Next Project - Fixing PO Power Steering Debacle

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Downey said:
The Downey mount only goes back into the frame 1.25 to 1.5", your frame is cut back atleast 2". You could weld-in a scab plate behind the Downey mount.
Also look at my P.S. Hose Kit, hoses make an immediate rearward turn and just skim over the top of the frame--below your grille panel.
You could use the larger diameter of my steering shaft on the bottom, and the actual length of the larger O.D. (slip-yoke portion) is trim'able to any length you desire (shorter or longer).
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The downey hose kit make a nice instalation. I am glad to see they are still available!
 
darwink1 said:
A sixty series box mounted outside the frame rail would eliminate a lot of your problems.

D
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That is what I did.....couldn't be happier. You might just want to get a plasma cutter and cut out everything with your steering, fix the frame and just start over.
 
Not familiar with the 60 series setup - do you run into conflicts with the tires/steering? I imagine it would be, basically, in the fender well...
 
You can check my sig line for a couple links

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40
 
I just finished doing this project. I replaced the pos cast iron Downey plate that the PO put on. I used a weld on plate with two through bolts that I sleeved inside the frame horn. BTB sells that plate and they include another to box the passenger side. I used the tube that cruiser outfitters sells to go through the front cross member. Between those repairs and a new 4.25 turn box and hoses from Summit I now have a clean install.
Good luck with yours
Al
1149.webp
 
The 60-series steering is definitely an interesting approach - and well done on that thread, very descriptive! It seems like I'd potentially be trading my manifold clearance issues for shock tower/fender well/ suspension clearance issues though...

While I definitely think this is the route I would have taken if I was starting from scratch, but seeing as this thing already has saginaw steering, and I'll be cutting it all out anyway, I think I'm going to opt for the enemy I know, verse creating some new ones. While my 40 is far from original, I try to avoid taking an angle grinder to the body as often as I can. :meh: In the event someone pries this truck from my cold dead hands, and wants to try and make it original again, I'm trying not to tear it up any worse...
 
albee said:
I just finished doing this project. I replaced the pos cast iron Downey plate that the PO put on. I used a weld on plate with two through bolts that I sleeved inside the frame horn. BTB sells that plate and they include another to box the passenger side. I used the tube that cruiser outfitters sells to go through the front cross member. Between those repairs and a new 4.25 turn box and hoses from Summit I now have a clean install.
Good luck with yours
Al
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Al,

Looking good, man. Hopefully mine turns out that clean.

What is the purpose of boxing the passenger side? I've seen a lot of people recommend this - can these saginaw boxes really pull in the opposite frame horn?
 
Ok folks -

How important is running a power steering cooler? I see this in some builds, but not all of them...to my knowledge, my truck doesn't currently have one - the hoses run straight from the pump, to the box, and back...
 
I think you might have a split crowd on running the fluid cooler. I decided on installing one, and mounted it on the crossmember of the frame. Others have put it with the radiator, others run the stock-ish toyota cooler on the fender. I have never ran mine with out the cooler, so I can't tell you if there was an improvement. Since I do some wheeling in mine, I installed the cooler to help prevent any overheating on the trail.
 
Cool. I think I can probably do without it - not running huge tires or doing anything too crazy off-road. As I said, the current setup doesn't have it and I haven't run into overheating issues yet...
 
If you have problems you can add one later.

I agree to keep with the Saginaw since that's what you already have.
 
kurtnkegger said:
Don't know if you have read this thread....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/273969-my-saginaw-power-steering-swap.html


But is chock full of great information...
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Yep, I have, and it is! That thread has actually been my bible through most of this. Most of my initial questions stemmed from the unique issue of running my steering shaft past the 350, and undoing the damage done to the frame/crossmember. Unfortunately almost very detailed thread I have found on the subject is setting up power steering with the stock F or 2F engine...
 
RWBeringer4x4 said:
Not familiar with the 60 series setup - do you run into conflicts with the tires/steering? I imagine it would be, basically, in the fender well...
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No problems at all with clearance. If the tire turned that far it would hit the frame.
 
Eddy, did you manage to fit a saginaw box next to a PTO winch? I've heard that isn't possible...
 
Pin_Head said:
It is not a PTO; it is an 8274.
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That explains it! Yeah, I missed the top part of it hiding over in the corner of the shot, just saw the big wire spool.
 
Back to a question from earlier:

How important is the scab plate welded to the passenger side frame horn? I've seen this done on some, but not all, Saginaw conversions...Will a Saginaw box really bend the opposite side frame horn? I'd assume the tires would have to be jammed pretty bad to transfer that much force...
 
RWBeringer4x4 said:
Eddy, did you manage to fit a saginaw box next to a PTO winch? I've heard that isn't possible...
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Your first clue was the pto shaft hole, in the cross member, at the center of the picture, with no pto shaft in it. ;)
 
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