new third upper brake light, would you add a strip of silicone?

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Tail lights have the exact same bad foam. Water in there messing with a dual filament bulb really mucks up your day as far as that circuit goes.
 
I found some 3/8" x 15' 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer at Advance Auto. It sure looks and feels like butyl and in "directions for use" they call it butyl. I also see they recommend 3M Windo-Weld Primer PN 08643. This must be and adhesion promoter.
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The 3/8" butyl was way to thick, so I ended up cutting down. A 3/16" thickness would have saved time.

I used a household roofing sealant 2300 along seam of lense to lense housing. I don't know if leak was at this point, but did sealed it anyway along top and sides.
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I then added the 3/8" butyl rope to back side of third brake light. Did a test fit and quickly realized it was to thick and working/pressing in would take a long time. So I took a razor and cut it down to about 3/16". Then still spent a good deal of time pressing it in flush.
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Cleaned with 3m Adhesive remover, trying to get butyl to come up to edges then ressessing back in so not create pockets to trap dirt or so high my cleaning & drying microfiber would touch during washings.
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I notice this one spot that may have been (not re-tested yet) my leak. It's where lense bonds to lense housing. As I pressed lense onto hatch to work in butyl, that spot emerged.
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Once I had light seated and sured the two nut and attached the wire. I then when back and put pressure on lense again to settle butyl as much as possible. Seem slow (over time) steady pressure works best.

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I pulled my whale tail a while back and just left the 3rd light blank in place. I put gorilla tape over the holes. I should probably get the replacement light and figure out a better solution than the tape.
 
Despite my doubts it actually has!

My factory light assembly is quite warped too, after looking closer at the design any water that leaks in through the lens and/or surrounding area should “technically” be inside the upper hatch and as it increased move to the left or right and stay within the hatch itself. Eventually draining out the weep holes on the lower outer corners.

Take a close look at the design is what I had to do.

Any water that you can confirm dripping in from above the rear window is going to be from the perimeter hatch seal back there, might just be dirty and not faulty.

@Greenbean I'm tracking down my third brake light leak and did an experiment to test your theory:

- Before removing the brakelight I confirmed the leak by removing the inside trim and hosing down the upper roof/hatch area. Lots of water dripping straight down onto my cargo carpet.

- I then removed the brakelight assembly, cleaned off the old foam gasket, covered the holes in the hatch with tape and re-soaked with the hose. No water dripping at all.

The width of the factory seal along the top edge of the light is waaaay too thin. There's only a few millimeters of overlap with the hatch metal, no wonder that it fails with age from heat cycling, etc. I'm going the butyl tape route shortly.

- Jim
 
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Butyl rope applied, brakelight reinstalled and everythings waterproof according to the hose test!

I applied the thick rope to the body so I could roll it thinner by laying wax paper over it and rolling it smooth. This is before rolling:

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I have wanted to try butyl tape before,

Mine isn’t leaking and we drove through a great rain storm today.

Can you share what brand butyl tape your using there?

Glad you got it solved, I absolutely HATE HATE HATE water leaks!
 
I found my first set of drips down the center of the rear window the other day. Looks like the next step is the hose test once its not so cold out. I'm glad y'all have been able to solve this issue.
 
I have wanted to try butyl tape before,

Mine isn’t leaking and we drove through a great rain storm today.

Can you share what brand butyl tape your using there?

Glad you got it solved, I absolutely HATE HATE HATE water leaks!
I’m not sure of the brand I bought, but it’s all pretty much the same, chemically. ~$15 gets you as much as you’ll likely ever need from Amazon, just choose the size you want. I think 1/4” would be appropriate for the brake light seal area. Amazon.com: butyl rope

Y’know, if I had to do it again I’d apply the rope to the roof like in my above pic, then heat it up with a heat gun before pressing on the brake light and tightening the nuts. The cold butyl is pretty solid and if you’re too forceful you could crack the light while seating it and tightening the nuts. Perhaps heated butyl would deform easier with less risk of cracking the light. Just a thought.
 
My light is now cracked and broken. Has anyone had luck with the Chinese aftermarket ones on ebay? How do they compare with genuine?
 
My light is now cracked and broken. Has anyone had luck with the Chinese aftermarket ones on ebay? How do they compare with genuine?
Mine didn't fit well with large gaps all around and the light didn't work. Other than that it's a great deal... OEM
 
@Dockofthebay THANKS, that's what I was afraid of. I ordered a genuine one from PartsSouq UAE, $150 including shipping ($50 cheaper than I could find it anywhere else...)

I think I'll try the butyle tape, even with the new genuine double stick foam gasket...
 
Just ordered a new light that came in today. It has the factory foam seal that I'm considering augmenting with a silicone rtv gasket on the body side. I don't want there to be any unintended consequences by using the two materials together. Does anyone see an issue with this?
 
Just ordered a new light that came in today. It has the factory foam seal that I'm considering augmenting with a silicone rtv gasket on the body side. I don't want there to be any unintended consequences by using the two materials together. Does anyone see an issue with this?
 
I'm bringing this thread back with a slightly different but certainly related issue. No problem removing the 3rd brake lens assembly; where exactly do I find the electrical connection /plug? Seems so far that yanking out the rubber-gasketed-plug into the window frame is not helpful.
 
you have to remove the trim from the upper part of the inside of the hatch. the plug is under there
 
you have to remove the trim from the upper part of the inside of the hatch. the plug is under there
Thanks! I finally did get the nerve to snap that trim piece loose. Found out that OEM vs. Chinese knockoff would have been the better choice (mounting studs a tad off, wiring plug...well...gonna be hard-wiring that). Live and learn...
 
Just wondering if I should add a dab of silicone or rtv to a new third upper brake light. I see having this truck long term.
I used rtv and silicone to fix last year when I should have just got a new light for 145 dollars in the first place. I takes hours to remove smoothed silicone off paint. RTV removal is fast with a wheel.
Shoulda woulda.
anyway--- add silicone in addition to new foam and light or not? 81570-60061 W/O spoiler.

Where did you find this for $145? I can't find it cheaper than $200+.
 

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