No CEL light when key is on- doesn’t start

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Joined
Nov 14, 2023
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Location
San Diego
Hello,

I recently purchased a 1996 Land Cruiser Prado TZ. It’s a RHD 5-speed with 1KZ-TE engine. I bought it from reputable dealer on the east coast and had a third party inspection and vehicle worked great. After purchasing I had vehicle shipped to the west coast and upon arrival it did not start. I had to winch it off the car carrier and tow it to my house where it’s been ever since. I had a local mechanic call the spill control relay valve bad so I ordered a new one and we replaced it but still doesn’t start. The mechanic noticed the CEL light doesn’t come on when key turns ignition to on. Is a bad ECM the culprit or could it be a bad EFI or ECD relay? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. I saw in another forum that Mauser has spare ECM’s but not sure if it’s compatible with this model. Thank you all.
 
First things first, check all your fuses. Reseat your relays (checking spade connectors for corrosion/calcification which might reduce connection). The dash lights fuse is in to the right under the steering wheel.

Check connections and earth cables under the hood to starter motor. Earth straps from battery to chassis and engine block to battery etc. Also check the battery condition.

Make sure the neutral switch for the auto transmission shifter is working (autos need to be in neutral or park before they start and theirs a switch in the center console to determine it is in neutral or park).

I doubt it would be the ECU but they can go bad. It's pretty easy to access through the glove box a few screws and you can get into it to check the condition of the board/caps.

Another thought, when you put the key in the ignition, does the red flashing 'door with key overlay' light turn off? Could be the immobilizer not working if it has one. Remove the plastic surround from the ignition and check the plug on the RH side of the ignition barrel is plugged all the way in and hasn't popped off during shipping!

Buy a obd2 Bluetooth dongle off eBay and download the Elmscan Toyota app to check for errors in the ECU. Good tool to keep in your glove box!

See how ya go with all that stuff
 
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If nothing above works consider this???? If it came from Japan it shouldn't have an immobilizer installed but if it came with a second key give that a try or change to battery on the key you are using.
Mine has some switch underneath the steering wheel that if it is in the wrong position my truck won't start. No idea what the purpose of the switch it as it is in plain sight.
 
Thank you both for the speedy replies. I will check all the things mentioned above and let you know how it goes. Additionally I forgot to mention earlier that the turn signals didn’t work either but all other electrical components worked fine.
 
Thank you both for the speedy replies. I will check all the things mentioned above and let you know how it goes. Additionally I forgot to mention earlier that the turn signals didn’t work either but all other electrical components worked fine.
Turn signals (and tail lights) share the same fuse as the dash lights from memory. That's the fuse panel to the right of the steering column. So that could be an easy fix. Not the whole fix though. Lettuce know how you get on!
 
Hey gents,

Checked the fuses and relays by the steering wheel and I didn’t see any corrosion on the connectors. Tried swapping the dash lights and turn signal fuses with other fuses that were already working and still not getting CEL or turn signal lights. Maybe it’s a bad relay?

This cruiser is manual transmission so i don’t know if it still has a neutral switch like the autos do?

With my untrained eye the ECU connectors seem fine to me. Earth straps to battery and starter motor seems fine to me. Battery is a little old and has probably 50% charge but didn’t get the CEL light when jumping the vehicle.

I don’t see an immobilizer switch under the steering wheel and there is no red flashing door with key overlay when ignition goes on.

see below for photo of underneath steering wheel. Not sure what does two dangling connectors in the center are for.

Regardless Thank you for the assistance!
 
Hey gents,

Checked the fuses and relays by the steering wheel and I didn’t see any corrosion on the connectors. Tried swapping the dash lights and turn signal fuses with other fuses that were already working and still not getting CEL or turn signal lights. Maybe it’s a bad relay?

This cruiser is manual transmission so i don’t know if it still has a neutral switch like the autos do?

With my untrained eye the ECU connectors seem fine to me. Earth straps to battery and starter motor seems fine to me. Battery is a little old and has probably 50% charge but didn’t get the CEL light when jumping the vehicle.

I don’t see an immobilizer switch under the steering wheel and there is no red flashing door with key overlay when ignition goes on.

see below for photo of underneath steering wheel. Not sure what does two dangling connectors in the center are for.

Regardless Thank you for the assistance!
 
IMG_6517.webp
 
Hallelujah, i reseated the connections to the ECM and the CEL came on and the Prado started right up. My faith in these beasts have been restored!

The indicators don’t work with the hazards on either. Also the analog clock doesn’t work so idk if the two are related with a relay. Looking at fuse diagram the clock is a separate fuse by steering wheel. Thank you for all the help!

-Wilson
 
Fantastic news mate! What a shame you had to go through all that, but happy for you it's sorted.

Re the indicators, check for faulty bulbs or corrosion in the bulb sockets. If not to bad, give them a rub with some sand paper. Also check the side indicators on the front corner panels. I had one of them blow once and caused some weird behaviors with the indicators. Can't remember the exact symptoms. Double check your fuses. Check with a continuity meter on a digital multimeter. Sometimes they look in tact but theirs a break. Or swap a known good one in. And listen for the indicator click. Should come from up behind the steering column there somewhere. That might give you a clue
 
KiwiBogan,

I thought maybe the flasher relay was bad so I did what this fellow did in the following video:



I put a little sandpaper in between the connection like in the video but still no dice on the flashers working once I put back in. I don’t even hear any clicking. I’m thinking the relay maybe bad but I’ll also check for corrosion in the bulb sockets tomorrow like you said. Thanks for the advice
 
Someone shared an excellent post here recently explaining that those dangling connectors (I'm.surenitnwas those ones) are for the idle up switch?

Do the indicators work with the hazard lights on by chance?
There's a facebook Prado USA group and someone recently confirmed that one of those harnesses is for the idle up switch. They just bought the switch and plugged it in and the function came to life.
 
First things first, check all your fuses. Reseat your relays (checking spade connectors for corrosion/calcification which might reduce connection). The dash lights fuse is in to the right under the steering wheel.

Check connections and earth cables under the hood to starter motor. Earth straps from battery to chassis and engine block to battery etc. Also check the battery condition.

Make sure the neutral switch for the auto transmission shifter is working (autos need to be in neutral or park before they start and theirs a switch in the center console to determine it is in neutral or park).

I doubt it would be the ECU but they can go bad. It's pretty easy to access through the glove box a few screws and you can get into it to check the condition of the board/caps.

Another thought, when you put the key in the ignition, does the red flashing 'door with key overlay' light turn off? Could be the immobilizer not working if it has one. Remove the plastic surround from the ignition and check the plug on the RH side of the ignition barrel is plugged all the way in and hasn't popped off during shipping!

Buy a obd2 Bluetooth dongle off eBay and download the Elmscan Toyota app to check for errors in the ECU. Good tool to keep in your glove box!
@KiwiBogan

Based on your reply, you seem to know what you are talking about. I am having a hardy time finding answers to my problem.
I have this exact problem on a US GX470. Turn the key, if the engine light appears, it starts. Turn the key, if engine light is not present, no start. Sometimes I turn the key, and the engine light comes a few seconds later. It starts then. No error codes and I replaced starter relay, neutral safety switch and ignition switch. Cleaned all ground connections and battery is good on load tester.

A couple questions: what OBDII works with Elmscan Toyota app? I have never used that app. Can it be downloaded to apple iPhone? I suspect I may have a bad ECU, but was trying to verify myself.

Quick question on starter motor. Can a bad starter motor cause the engine light to not appear? That is, does the ECU somehow confirm the starter motor is ready/operational? I replaced the starter motor 3 years ago with a OEM rebuilt unit, but I suppose it could be bad.

Thanks for any help!
 
@KiwiBogan

Based on your reply, you seem to know what you are talking about. I am having a hardy time finding answers to my problem.
I have this exact problem on a US GX470. Turn the key, if the engine light appears, it starts. Turn the key, if engine light is not present, no start. Sometimes I turn the key, and the engine light comes a few seconds later. It starts then. No error codes and I replaced starter relay, neutral safety switch and ignition switch. Cleaned all ground connections and battery is good on load tester.

A couple questions: what OBDII works with Elmscan Toyota app? I have never used that app. Can it be downloaded to apple iPhone? I suspect I may have a bad ECU, but was trying to verify myself.

Quick question on starter motor. Can a bad starter motor cause the engine light to not appear? That is, does the ECU somehow confirm the starter motor is ready/operational? I replaced the starter motor 3 years ago with a OEM rebuilt unit, but I suppose it could be bad.

Thanks for any help!
Possibly key transponder issue?

Had an issue with an old Prado a few years back where the key transponder wire that connects to the side of the ignition barrel with a blade type connector had come loose creating a flaky connection with the same symptoms you're experiencing. However instead of the CEL light, it was a separate key transponder light on the dash that would come on when key is turned then go out once it reads and receives the key. When the wire was disconnected, that light would stay on and the engine wouldn't turn over. It's a long shot but wouldn't hurt to look. Pull the plastic off from under the steering column to get access to the ignition barrel and wiggle the wire on the side of the barrel. Mine looked connected but wiggling it showed it was loose and had mostly slipped off the blade connector. Testing with another key would be a good troubleshooting technique also, in case theirs something wrong with your key and the transponder can't read it.

To answer you question, no the starter motor has nothing to do with the CEL light. I don't think you'll get any codes or dash lights if the starter is bad (which I don't believe it is in this case).

Other than that, I'm not sure man? Maybe pull the ECU out and inspect the board? That's easy enough to do. Ecu should be behind the glovebox somewhere. You don't have to be an electrical engineer to spot damage on the board or something that doesn't quite look right. Plenty of images around the web to reference for swollen or leaky caps which seem to be the main culprit with older ECUs that fail.
 
Possibly key transponder issue?

Had an issue with an old Prado a few years back where the key transponder wire that connects to the side of the ignition barrel with a blade type connector had come loose creating a flaky connection with the same symptoms you're experiencing. However instead of the CEL light, it was a separate key transponder light on the dash that would come on when key is turned then go out once it reads and receives the key. When the wire was disconnected, that light would stay on and the engine wouldn't turn over. It's a long shot but wouldn't hurt to look. Pull the plastic off from under the steering column to get access to the ignition barrel and wiggle the wire on the side of the barrel. Mine looked connected but wiggling it showed it was loose and had mostly slipped off the blade connector. Testing with another key would be a good troubleshooting technique also, in case theirs something wrong with your key and the transponder can't read it.

To answer you question, no the starter motor has nothing to do with the CEL light. I don't think you'll get any codes or dash lights if the starter is bad (which I don't believe it is in this case).

Other than that, I'm not sure man? Maybe pull the ECU out and inspect the board? That's easy enough to do. Ecu should be behind the glovebox somewhere. You don't have to be an electrical engineer to spot damage on the board or something that doesn't quite look right. Plenty of images around the web to reference for swollen or leaky caps which seem to be the main culprit with older ECUs that fail.
Awesome - thank you! I’ll try these suggestions.
 
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