Normal Oil Pressure on Gauge for 1HD-T?

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Joined
Apr 3, 2006
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1,727
Location
Laurentians North of Montreal, QC
Well Folks,

It seems the search feature doesn't like to look for whole sentences so I can't come with any intelligent answers to my querry "Oil Pressure Gauge"...

So here it is: On my first trip home in my new HDJ81, I noticed the oil pressure at the dash gauge is very low (lower third). It goes from almost nothing at idle to a max of 1/3 mark.

The engine is NOT making any weird sounds, (there is a slight valve 'tick-tick-tick-tick and that's it' during the first seconds after starting but no knocking or any other sounds during normal operation, but it does seem to lack a bit of pep (I was expecting better) as it took a while to reach 120 kph, and I felt it didn't really want to get any faster. It does sit very high off the ground (I figure about 6'4") with its Bridgestone Dueller A/T 285/75/R16 tires (which grip asphalt perfectly well BTW).

Although I was driving at night, I did not see any smoke coming out form the tailpipe.

Has anyone seen this behaviour before? Could it be the sensor is a bit off? Any quick pointers on how to check engine oil pressure on this engine before I look at it tomorrow morning?

The truck at 15 years of age has less than 70,000 documented km, and I've got documents in Japanese with undecipherable checklists checked at about every 5,000 km, should someone have an idea or volunteer his/her help to translate :)

Oh and no need to convince me anymore, I am definitely going to get the BEBs done, better be safe than sorry...

Any ideas?

Thanks for your help!

Chris
 
both my hdj and my dads show the same. i believe it's normal for stock gauges.
 
The gauge and sensor are notoriously inaccurate.
The only real way to ascertain if your oil pressure is up to specs is to unplug the sensor and fit a hired/bought mechanics type oil pressure gauge and do the tests outlined in the manual.
If you can 60 psi at 2500 for 2 mins when warmed its good.(from memory)

Or you could 2 things that are both cheap and easy.
1 Replace the sensor,it is found on 27 other Toyotas
2 Change the oil. As the oil breaks down it lowers the oil pressure.
JDM vehicles are notorious for arriving with bad oil;)

Usually the dash gauge should show 1/2-2/3 at 2000 rpm.

The time to worry is when you get exceptionally high readings when cold that drop away to nothing after 10 mins as the engine warms up.
It often means the main bearings are shot (not beb )

Congatulations on your new cruiser. I would recommend a complete going over and a change of all fluids.
The lack of power maybe an injector or fuel pump setting related issue.
There is an interesting article on the settings on the fuel pump and how to get the most power on 80scool
 
what i find is the lack of power, that truck should rocket to 140 even 160 with very little effort.
dumb question, you did pop the hood and see the turbo under there right? you bought a HDJ81 and not a HZJ81 correct? what boost pressure are you running?
 
Wow! Thank you, Guys!!! :)

61ihc said:
both my hdj and my dads show the same. i believe it's normal for stock gauges. The gauge and sensor are notoriously inaccurate. Can the standard gauges.

That's reassuring and seems to be the right assessment in this case. Here are some details, after observing yesterday and this morning (two runs)

Hot: gauge goes all the way to just about the first 1/3 mark on the road at 2000 RPM, drops to just above the bottom mark when idling.

Cold this morning: goes a bit above 1/3 while on the road, drops to just above 1/2 of the lower third at idle. At 3,000 RPM, it can almost reach the middle of the second third on the gauge if I hold the RPMs there for a few seconds.

Am I making any sense?

And there are no weird sounds coming from the engine. It seems to run very evenly.

roscoFJ73 said:
The time to worry is when you get exceptionally high readings when cold that drop away to nothing after 10 mins as the engine warms up.
It often means the main bearings are shot (not beb )

I believe my observation does not show such a wide variation. It looks fairly normal to me (the range of motion), except for the fact the motion is very limited, as if it needed a 50% boost in upward movement. Is there such an adjustment on the electronics of the gauge? I looked in the engine compartment and can hardly see any wires, could not locate the oil sender. I don't have a manual yet.

Another thing: the oil pressure light shuts itself off very quickly when starting. What is the cutoff pressure for this sensor? Does this engine have a low engine pressure engine cut-off like on the 3B?

crushers said:
what i find is the lack of power, that truck should rocket to 140 even 160 with very little effort.

Definitely doesn't rocket. But it does have substantially more power than the old BJ60. After some thought, you may be right about the turbo. It may not be set right.

However, there are a few things to take into account: I'm running Bridgestone Dueler AT 285/75R16 tires (33" in diameter). Isn't the stock size supposed to be 235/75R15 (29 inches or so)? That could explain the lack of torque, and the speed discrepancy.

Secondly, there are 3 mufflers in line under there. There is also a noticeable kink in the exhaust pipe just above the rear axle, as if it was bent by accident. And the pipe diameter is only 2" or so. Couldn't this explain the situation?

Finally, I noticed that the throttle doesn't go all the way when the pedal is down to the floor. That could explain why I really have to stomp it to produce kick down. The extra movement is not much, however. We're talking maybe another 15 degrees of rotation here (guestimated at the engine throttle cable quarter circle cable pulley).

And, this truck was apparently bought at Tokyo Toyota, with average 5,000 yearly km. I surmise it was probably never driven any faster than 80 kph. There is a stainless steel pintle hook and hitch in the back that looks like it was never used, and a bed in the trunk that looks like it was maybe used a couple of times, if that. The aluminum barbecue (!) looks like it was never used... There are many other signs that it didn't leave the garage much. There's even a freezer with a couple of ice trays that scream, "I've been sitting here for years waiting to make ice!"... Seriously, it looks like it left the showroom this spring. Only the water not beading perfectly on the paint tells you it's more than 6 months old. There is not a pockmark, not a gravel scratch or any other scratches that I could see.

crushers said:
dumb question, you did pop the hood and see the turbo under there right? you bought a HDJ81 and not a HZJ81 correct? what boost pressure are you running?

Dumb question all right ;) but seriously, of course there is. I gave my specs to the importer before any bidding happened: "I want lockers all around and it must be the turbo model, in the best auction grade you can find with the lowest mileage". It was graded 4B, and I saw only a couple of pictures of it when I had the importer bid on my behalf. The lockers engage and disengage without problems, but I won't know how well they work in snow or ice until I try, as I couldn't even turn the wheels when everything was locked.

The turbo seems to spools very nicely, but it's hard to even notice its sound when you're in the cab. The interior is extremely well soundproofed. Like a limo!!! It also handles very, very well on the bad roads here. That was my biggest surprise, actually. Extremely well! I discovered also that it comes with an adjustable suspension! The suspension can be set for 'normal' and for 'sport' at the flick of a switch - the 'sport' mode seems to reduce suspension travel, feels better to me that way. How does it work? Hydraulics?

As for boost pressure, how can I measure it? I can see a green light on the left side of the gauge coming up around 1,500 to 1,800 RPM or so depending on how I press the throttle.

I tell you, everything inside works, as it should. Heated seats, electric windows, sunroof, mirrors, climate control hot and cold (tried both), it all works. Only the radio is no good (one station only, wish there was an easy electronic fix (like a frequency range mod).

As much as I love my old tractor, this limousine is really starting to grow on me :)

I'm now looking at changing the engine oil and filter. Any advice, type and brand of oil, is there any commonly available oil filter equivalent I could get locally?

Thanks again, Guys, for your invaluable help. It is extremely precious and appreciated :) Without you, I probably would have never gotten into this importation adventure in the first place.
 
for your peace of mind, my HDJ-80 95 do more less the same thing in the oil press gauge.

In the mid at cold start, when it warms up keep ( at idle ) down the first mark .. I thought in the midle of the first mark and floor mark ..

I reach ( with 285 also ) 140 easy .. I thought more is a little bit more complicated, anycase I don't like the feeling more than 120 km/h
 
Another thing: the oil pressure light shuts itself off very quickly when starting. What is the cutoff pressure for this sensor? Does this engine have a low engine pressure engine cut-off like on the 3B?

Secondly, there are 3 mufflers in line under there. There is also a noticeable kink in the exhaust pipe just above the rear axle, as if it was bent by accident. And the pipe diameter is only 2" or so. Couldn't this explain the situation?

.

The pressure sensor is on the left hand side,passengers to you ,just in front of the starter and 75 mm above the oil pan. Its round,about 40mm dia and has a brass coating.
Ill thinkyou ll do better with a oil change 1st. It used to add 10% or more to the pressure on the gauge of my old 3F.

The light that goes out it probably the low oil level sensor and it is probably working ok if it goes off when you start up.
It plugs into the side of the oil pan although Im not 100% sure yours will have it,as the 75 series didnt get it until 94? Maybe the 80 series got it earlier.
The oil level sensor is a $400 part and is Toyota only:mad:

If there is a kink in the exhaust it will affect the spooling of the turbo which = lost power

Sounds like you got a really nice landcruiser,something worth hanging onto.
So where are the ^%&^(* pics:D
 
The pressure sensor is on the left hand side,passengers to you ,just in front of the starter and 75 mm above the oil pan. Its round,about 40mm dia and has a brass coating.

OK! Got it... :). It is physically slightly different from the one on the old 3B, although it is possibly similar in operation (a pressure diaphragm with variable resistor attached to it). Hmmm. I'll look into it (measure with an ohmmeter). If one from a 3B can be fitted, (emay be simply a connector thing) I'll be happy :)

Ill thinkyou ll do better with a oil change 1st. It used to add 10% or more to the pressure on the gauge of my old 3F.

That's true. No need for endlessly arguing. If I find a filter tomorrow morning, I'll be doing the oil change tomorrow right after that. We'll see what happens then.

The light that goes out it probably the low oil level sensor and it is probably working ok if it goes off when you start up.

It works for sure, but I wonder what is the pressure cut-off of the switch in that sender? On some engines, when the light comes on, it's to tell you your engine is seized... Hopefully it is meant more as warning on this engine. I'm simply trying to get a sense of what minimum oil pressure I'm really running. Remember, I haven't installed a mechanical gauge yet, and dont have electrical specs for the oil pressure gauge sender either.

It plugs into the side of the oil pan although Im not 100% sure yours will have it,as the 75 series didnt get it until 94? Maybe the 80 series got it earlier.
The oil level sensor is a $400 part and is Toyota only:mad:

I took one apart several years ago. It was simply a pressure diaphragm (corrugated metal) with a little lever and a cursor sliding over a flat coil of resistance wire. Very simple and durable construction, unless the diphragm gets bent or deformed.

If there is a kink in the exhaust it will affect the spooling of the turbo which = lost power

That's my assessment as well. Got to fix that for sure...

Sounds like you got a really nice landcruiser,something worth hanging onto.
So where are the ^%&^(* pics:D

Would love to, it would only take me like 16 hours to upload to the site, thanks to our Great Telephone Company who REFUSES to give us high speed interenet eventhough we have fiber optic lines on the telephone poles AND the fact that I am situated less only about 200m from the local central!!! (I hear that if I pay them $40,000 upfront, they will connect me, can you believe it?!)

Repeat after me: I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA I HATE BELL CANADA

Got the idea?! :mad:

Anyway, I will make a selection and post some pictures in the next few days. Whereabouts should I post them? I don't want to annoy those who don't have broadband with pages that take 10 minutes and more to load...

Thanks for your input, m8! :)

Chris
 
It works for sure, but I wonder what is the pressure cut-off of the switch in that sender? On some engines, when the light comes on, it's to tell you your engine is seized... Hopefully it is meant more as warning on this engine. I'm simply trying to get a sense of what minimum oil pressure I'm really running. Remember, I haven't installed a mechanical gauge yet, and dont have electrical specs for the oil pressure gauge sender either.



I took one apart several years ago. It was simply a pressure diaphragm (corrugated metal) with a little lever and a cursor sliding over a flat coil of resistance wire. Very simple and durable construction, unless the diphragm gets bent or deformed.







Would love to, it would only take me like 16 hours to upload to the site, thanks to our Great Telephone Company who REFUSES to give us high speed interenet eventhough we have fiber optic lines on the telephone poles AND the fact that I am situated less only about 200m from the local central!!! (I hear that if I pay them $40,000 upfront, they will connect me, can you believe it?!)

Note the the oil level sensor and the oil pressure sensor are completely different.
Minimum pressure would be 5-10 psi warm,its roughly the same in all engines regardless of cc,thats why they can use the same pressure sensor on 27 models.
I think it maxs out at about 70psi or therabouts
The oil level sensor has some very fine pieces of wire close together. I guess while a small amount of electricity can pass through the oil its ok and the light stays off.

And remember all phone companies are bastards.;)
 
Note the the oil level sensor and the oil pressure sensor are completely different.
Minimum pressure would be 5-10 psi warm,its roughly the same in all engines regardless of cc,thats why they can use the same pressure sensor on 27 models.
I think it maxs out at about 70psi or therabouts
The oil level sensor has some very fine pieces of wire close together. I guess while a small amount of electricity can pass through the oil its ok and the light stays off.)

OK I'm talking the third gauge from the left on the dash, if it's any help - It lights up when the key is on, turns off when the engine has started. It looks like an engine with oil and a little squiggly symbol in it. Would that be the oil LEVEL sensor?

Still so much to learn!

Gotta run, I have to get to a job - First one with the new truck :)

Thanks as always, your input is very appreciated. I hope to be able to give back soon what I've been so generously offered :)

Chris
 
Congrats - pretty nifty toy's in these things hey? Did you find a factory flare on the front pass. side wall?

You can find FM Band Expanders on ebay very cheap - the stereo in my rig is hilarious - awesome cd player though every button has a retro video game sound (space invaders, pac man etc.. ) and I plugged my cell phone into the handsfree feature - works like a dream. For now I get the weather station on FM which is fine - you can also set an mp3 with a broadcaster through these stereos -most mp3's also have radios so thats the cheapest route to go.

Happy Wheeling!!
 
.. fit yourself in an oil pressure gauge ahead of your shifter - very accurate and not expensive.

I think I'll try to get that issue sorted out first. I actually already have a generic mechanical gauge. We'll see what gives.

Today, 5C outside when I left, almost 1/2 on the oil gauge at high rev, just above 1/3 mark at idle.
Hot, after 30 minutes at 110kph, just about right on the 1/3 mark at high rev and about half that at idle.

Looks a bit like so, if I flatten the gauge ("<--" is the needle):

Code:
[FONT="Lucida Console"],--
|
|--
|  [COLOR="DarkOrange"][B]<--[/B][/COLOR] cold cruising at 2200RPM
|--[COLOR="DarkOrange"][B]<--[/B] [/COLOR]cold idling, hot at 2200RPM
|  [COLOR="DarkOrange"][B]<--[/B][/COLOR] hot idling
'--[/FONT]
 
Cheap Mod for your stock gauge

I think I'll try to get that issue sorted out first. I actually already have a generic mechanical gauge. We'll see what gives.

Today, 5C outside when I left, almost 1/2 on the oil gauge at high rev, just above 1/3 mark at idle.
Hot, after 30 minutes at 110kph, just about right on the 1/3 mark at high rev and about half that at idle.

Looks a bit like so, if I flatten the gauge ("<--" is the needle):

Code:
[FONT=Lucida Console],--[/FONT]
[FONT=Lucida Console]|[/FONT]
[FONT=Lucida Console]|--[/FONT]
[FONT=Lucida Console]|  [COLOR=darkorange][B]<--[/B][/COLOR] cold cruising at 2200RPM[/FONT]
[FONT=Lucida Console]|--[COLOR=darkorange][B]<--[/B] [/COLOR]cold idling, hot at 2200RPM[/FONT]
[FONT=Lucida Console]|  [COLOR=darkorange][B]<--[/B][/COLOR] hot idling[/FONT]
[FONT=Lucida Console]'--[/FONT]


Hi there - hope this link helps. I can't say if the mod will have the same effect on the HDJ's but can't see why not?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=64252&highlight=temp+mod
 
Scan10016-1.jpg
:D
 
I think I'll try to get that issue sorted out first. I actually already have a generic mechanical gauge. We'll see what gives.

Today, 5C outside when I left, almost 1/2 on the oil gauge at high rev, just above 1/3 mark at idle.
Hot, after 30 minutes at 110kph, just about right on the 1/3 mark at high rev and about half that at idle.

Looks a bit like so, if I flatten the gauge ("<--" is the needle):

Code:
[FONT="Lucida Console"],--
|
|--
|  [COLOR="DarkOrange"][B]<--[/B][/COLOR] cold cruising at 2200RPM
|--[COLOR="DarkOrange"][B]<--[/B] [/COLOR]cold idling, hot at 2200RPM
|  [COLOR="DarkOrange"][B]<--[/B][/COLOR] hot idling
'--[/FONT]


It doesnt mean much as it doesnt tell you how much pressure its making.
If you put another toyota gauge/sensor the needle may be in a differnt spot.
The only way is to measure it with a good mechanical gauge.
 
Note the the oil level sensor and the oil pressure sensor are completely different.
Minimum pressure would be 5-10 psi warm,its roughly the same in all engines regardless of cc,thats why they can use the same pressure sensor on 27 models.

I looked at the sensor on the BJ60, and it is slightly different in shape. Are you saying it is electrically identical or at least similar? In that case no big deal, I'll swap one with the other and make an electrical wire mod.

BTW, Broadband is GRRREAT! (they have it at the inlaws, what a breeze!)
 
I looked at the sensor on the BJ60, and it is slightly different in shape. Are you saying it is electrically identical or at least similar? In that case no big deal, I'll swap one with the other and make an electrical wire mod.

BTW, Broadband is GRRREAT! (they have it at the inlaws, what a breeze!)

I dont know about the B oil sender. Ive only looked at 1HZ 1HD T 2H 3F and some of the Toyota cars like Corrola and Camry 4cyl and they have the same.

I would hire a mechanical gauge and find the exact pressure in PSI;)
 
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