New to the FJ60 world, come share my pain

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Just a quickie update on things. I've been driving it everyday since getting it back and I'm loving it. Now that I have over 1000 miles on it I've been stretching it out a little bit more. PLENTY-O-POWER! Its amazing what an entire rebuilt drivetrain feels like. Couple little things to do to it but mainly I want to get it to a point that I can start playing with it on expeditions during the summer for those weekends that I am in town.

I was seriously considering rhino-lining the entire floor black but after talking to Dynosoar I'm kinda rethinking it and may go with cruisercrap butyl then padding and then upgraded carpeting. I thinking that may be the direction but that can wait for the time being.

The next projects are:
• Install Full Float rear axle, install Aussie (or maybe Spartan) locker and rebuild rear brakes. The idea is to get the axle looking perty.
• Paint the undercoating and frame of the truck
• Rebuild the entire front axle, rebuilt hubs and upgrade brakes
• A/C, hmm yeah that first

All of these may be individual projects. We'll see. I need to hunt down all of the kit that I need to make this happen. On the search for an FJ62 complete rear axle so that I get the 4:10 gears and FF love. Georg...are your ears burning? I will be bugging you later.
 
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Don't do the aussie locker in the FF axle. Go with a selectable locker, either an e-locker or an ARB.
AC comes first, I agree :D
 
Don't do the aussie locker in the FF axle. Go with a selectable locker, either an e-locker or an ARB.

Arrggh!!!!

Really? Why is that? Tons of the 80s guys are running them with plenty of love to give. I'm not up to spending $$$ on an ARB. I've already spent $17k in two months between the three LCs :bang:
 
my ears are on FIRE! :D


why the FF rear?! if you really thing you need one, i have a housing and hubs. personally, i think it's a silly idea for 99.99% or the cruisers out there. prove me wrong.


i do have a good 4.10 third out of the front of a 62 in the stash for you Joey. :cool:


georg


ps: i would'nt run a lunchbox locker on the street either. selectable or nothing.
 
I don't really "need" one since I don't do super hard core rock crawling. That said I will have the truck loaded to the gills. I like the idea of getting rid of the C-clip and especially like the ability to still being able to roll even if on that of chance that I break the axle shaft I can still roll out without having the axle start taking the wheel down the road without the truck. I've never experienced it but I have read about it.

I can be easily swayed either way because I am a zero expert when it comes to suspension and axles. I'm an engine dude.
 
here goes.....


if you did any rock crawling, then i would'nt install a FF rear if you paid me to.

yes, the weight carrying capability is better when it comes to a FF rear. however, how much weight are you going to pile in your 60? if a sf rear in a similar seized rig ( with a 450hp supercharged vortec ) can hold up just fine, then why would you want to change it?

when's the last time somebody on here broke a sf rear? i bet it's well below 1%. well below.

now ask the guys that run ff rears. i bet more than 50% of them have broken shafts. even the "better" poly shafts. most people with FFs carry spare shafts. guys with SFs don't.

silly. just plain silly. i would'nt run one in my rig.

if none of that convinces you, then how about this: how many miles are on your 60? 260 plus thousand. right? when's the last time it had a rear axle issue? ......... yup. i'll stop now. :flipoff2:

georg
 
here goes.....


if you did any rock crawling, then i would'nt install a FF rear if you paid me to.

yes, the weight carrying capability is better when it comes to a FF rear. however, how much weight are you going to pile in your 60? if a sf rear in a similar seized rig ( with a 450hp supercharged vortec ) can hold up just fine, then why would you want to change it?

when's the last time somebody on here broke a sf rear? i bet it's well below 1%. well below.

now ask the guys that run ff rears. i bet more than 50% of them have broken shafts. even the "better" poly shafts. most people with FFs carry spare shafts. guys with SFs don't.

silly. just plain silly. i would'nt run one in my rig.

if none of that convinces you, then how about this: how many miles are on your 60? 260 plus thousand. right? when's the last time it had a rear axle issue? ......... yup. i'll stop now. :flipoff2:

georg

I have seen a couple of guys break SF shafts with stock 60 axles. One or two of them weren't even wheeling that hard. I think it happens more frequently than 1%. In addition, when you break a SF axle shaft out somewhere, if you don't carry a spare, you have nothing holding your wheel in, so its difficult, and extremely unsafe, to move a truck when this happens.

I am one of the guys that have broken a FF shaft, but it was because the shaft was compromised due to a previous bearing failure. I have had 0 issues since replacing my shafts with poly units.

If you have the money, then I think it is prudent to upgrade to a FF not only for the weight carrying capacity, but also for the added safety in event of a breakage.

If you wouldn't run one in your rig, then would you take out a FZJ80 rear axle and replace it, right off the bat, with a FJ80 rear axle to go back to a SF design?

Not trying to be a dick, just picking your brain:D
 
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I was seriously considering rhino-lining the entire floor black but after talking to Dynosoar I'm kinda rethinking it and may go with cruisercrap butyl then padding and then upgraded carpeting.

Were you talked out of it based on noise level? I'm curious because I've considered the liner route for my own much uglier 60.

Good to hear it's serving you well now!
Butt
 
Georg is right about the FF. Had I been more informed about it before I spent almost $800 to buy and rebuild mine, I would have stayed with the SF for exactly the reasons Georg mentions.

But, you know, if there is a way to break a SF axle, your wife will find. It...:D

Come get the AC compressor.:
 
I'm in the "1%" that G mentions, but I still agree with him. When mine broke, I was locked and bound up under a ledge on the Rubicon. PIA to fix on the trail and many swear words were said.

If you want a FF because you fear breakage, spend the cash on a really strong axle like a 14 bolt, a Dana 70, or a built Dana 60. A 14 bolt in particular will save you large amounts of $$ vs a Cruiser full float and will be essentially unbreakable. They can even be had with 4.56 gears and Detroit lockers from the factory. Usually available on Craig's list for $150 or less, and an easy disc break conversion is as close as the local parts store.
 
i just read the story, and i understand im off topic right now, but dang.
i bought my 60 on the spot and its a monster as it is. im crazy lucky i guess.
but trust me, i get so much more into my rig day by day
good luck on all your mods and such
its money well spent in my opinion
 
Were you talked out of it based on noise level? I'm curious because I've considered the liner route for my own much uglier 60.

Well I am still going to go black rhino liner on the lower exterior rockers. I wanted the rhino inside because I really loved having it inside my FJ40 but I think I liked it for a different reason. Easy to clean the mud out. Just hose it out :D

For the 60, well I'm not as into mud and water crossings and such as I was as a kid. Maybe something quieter is what I need. Its really loud right now.
 
I'm in the "1%" that G mentions, but I still agree with him. When mine broke, I was locked and bound up under a ledge on the Rubicon. PIA to fix on the trail and many swear words were said.

If you want a FF because you fear breakage, spend the cash on a really strong axle like a 14 bolt, a Dana 70, or a built Dana 60. A 14 bolt in particular will save you large amounts of $$ vs a Cruiser full float and will be essentially unbreakable. They can even be had with 4.56 gears and Detroit lockers from the factory. Usually available on Craig's list for $150 or less, and an easy disc break conversion is as close as the local parts store.

Dont really want a non-Toyota solution on the axles. I am definitely leaning on the SF side now. Isn't it possible to replace the C-clip with a bearing tho?
 
Georg is right about the FF. Had I been more informed about it before I spent almost $800 to buy and rebuild mine, I would have stayed with the SF for exactly the reasons Georg mentions.

But, you know, if there is a way to break a SF axle, your wife will find. It...:D

Come get the AC compressor.:

Yes true, my wife will break it somehow. :rolleyes:

AC compressor yes. This weekend? Maybe even tomorrow if your work schedule hasn't changed?
 
Took the day off from work today. Used it to tear apart the entire front grill area. Stripped it all down, painted everything black and then reassembled. Doesn't look like much changed but if you saw it in person you could definitely notice. This is also the beginning of stripping out the engine bay, painting it black, and playing everything to look like new.
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If you wouldn't run one in your rig, then would you take out a FZJ80 rear axle and replace it, right off the bat, with a FJ80 rear axle to go back to a SF design?

Not trying to be a dick, just picking your brain:D

I DD an 80. It's got 224k miles on it. Vortec for the last 110k miles or so. On 35s. Doesn't get wheeled much but I have FUN with it at pismo mostly in 2wd. It's a 91.......with the original untouched SF rear. :grinpimp:

But I do agree, if it had a FF rear I wouldn't change it.

Georg
 
I went to FF when after 285k the SF in my 60 had it's rear wheel bearing eat the axle shaft. I don't know how much the PO's "wheeled" it, but it has obviously seen a lot of Sacto. Delta area dirt roads. By going FF $$ out of pocket I was ahead of fixing what was there.

SF axles are a stress nightmare in the flange to shaft transition area. That they work and live at all is a minor miracle. Even if it had cost me more I'd have still gone FF. The only FF failures that I've seen thus far have been related to the drive studs.
Since I'll eventually be hacking up axle housings to center the rear diff perhaps I ought to be using D60 rear stubs to do it? In any case I'll likely end up with double splined axle shafts and drive flanges since the lengths will be custom. That should remove any bending stresses from the shafts.
 
I went to FF when after 285k the SF in my 60 had it's rear wheel bearing eat the axle shaft. I don't know how much the PO's "wheeled" it, but it has obviously seen a lot of Sacto. Delta area dirt roads. By going FF $$ out of pocket I was ahead of fixing what was there.


I find that very hard to believe. A good used SF shaft should cost you no more than $75 tops. Throw in a new bearing, axle seal and gear oil and you're still well below $150 total. You can pick up a complete good used rear axle for $200-300 all day long.
The cheapest complete FF rear 60 series axle you're gonna find will cost you at least $500-600 if you're lucky.
That's comparing apples to apples. Used parts to used parts.

Georg
 
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