New vendor "Bowfin Cruisers" and new 80 series roof rack option

cody c

 
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I like that you have slots along the rack versus round holes. I was using mine last week and getting tie down hooks and bungee cords in them with a RTT that overlapped past was difficult, would have been easier with slots, though they would shift around more. Maybe I'll add vertical notches from the bottom side of the holes.

Have you thought about selling extensions for mounting hi-lifts and shovels and all that crap? Seems like folks like to bolt gear on and want solid mounts.
 

dogfishlake

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I like that you have slots along the rack versus round holes. I was using mine last week and getting tie down hooks and bungee cords in them with a RTT that overlapped past was difficult, would have been easier with slots, though they would shift around more. Maybe I'll add vertical notches from the bottom side of the holes.

Have you thought about selling extensions for mounting hi-lifts and shovels and all that crap? Seems like folks like to bolt gear on and want solid mounts.
The stainless steel double washers I have made keep the rails very solid in thier chosen location, and are an added measure against the fastener wanting to pull through. As an added form follows function bonus, they look cool too!

Quick fist brand clamps work well for adding items. You just need those and some 10 series t-nuts/1/4" bolts to mount them. There is a package of extra bolts and t-nuts included with all racks now to get people a jump start.

Here's a link to the quick fist clamps.
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Quick-Fist-mounting-equipment/dp/B000CQPANY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539120639&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=quick+fist+clamps&dpPl=1&dpID=41mQlgTaV8L&ref=plSrch
 

dogfishlake

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Hey Patrick are you still running a few weeks back on orders for 80 racks? Also don't forget the other wind deflector.
Yours will be going out this week. Extra deflector will be with it. I will pm or email when I am ready to ship the rack out.

Thanks!
 
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has anyone put one of the Thule or Yakima boxes on their Bowfin rack? interested to know if it works as most of the boxes are a little recessed where they clamp to the cross bars normally. Wanting to know if it'll still clamp on with all the Bowfin bars still in place.
 

dogfishlake

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Yakima is starting to embrace this style clamp, which is a big help for the Bowfin racks as on of the built in profiles is EXACTLY 1X2 like the cross bars. Perfect fit. I have the Jaylow kayak racks and they are perfect. The tent mounts have that system too.
yakima_evenkeel_kayak_rack_cross_bar_clamp.gif
 
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The flat area is basically 51" wide by 80" long. The end of the side rails are right to the back of the roof but the rear crossbar is in a few inches from that. The spoiler is short of the side rails when the hatch is open. The intention of the large hole in the back of the sides is for a roller for helping to get items (canoe) up there. There is room for a 3" bumper roller across the back while still leaving room if the hatch (with spoiler) is open.
Patrick could you put up a pic of what you're thinking of using for the canoe roller at the back of the rack? you mentioned a 3-inch bumper roller whatever that is? thanks
 

dogfishlake

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Patrick could you put up a pic of what you're thinking of using for the canoe roller at the back of the rack? you mentioned a 3-inch bumper roller whatever that is? thanks
The set up will be a bushing through the large rear hole on the side panels (they were indeed intended for more than looks!), a 5/8" diameter rod across the back supported in its center by a bracket from the rear cross bar to reduce sag. The rollers are rubber, originally made for a boat trailer. There will be lock collars for the ends and likely some sort of back up pin for double safety so as not to have it come off on the road.

I have quickly tested it on my 80 and my 100, but I intend for it to work on the fj60,f(z)j80 and UZJ100 racks as well as the soon-to-be-here fj40 and fj55 racks.

I have just a couple of teaser pics so far
I did this morning before my daughter took off with my 80. Hers is in getting a new exhaust so I'm short on proper test subjects at the moment.
Anyway it is butter smooth and crazy easy to roll a canoe up top.
 

dogfishlake

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The roller will not work with the factory rear wing on there. The rear wing clears the rack just fine otherwise, but it does have to go if the roller is your plan.
 

dogfishlake

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I had intended to also make this for getting a roof top tent up there easily, and it could still help but there is no way to avoid sliding over the rear of the roof somewhat.
The break point for length on my truck with 4" ish of lift and 35's is 12' long to hit the roller, the ground, and NOT touch the roof. It will work great for shorter kayaks and such I suspect but you would be resting the bow on the painted part of the roof while walking around to the stern to pick it up and roll it on.
20181027_091052.jpg
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I had intended to also make this for getting a roof top tent up there easily, and it could still help but there is no way to avoid sliding over the rear of the roof somewhat.
The break point for length on my truck with 4" ish of lift and 35's is 12' long to hit the roller, the ground, and NOT touch the roof. It will work great for shorter kayaks and such I suspect but you would be resting the bow on the painted part of the roof while walking around to the stern to pick it up and roll it on.
View attachment 1818597 View attachment 1818598
That’s 12-ft minimum length of canoe / kayak to NOT rest on the rear of the roof before you roll it onto the rack right? most canoes at least are 15-16 ft and most kayaks start at 10 or so...
 

dogfishlake

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That’s 12-ft minimum length of canoe / kayak to NOT rest on the rear of the roof before you roll it onto the rack right? most canoes at least are 15-16 ft and most kayaks start at 10 or so...
Yes, correct. Many probably wouldn't mind setting on the truck but many would.
 

dogfishlake

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The curve of my canoe would require me to put a pad under the front bar to keep it off of the wind deflector as well. Front and rear pads are ideal for a soft interface anyway.
 
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Why not make a couple extension brackets that move the roller rearward? Bolt through the existing hole and x-member slot.
 
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