New Thule Trailer

Discussion in 'Trailer Tech' started by VA Runner, Apr 29, 2007.

  1. Quinton

    Quinton

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    Perkj,i think i want to copy your design,any updated parts list or pointers to keep it easy and keep cost down,thanks for all the effort in showing what you guys have done so far.
    It should be here tomarrow.
    Thanks
     
  2. perkj

    perkj

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    @Quinton Here are the list of items for the rack specifically. For items like the t-nuts and cap screws you may want to order a few more to have extras. What I have listed are exact quantities.

    You will also want to add the brackets to tie all the frame corners together and I will post those items separately in another post when I get some time to look those parts up. I will also post up links to the lift struts you'll need as you will want lift strut that will lift the lid with the added weight of the rack plus any weight you put on the rack.



    Items from tnutz.com:

    EX-1515 - 1.5" x 1.5" Smooth Heavy T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion × 2
    ▪ Length: 72"
    ▪ Machining services ($1.00): 5/16-18 TAP AT BOTH ENDS.

    (DB-015) Drop-In T-Nut w/spring-ball - STAINLESS - M8 x 1.25 x 10

    (JP-015-J) 15 Series 5 Hole TEE Joining Plate × 4

    (CB-015-B) 15 Series 2 Hole Inside Corner Bracket × 16

    EX-1515L - 1.5" x 1.5" Smooth Lite T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion × 4
    ▪ Length: 18"
    ▪ Machining services ($1.00): 5/16-18 TAP AT BOTH ENDS.

    15 SERIES - BLACK PLASTIC END CAP W/PUSH-IN(S) – BLANK × 4
    ▪ Size: 1.5'' X 1.5''

    (ET-015-SS) Stainless Steel 5/16-18 Economy T-Nut × 44

    (STAINLESS) Button Head Socket Cap Screw × 48
    ▪ Thread Size:5/16-18
    ▪ Length: 5/8''

    EX-1030 - 1" x 3" Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion × 2 (these are the cross bars)
    ▪ Length: 60"
    ▪ Machining services: 1/4-20 TAP AT BOTH ENDS for all end holes

    10 SERIES - BLACK PLASTIC END CAP W/PUSH-IN(S) – BLANK × 4
    ▪ Size: 1'' X 3''

    (STAINLESS) Button Head Socket Cap Screw × 20
    ▪ Thread Size: ¼-20
    ▪ Length: 1/2’’

    (DB-010) Drop-In T-Nut w/spring-ball - STAINLESS - ¼-20 x 8



    Items from McMaster.com

    Super-Corrosion-Resistant Bumax 88 Hex Head Screw M8 x 1.25 mm Thread, 20 mm Long 93810A467 Qty 2 Packs of 5. (These are to connect the long track excursion to the lid. Please note these are Grade 5 strength SS bolts…yes they are expensive, but I wouldn’t trust normal grade 2 level SS bolts for this application) You will need to drill out the 3 existing M5 holes to M8. I also add two additional M8 holes about 1 inch in from both ends of the track)

    Bumax 109 Stainless Steel Flat Washer
    M8 Screw Size, 8.4mm ID
    94316A320

    Qty 1 Pack of 10
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2018
  3. joeaverage

    joeaverage

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    Just wanted to pile in here and say thanks for everyone's notes, pictures and such. I haven't checked this thread in ages (I was way back on page 4 or 5).
     
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  4. perkj

    perkj

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    welcome back to the party! :)
     
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  5. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

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    Hopefully there's still some cold beer in the cooler!
     
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  6. perkj

    perkj

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    @Quinton Did the trailer arrive? Pictures?
     
  7. Quinton

    Quinton

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    What do you think about replacing the 1x3x60 with something smaller to resimble thule load bars,that way all the thule attachments for square bars should work?
     
  8. perkj

    perkj

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    Thats possible. They make a 1'x1", however that said both Thule and Yakima make t-bolt assessors for their newer style aero bars. Heck you can even utilized the Aero bars as I had initially planned to do:

    [​IMG]
    View attachment 1630568
     
  9. Quinton

    Quinton

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    That might be a better option,my buddy might have a set of aero blades,did you use same hardware to mount those as well.What length did you use 53 inch?
    Thanks
    Ill try to get some pics this weekend
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2018
  10. perkj

    perkj

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    @Quinton you will need the 60" aeroblades, the 53" will not be long enough. Yes the corner brackets needed to attached the crossbars will work for the Thule bars as well. You will also need a set of these: Replacement Anchor Plate "A" for Yakima LandingPad 1 (QTY 8) Yakima Accessories and Parts. Those plates will allow you to attach the Aerobars to those corner brackets....they will slide into the channel on the bottom side of the AeroBlade bars to give you a "nut" to screw the bolt into. you will use all 8, i.e. two per corner.
    E9FEC79A-C19B-499F-82CC-F1464672818F.jpeg
     
  11. perkj

    perkj

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    @Quinton got any pictures of the new trailer to share?
     
  12. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

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    I finally attached the new fenders, looks good and no more tire rub! I also had the rim mounted at Discount and then installed the spare carrier. Next up is to find the proper stake type axle nuts and install them properly (need to borrow an air hammer or some such). Man I hate not having a garage and a tool bench with a vise and such, I had to saw the U-bolts for the carrier down by hand and use some ghetto method involving 2bys to hold them steady- What a PITA!
     
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  13. perkj

    perkj

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    @Sir Velo can you send a picture of the tire carrier and where/how you have it mounted? Also, where did you get the tire mount?
     
  14. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

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  15. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

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    perkj likes this.
  16. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

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    So I haven't even prepped for this year's trip and already I'm contemplating next year's trip! My plan is an American adventure, 4 weeks and heading out to DC with stops along the way and back. I want my boys to see some of the sights I experienced as a youngster.

    So for this trek I'm considering an RTT for the Thule, as an RV or some other camping trailer is cost prohibitive at this point. I'll need to change out the struts and maybe put some heavier duty crossbars in place of the current ones. I may consider your design @perkj for the side rails, but I'll see how things progress with the current build.

    Any how, I wonder how things are going with you @Quinton ?
     
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  17. perkj

    perkj

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    @SirVelo your plans for next year's trip sounds exciting and 4 weeks will make for a great adventure!. I do think for a RTT you will need more stout cross bars and I'd see no issue with the 10-Series 1x3 I used fitting the bill. My biggest concern however would be how much weight could be put on the lid frame. A 3 person RTT typically run about 130 lbs. add to that the weight of 3 people can bring the total weight to 400-500 lbs or more. I suppose in theory with the lid closed the lid frame would displace most of the weight on the trailer body. My recommendation would be to test fit a RTT first before purchasing or purchase from some place like REI that has a guaranteed return policy should things not work out. You'll need some heavy weight lift struts as well and likely a prop rod or two to keep the lid open with a RTT on. Keep us posted on the progress if you head down the RTT path!
     
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