New Garage / Shop

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weejub

weejub

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Threads
91
Messages
6,406
Location
Pittsboro, NC
Hey all - we are close to moving out south a bit (under contract) and will have room to build a garage. We are trading out life in the suburbs for life on a 2.5 acre old farm house for about the same price. The place is near 167th and Metcalf.

Wanted to pick your collective brains. If you guys know half as much about where/how to park and work on the truck as how to drive and fix it, I figure this is the best resource in the world! (also who knew TAC also had a huge knowledge base about 22LR and beer crafting? amazing).

So the first step is to understand HOW BIG I can really go. This land is zoned District A Agricultural (technically "Rural District" when annex'd, but considered Ag). It is still in OP, though. I have read through OPs zoning guidelines and it appears to me that even Ag land still has to comply with the rules on size and height and for 2-3 acres that would be a max size of 1200 SQFT and 20 feet height. Frankly, I can't afford bigger and don't think I need bigger. That isn't a lot smaller than the house itself LOL.

Looking for your thoughts on size first. Was thinking 34Wx35L with a three car entry on front and 2-car door pull through on back. 34W would leave room for 2-3 foot shelving on the sides. It would be like a mullet - - business in front (like a regular garage) and a party in the back (like a shop)! Part of this garage would be expensed as part of my wife's cleaning business, and she will need lots of storage for that.

Trying to "standardize" as much as possible to keep costs down, etc. Open to 2x6" walls with wood construction or even a Morton-building - - just starting to research, so no idea on cost differences, etc. OP wants you to make the garage look like the house, but come-on-man - - can go same color, etc and be OK, I am sure.

I'll post up a pick of the lot next. Thanks!
 
bigger is always better. lift on one side? sounds like a lot of doors. what does the house have to start 2-3 car? i wouldn't put three doors unless you plan on using it like a three car garage. I have seen two more centered wide with room around it and 2.5 deep which makes it nice. also depends on the layout of the property a lot. 20' tall you could have storage above.

my buddy just put in a 80 x 30 i think it could be deeper so 35- 40 deep might be fine but my truck is 23' long in want room for a work bench and engine hoist in front of the vehicle.. drive through large doors on the end a smaller but still big door about centered.

I think having a larger square of space for "work shop" type area is more important than a bunch of work bench and shelving. but you have purpose for needed shelving with the business. every shop is personal.
 
I have way too many thoughts..... so I will make my two lists "if I could do it again" and things I did right. If you can do a Morton, dollar for dollar you will be ahead.


In concrete floor water based heating. Pex pipe is cheap. Insulation under slab to increase efficiency.

16' ceilings to allow for lift.

cable/ internet run behind walls in multiple locations


Things I like...

put air lines in walls around garage, and in ceiling for coil.

Power 220 to every wall, just not hooked up in box unless needed.

2x6 walls for insulation. Place is tight!

natural gas furnace for quick heat. (nice if you are not out there much)

8' tall doors, at least 9 wide.
 
I built mine 15 feet away from the big trees that I wanted to keep on both sides of the garage. Back is 5' from property line. That is how I determined the size.

Wish I cut them down now.
 
Wow - thanks for all the great info!! The current house has only one short garage in the basement of the home. It is a large garage, but its like a 6'3' garage height. My wife's GX only clears if you put the rear airbags on Lo setting. Someday it will be a brewery vs a garage :)

Love the info on what to put into the garage, Kelly - as I was thinking too small, I think.

I am open to any suggestions on type of material, etc. I love how the steel buildings have open over-head's vs wood trusses. I am even considering trying to build it myself if I have someone poor the foundation. I may have to have a roofer do the roof.

Home is on Old US69 now Metcalf Place. Neighbor says we will own the house on "deadman's corner" *gulp* were the kids would drive too fast and wreck :)
 
Hi, Go pre eng. metal all the way. Brick the front facade if you want it to look more house like. Cheaper on insurance. Id go 6-8 slab with reinforced beams underneath. Would be good to consider solar on the roof. Remember the fancier it looks the county will appraise it that way. Mike
 
Coming from an insulation contractor, I prefer all wood buildings. Steel scissor truss buildings are difficult and expensive to insulate properly. Do a 2x6 wall with 16" stud spacing and spray applied cellulose insulation at R21. Wood trusses with a white metal ceiling and R38 blown cellulose insulation would be a great combo. The shop would be extremely comfortable and cost very little to heat and cool.
 
Thanks guys!

Eric - Given what you do . . .:) . . . . . .would you recommend going with the hard board insulation on the outside, too?
 
If you use quality wall cavity insulation, you probably don't need the foam board. If you use the nasty itchy pink stuff, then you definitely need the xtra protection of the foam board.
 
Check out Nucor's panelized metal buildings. Not sure if they do the height you want, but very affordable. You could easily erect it yourself. And walls are ready for wiring and insulation.
 
Thanks Eric and Buckjoey.

As an update, I had to submit my plans on where to build to Overland Park today. Because my property is split between 2, 1-acre lots and a .25 lot, I will have to get an exception to the normal rules to go over 900 sq ft.

I am hoping to do this without having to go to the appeals process.

I drew up a picture of the place. I also used JoCo's AIMs map, printed out in color, and put a box where I want it to go. I also made a design in Excel and sent it all over to the nice lady who will help me get 1200 SqFt vs 900 SqFt. :)
 

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Just a thought but if you put in a door opposite another door on one end , if you trailer, you can pull straight in with your trailer unload it and pull straight out with no backing up. This also allows for flow through ventilation in summer. Mike
 
Michael Hanson said:
Just a thought but if you put in a door opposite another door on one end , if you trailer, you can pull straight in with your trailer unload it and pull straight out with no backing up. This also allows for flow through ventilation in summer. Mike
Click to expand...

Yes - The Excel-picture isn't the best, but I am hoping to do a 16' double door and a 9' wide single door on the front and a 14' or 16' double door on the back.

The lot west of the house lot used to have a house on it and there is the start of the old driveway there, so we will just extended that to the back door (west door) of the shop.
 
Michael Hanson said:
Just a thought but if you put in a door opposite another door on one end ...... This also allows for flow through ventilation in summer. Mike
Click to expand...

summer ventilation with through doors would great.
 
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