.

 

[LTrain0800]

I always go OEM with replacement parts except for this. I went with a Magnaflow too, no regrets.

 

[ogsuv]

I did a diy bosal on my last cruiser. super cheap and easy install, lasted 2-3 years in Wisconsin and was toast.

I would do oem next time I need an exhaust on my new rig.