No Oil Pressure

[eaj71]

Put distriubutor back in, seems like it is seated right,, but perhaps not, starts pretty good though...


no oil pressure.

79/FJ40

any thoughts on diagnosis process, My guess is that it somehow it is not seated right, but strats right up, so is it the sending unit, gauge was working fine last time.

tend to thinf it is a seating issue, any thoughts...

eaj71

 

[Outback]

Yes!!!!!!!!! It's a seating issue!!!!!!!!!! I locked up my "F" due to this, so don't do as I did.

Pull the dist out and look in the hole with a light to see the oil pump down there. Clock your dist so that you know it will engage. As you are putting the dist in, hold the rotor and "feel" the shaft engage the oil pump. You will also notice a solid "bump" as the o-ring seats in the block. No matter what, don't run your engine anymore than you have to when checking for oil pressure.

If your gauge does not show pressure after 5 SECONDS, shut it down and try again. You are killing your engine with every start that does not pump oil. If you can't get it after a few tries, call someone to help. Sometimes it takes someone else doing it "their way" to get it to seat. I know.

Good luck. You can do this, just be careful.

Jody.

 

[Romer]

I locked mine as well. make sure the wire to yoursending unit did not get knocked off. Its easy with it right there. If your using the same dizzy it should be flush to the firewall. If your using an HEI, you might need to change the clamp. Make sure noting is obstrucying it like the heater hose, etc.

You can check to make sure the sender is working by taking a long screw driver, breaking off the handle and putting it in a drill. With the ignition on, place the screwdriver into the oil pump and turn on the drill. You should see the pressure gauge go up. If you have tried to start it for a bit, you might want to do this anyways to get oil in the system.

 

[Gundy]

I agree. It's not seated fully. As for oil pressure readings....the stock gauge
just plain stinks! It roughly indicates pressure. I'm a big fan of mechanical
gauges. One of the best things I did for my old 40 was to install after market
mechanical gauges. Water temp and oil pressure are far too important to be
left to those old wonky stock units guessimates. They are better than just idiot lights,
but not by much. IMHO

 

[Magoo]

man this sounds familiar,cant imagine why.
shawn

 

[eaj71]

distrib oil pump seating

I have heard and felt a klnk when the dis. is installed and feels like it is in, king of snapping in and cannot be withdrawn too easily..

however, it appears that there is about 1/4 " lip between the shaft hole and thge dizzy that isnt quite goin all the way down, but it looks like it should...?

but still no oil pressue...

comments????

 

[IDave]

That 1/4 inch means it isn't in.

 

[Ian Rogers]

when i put my disy in i simply alling it you would 1st cylinder at TDC on the compressin stroke. this will in sure that the timming is right. Then take a remote starter switch and while cranking the engin over apply downward pressure to the distributer( this is with the igniton off) the disrtibutor will fall in to place befor it can get all the way around. note this is only 1/2 a rotation on the crank, as the cam spins 2 times faster then the crank. once you fire it up as allways check the gauge.

Also, i recomend having the valve cover off, you will see oil coming out over the rocker arms. And no better time to adjust the valves.

 

[Romer]

I still think you should prime the pump (screwdriver/drill) before cranking to avoid any damage. believe me. I siezed my engine sitting in the garage doing just what you are doing. You are damaginf your rod and main bearings without oil. Primeing it will get oil in their without cranking the engine.

Ken

 

[eaj71]

install dis oil compression

Will use the screwdriver trick , this will also test the gauge...

On observation, I have had to remove my oil filter a couple of times to get at the dist. bolt, each time oil poured out, my sense is that the oil pump was engaged otherwise there would be no oil in the filter each time...thoughts?


Any tips on cranking the engine would be helpful as the radiator is all in and cant easily get to the nut to turn the engine...

thanks
eric

 

[CruisinGA]

If the dizzy is not all the way down, the oil pump is not turning, and you have a potentially disastrous situation. Do the screwdriver test before you start the engine again.

Grab the belts and fan (if no fan clutch) and you should be able to turn it over. I also believe it is possible to get to the crank bolt with a breaker bar and socket with the rad installed. Removing spark plugs makes hand cranking much easier (no more compression)

 

[Romer]

You can use a screwdriver or crowbar from above or underneath to hand crank the engine. Here is a post I wrote sveral months ago on how to install a dizzy. Just hand turning the engine till you see the ball only gives you a 50 50 shot of getting to top dead center:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=18700

 

[eaj71]

oil pressue

I inserted a screwdrver bit with my drill and cranked tthe oil pump,

no oil pressure, tend to think it is a sending unit. Accidentially did not put the Oil Filer back on prior to procedure... needless to say oil came a flowing.

will get new Sending unit and install prior to further attempts to run...


eaj71

 

[Romer]

Did you check the wire? Hard to believe the sending unit failed between the time you pulled the old one out. The wire for the sending unit (on mine anyways) ran from the bundle nar the starter to the sending unit. When I first pulled my dizzy, I ended up breaking the wire right at the connector. Might also check the gauge. Take the sending unit off and I can't remember if you tie it to 12V or gnd (niether will hurt it) and see if the gauge moves.

 

[eaj71]

oil pressue

Will check wires again, but I made sur ethese were all fixed on real good. will double check grounding, who knows. the littlest thing can cause such a pain in the rear.

eaj71

 

[dv_fj40]

OUCH... did the same thing. BRAND NEW REBUILT F ENGINE and did not seat the dist. down all the way. Took it around the block and - well, CAR-BQ engine. Strange - when I installed my 2F engine in last month - oil pressure was highest on my list. In fact, like an idiot, I thought the oil sending port was the same as the F engine (driver's side of engine block.) When I got no oil pressure - started to think I did something wrong. Make a long story short - I removed the oil pan, oil pump and checked everything - only after I posted here did I realize where the new oil sending port was: on the oil fliter bracket. Installed the gauge there and problem was gone.

 

[CruisinGA]

Might also check the gauge. Take the sending unit off and I can't remember if you tie it to 12V or gnd (niether will hurt it) and see if the gauge moves.

Tie it to ground with ign key on.

 

[IDave]

Whether your gauge is working or not, if the dizzy was 1/4 inch above fully seated, you were out.

--one who KNOWs!

 

[eaj71]

oil pressue

Thanks for all the help...the wire from the sending unit was frayed, but not brokedn so it looked like it was on, but no signal was getting to the gauge. I replaced it and suddenly got oil pressue using my drill and a screwdriver.

I reinstalled the dizzy following the instructions (from CCOT) below w/out the little light as discussed. Fired over right away, .

all is well!!

A: This can be frustrating but you just have to be patient and methodical. First set your points gap at .018 I believe it is, but check your manual to be sure.....wait, if you have electronic ignition then you don't have points. To set your timing, line up what you called the oval O or it is also called the BB with the pointer in the window. I can only tell you how to do it if you have points. Your rotor should be pointed at about the #4 sparkplug and you should see one of the cam lobes close to opening the points, either just short of it or just past it. Put your distributor cap on and check that the rotor is pointing at the terminal that the #1 plug wire is connected to. Then rotate the distributor until that cam lobe is just coming up to open the points and the points are just starting to open. You need to hook a test lamp or a multimeter across the points so that when the points are open the light is off or the meter is showing an open circuit. Rotate the distributor back (counter clockwise)so that the points are closed (the light is on) and then slowly rotate it clockwise until the light just goes off. You'll get the hang of it. With it timed staticall like this it should start up and run ok but not necessarily great. Put your strobe light on it and set it that way. If it won't start or is running real rough, repeat the point opening adjustment drill. 'Course now you get to try to find that BB again.

 

[Romer]

Glad all is well. You certainaly are more patient then I was. I broke my wire and figured I ouldn't need that while I was finishing the dizzy install. Boy was I WRONG!

At least you didn't have to replace the sending unit.

Ken