The doom and gloom is because you ran without oil pressure. It doesn't take long at all to destroy valves or spin the bearings. I'm not against diagnosing it, but I've had bad experiences with engines and no oil. I burned one up from running it less than 3 minutes without pressure.
no oil pressure... fml
- Thread starter UWdave
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- #23
http://www.facebook.com/v/1243140688230
Facebook videos don't seem to embed on mud.
I'm no professional mechanic, but this doesn't seem right.
Facebook videos don't seem to embed on mud.
I'm no professional mechanic, but this doesn't seem right.
<object width="400" height="300" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/1243140688230" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/1243140688230" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="400" height="300"></embed></object>
Hmmm
.... very cryptic. 
Hmmm
.... very cryptic. - Thread starter
- #25
<object width="400" height="300" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/1243140688230" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/1243140688230" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="400" height="300"></embed></object>
Hmmm
Search for the "http://www. " part. That's where the good stuff is.
Please let me know if the new link works. Anybody else have advise on facebook video links?
- Thread starter
- #28
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Seems unlikely. the motor was run with no oil pressure. So what actually failed?
Thanks for posting follow up. Once you figure out what broke, please post it up.
Dang.
The oil pump is inside the timing cover. That is the gear that drives the oil pump and power steering pump. That is the gear that rides in the "un-obtainium" bushing in the block.
That motor is probably toast.
- Thread starter
- #31
I respect your opinion. However, I'm still not willing to drop +1k on a "probably".
Based on the FSM, it looks like this gear is held in place by the oil pump. The gear on the crank seems fine.
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OK, I can't open up the facebook thing. So someone help me with what it showed and what the latest here is.
- Thread starter
- #33
The gear my finger is on has about 1/8" to 1/4" of play to it.
The FSM calls it the "oil pump drive shaft gear". The one above it in the photo is the "pump drive shaft gear".
The "oil pump drive shaft gear" appears to fit onto some feature on the block and be held in place by the oil pump/chain cover. I hypothesis, that the "oil pump drive rotor" is damaged and is no longer holding this gear in place.
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
This is the first failure of this type ever posted. Too bad it had to happen to you, but it may be instructive to some future 80 owner. Very interesting and the best thread on mud in some time.
If that's the gear that rides on the brass bushing, then the bushing has come apart. Since for all real intents and purposes, that bushing is unavailable, you need a new motor anyway. Plus, running even a short way without pressure, is fatal, and you will be money and time ahead just replacing it with a good used one.
If you are determined to save this motor, get a look at the rod bearings. If they look good and plastigage OK, maybe you can save the short block. With noise in the head, the cams are toast-remember they don't really have bearings, and ride directly on the aluminum structure of the head.
Search for some old posts by dtaylor about the oil pump bushing. He was able to get one made and posted a source for them.
Can you tell us what motor oil you were running, what filter, and what the motor was doing in the 30 minutes before you developed this problem.
If that's the gear that rides on the brass bushing, then the bushing has come apart. Since for all real intents and purposes, that bushing is unavailable, you need a new motor anyway. Plus, running even a short way without pressure, is fatal, and you will be money and time ahead just replacing it with a good used one.
If you are determined to save this motor, get a look at the rod bearings. If they look good and plastigage OK, maybe you can save the short block. With noise in the head, the cams are toast-remember they don't really have bearings, and ride directly on the aluminum structure of the head.
Search for some old posts by dtaylor about the oil pump bushing. He was able to get one made and posted a source for them.
Can you tell us what motor oil you were running, what filter, and what the motor was doing in the 30 minutes before you developed this problem.
- Thread starter
- #35
I bought the truck in May '09 with 181k. I was the 3rd owner and there was a fairly good record of oil changes etc.
I replaced the oil with M1 10w40 and an OEM large filter.
I had just spent about 45 minutes climbing Snoqaulmie Pass in Washington State. I run 35s with stock gearing. The rig was fairly well loaded with 2 passengers and fair bit of water, tools, gear, and beer. I'd been running with OD off for all uphill sections. I'd made it over the pass and was heading down for about 10 minutes when lost power and lights came on.
I replaced the oil with M1 10w40 and an OEM large filter.
I had just spent about 45 minutes climbing Snoqaulmie Pass in Washington State. I run 35s with stock gearing. The rig was fairly well loaded with 2 passengers and fair bit of water, tools, gear, and beer. I'd been running with OD off for all uphill sections. I'd made it over the pass and was heading down for about 10 minutes when lost power and lights came on.
- Thread starter
- #36
Read more about this silly little bearing. LAME.
I'll pull the chain cover and pray for a broken pump shaft. I do understand that the motor is likely toast, but I'd like to know what the route cause of failure was.
Why, because I'm stubborn and refuse to believe a 180k toyota motor is the first motor I'll ever swap.
My old chevy 350 is looking mighty reliable right now.
I'll pull the chain cover and pray for a broken pump shaft. I do understand that the motor is likely toast, but I'd like to know what the route cause of failure was.
Why, because I'm stubborn and refuse to believe a 180k toyota motor is the first motor I'll ever swap.
My old chevy 350 is looking mighty reliable right now.
What I wonder if it actually lost total pressure and flow or if pressure was just significantly reduced. The reason I ask is that you said the engine never overheated. The lost of oil pressure should have resulted in the engine overheating pretty quickly I think.
Secondly, what actually caused the engine to initially stall? It didn't seize from lack of pressure or overheating. We know that. Plus it restarted right away.
Secondly, what actually caused the engine to initially stall? It didn't seize from lack of pressure or overheating. We know that. Plus it restarted right away.
I said that because a similar engine with a failed oil pump that is DOHC, usually toasts the cams/lifters/valves first before it starts to spin bearings on the crank/rods. The head might still be repairable but would be far cheaper to get another one and rebuild it.
- Thread starter
- #40
Federal Way, WA (between Seattle and Tacoma)
I was driving along and then lost power and lights came on. Engine never stalled. Engine starts right back up even days later. Idles noisily.
I'm pretty sure all flow stopped. (read my previous post about replacing filter, running 30secongs, and the filter still being dry)