New Thule Trailer

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@Sir Velo yeah I was surprised at how easy the 150s are to close. Without question they support the weight of the lid with the rack much better.

I did get that rod from etrailer as I was ordering some other items as well that got me free shipping.
 
Well Knott has my CC and hopefully I'll have a spare before too long as well as some new fenders. I went with the larger ones similar to yours @perkj now for a tire to go along with that and a bracket to mount it all up!
 
Took about 2 weeks to get my shipment from Knott. Sat in customs for a while. Be aware that you’ll need to track the DHL tracking number thru the dhl German site. It will eventually get updated with the USPS tracking number once it’s handed off to USPS in the States.
 
perkj said:
Took about 2 weeks to get my shipment from Knott. Sat in customs for a while. Be aware that you’ll need to track the DHL tracking number thru the dhl German site. It will eventually get updated with the USPS tracking number once it’s handed off to USPS in the States.
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They sent it to me on Tuesday the 6th and it arrived this past Monday!
 
Just got one of these to pull behind my 2000 4runner.What do you guys think about making the rack extend up from the back like in a hitch carrier and a upright off the front tongue area instead of on the lid,it might limit the lifting height of the lid but should be easily removed,plus maybe mount some awnings?
 
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Maybe something similer to this?wont be as factory looking as these posted but should look good if i take my time.

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Quinton said:
Just got one of these to pull behind my 2000 4runner.What do you guys think about making the rack extend up from the back like in a hitch carrier and a upright off the front tongue area instead of on the lid,it might limit the lifting height of the lid but should be easily removed,plus maybe mount some awnings?
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@Quinton congrats on the new trailer! While what you describe above is possible, what you will find is that the spread between the two bars will be over 7 feet. With a spread between the bars that long, its unclear what you'd be able to utilized the rack for. For example there aren't bike trays long enough to fit a spread that large.
 
@Quinton Congrats on the acquisition!

In addition to what @perkj has mentioned, I'm wondering if the front rack part will raise up high enough above the lid line. Also, if it's what I'm thinking what you're wanting to carry, I'd think that the lid will be able to handle 2 kayaks with relative ease and you could construct a rack similar to those seen here.
 
Awsome guys,i love these trailers,its not here yet,im having ashipping company pick up,even with shipping im still under 1350.00.
Its never been off road,org owner,keys,title,papers and garaged.I feel good about it,its 2018,what kind of trailer can you get for that,not much in Oklahoma,ill post some pics when it gets here.
Yes my main concern is kayaks,2 most times but maybe 3 if needed.Iwant to keep the price down but also want everything to look clean and factory.
 
@Quinton did you by chance buy the one that was recently up on eBay (Thule Trailer | eBay ) ? If so that looks like a nice one and practically in new condition. Let me know if you need any help finding spare parts, etc....as you'll see in previous posts in this thread a few of us have been able to track down quite a bit. Be aware that these trailers, depending on the year, will have one of two axles made either by Knott or AL-KO. The reason I point this out is that the hub bearings are completely different and you'll want to ensure you get the right ones. My trailer has the Knott axle and @Sir Velo has the AL-KO.

In regards to the rack, take a look at the previous posts in this thread by @Sir Velo and myself. We took two different approaches to rack utilizing the same material. Both are very stout rack approaches. As you'll see the approach I took as to not have to drill additional holes into the lid for the rack and I wanted the cross bars to be adjustable along the length of the rack. The down side to my design is that it cost more. As a part of building the rack you will want to add some corner brackets to the frame to tied the frame together to help strengthen. Again, look back at the previous posts in this thread for details.
 
Yes that was the one,its a 2008 model.It should be delivered next week.I definitely want some spare parts along with wheel.I like both roof racks you mentioned,i am going to reread all the post this next week,my biggest concern is a good solid kayak carrier and having a awning setup would be great,as well as the jacks.Being able to unhook from it and leave at camp would be a big plus.I can always carry stuff on top of 4runner as well.
 
Perkj i like the design you used for the adjustment aspect,especially for longer kayaks.
Have you guys ever checked into the wheel adaptor oz used?
 
@Quinton Oz didn’t use wheel adapter, he was running the stock 4x13” rims. I’ve looked into wheel adaptors pretty extensively and there are plenty of 4x100 to 5x4.5” adapters out there that will allow you to go to a larger rim however finding a rim with the right offset to account for a wider rim & tire and the width of the adapter becomes tricky. BMW makes a steel 4.5x14” rim at 4x100 with a 35 ET off set and 57.1 center hole that would be a nice fit for these trailers without the need for an adapter

But before getting to far into wheel adapters and larger rims/tires the first the first question is why are you interested in moving to larger tires?
 
Not really wanting bigger,was just wandering if using adapotors and modern USA made trailer wheels would be better in the long run
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Im just going over simple things that i would want without getting crazy.I also think a rear receiver would be nice.
 
Quinton said:
Not really wanting bigger,was just wandering if using adapotors and modern USA made trailer wheels would be better in the long run
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Im just going over simple things that i would want without getting crazy.I also think a rear receiver would be nice.
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@Quinton the issue with common US trailer rims is that they have a zero offset. The issue with the adaptors are that they are 1-1.25" thick and thus push the rim outward. Compound that with a US trailer rim with zero offset pushes the rim out even further. The end result is that your rim/tire would be pushed out way to far from the trailer frame. That said you could find a non-trailer rim that would have the appropriate offset to account for rim size, adapter and tire size. This would take some precise measuring and offset math.

For the time being I stuck with stock 13" rims. I upgrade the tire size from 145/75-13 to 175/75-13 and the reason being is that 145/74-13 is a size no longer offered in the US. The 175/75s fit no problem and the only thing to consider is larger fenders to fir the tire better....information on the fender are in some of my previous posts and they are ~$50 shipped. If you're looking for a spare rim, it can be purchased from Knott in Germany and expect to pay about $80 for the rim (this includes shipping to the US).
 
Here you go: Steel rims 13" high quality trailer rims - Knott GmbH

The first rim in the list (i.e. 4.00x13, 100x4, 57mm bore, ET 30) is the one you want as its an exact match to the two other you have.

If you also have a Knott axle (as opposed to the AL-KO) then it would be a good idea to also order up some hub bearings and seals at the same time to take advantage of the shipping. you can get the bearings in the US as well, however I found the Knott pricing to be cheapest when shipping along with the rims.
 
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