no oil pressure... fml

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Is it easy to remove the number 1 and number 2 oil pan without lifting the engine?

Easy, no. Possible, yes.

Nothing extremely hard about getting it disconnected. 6 bolts to trans (FSM says 4), bunch of bolts on the bottom, and a few AC bolts (didn't remove compressor or bracket).

The hard part was sliding the pan out past the cross frame support tube. It was a major PITA. I was about to give up when all of the sudden it slid out.

I should have jacked up the motor but the rig was parked on pea-gravel at the time.
 
if the bore of the block for that bushing is OK, measure it and I can have a bushing made for it. If you need a tool for pressing it in place that won't be a problem either.

The bushing will be made out of navel brass.

How accurate of measurement would you need? I have digital calipers, but measuring the inside of a whole this big always seems like it is hard to do consistently.

Pressing in doesn't seem it would be too hard. I would imagine a little heat on the block, a little dry ice bath for the bushing, and a large bolt with large washers would to the trick.
 
How accurate of measurement would you need? I have digital calipers, but measuring the inside of a whole this big always seems like it is hard to do consistently.

Pressing in doesn't seem it would be too hard. I would imagine a little heat on the block, a little dry ice bath for the bushing, and a large bolt with large washers would to the trick.

I would take several measurements at different cross sections and give me the lowest and highest readings.

I'll call my machinist tomorrow and double check on what he needs to make one for your block.
 
Bushing:
Outer Diameter = 33.01, 32.81, 32.98, 32.92

Side 1 Inner Diameter = 30.08, 29.97, 30.10
Side 2 Inner Diameter = 29.97, 30.09, 29.96

Length = 31.78, 31.72

Oil passage diameter = 7.71
Oil passage location = 13.62 hole edge to side 1, 10.02 from side 2 (13.62+10.02+7.71=31.36, little off length)

Shallow ~1mm oil galley around inner inline with passage

Outer 45deg chamfer, maybe 1mm (measured in length) around both sides

Doesn't look like any measurable inner chamfer


Block Hole Diameter: 32.85, 32.89, 32.84

Gear Bushing Outer Diameter: 33.01, 32.81, 32.98, 32.92

Thoughts:
I was concerned that some bushing outer dimensions were larger than block hole diameters. I double checked my measurements and they were fairly repeatable. The bushing does slide in and out of the whole.
 
Bushing:
Outer Diameter = 33.01, 32.81, 32.98, 32.92

Side 1 Inner Diameter = 30.08, 29.97, 30.10
Side 2 Inner Diameter = 29.97, 30.09, 29.96

Length = 31.78, 31.72

Oil passage diameter = 7.71
Oil passage location = 13.62 hole edge to side 1, 10.02 from side 2 (13.62+10.02+7.71=31.36, little off length)

Shallow ~1mm oil galley around inner inline with passage

Outer 45deg chamfer, maybe 1mm (measured in length) around both sides

Doesn't look like any measurable inner chamfer


Block Hole Diameter: 32.85, 32.89, 32.84

Gear Bushing Outer Diameter: 33.01, 32.81, 32.98, 32.92

Thoughts:
I was concerned that some bushing outer dimensions were larger than block hole diameters. I double checked my measurements and they were fairly repeatable. The bushing does slide in and out of the whole.

I'll pass this info along. He has my bushing to work with as far as getting the details of the bushing correct. He just wants the ID of the bore in the block to match the OD of the bushing properly. It looks like you will need a new drive gear as well.

I'll get you a price on the bushing and he'll probably want a new drive gear to ensure the two mate properly, I can take care of that as well.

Rick
 
Pulled the motor last night.

Removed a crank bearing and it showed signs of wear/galling.

Will have pics tonight.
 
New oil pump, timing chain cover, crank machining, bearings, and possible cylinder/block work added up to quite a bit of $$.

I'm ready to pull the trigger on a '94 w/ 150k for $1300 and 101 day warranty. I'll replace the head gasket, oil pump cover seal, and various accessory type items and call it a day.
 
New oil pump, timing chain cover, crank machining, bearings, and possible cylinder/block work added up to quite a bit of $$.

I'm ready to pull the trigger on a '94 w/ 150k for $1300 and 101 day warranty. I'll replace the head gasket, oil pump cover seal, and various accessory type items and call it a day.

I am going to assume if you replace the head gasket you will void the warrenty?

FYI not sure about the whole bushing thing but I have a engine thats been sitting you could "have" the parts off. ( I would keep the head)

I am in Poulsbo, engine is a 1994 with 200K been sitting for at least 4 years uncovered.
 
I am going to assume if you replace the head gasket you will void the warrenty?

FYI not sure about the whole bushing thing but I have a engine thats been sitting you could "have" the parts off. ( I would keep the head)

I am in Poulsbo, engine is a 1994 with 200K been sitting for at least 4 years uncovered.

Yeah. I actually talked to you last year about your block. That was before unexpected work travel and then ankle surgery that halted any progress for over a month.

If the engine fails while running, then it will be a battle between me and yard. A battle I'll likely lose.

But they will take the motor back if I find something bad during headgasket and pan seal replacement. I'll be looking for metal shavings in the pan, scoring of the cylinder, good crank bearings etc.

I've been following your build/swap and I have nowhere near the skill you have. Luckily I have a few mechanic friends, mud, and the FSM to get me through most things. I've helped change a few Honda heads and am pretty handy, but this will be the closest thing I've done to a complete engine rebuild.

I just did some extra VISA damage with cruiserdan getting all my rebuild parts. Luckily Dan is a rockstar when it comes to helping me figure out everything to buy.
 
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