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OP Planning wants me to go to JoCo and combine my two, 1-acre lots to do 1200 sqft :( I guess I will deal with this later - - either that or go with a 32x28 :(
 
Due to a couple factors, we will have to stick with 900 sq ft.

First bid for 3' min depth footers with 4" 4000 psi floor was close to $19K!!

We have about 4' of rise on the 32' run of the floor that will have to be a wall around the footers.

I would think you would want at least 6" of floor for a lift??
 
Wow that is a high bid. I dug my footings, formed up and placed rebar and poured them myself. A few hundred dollars rental on a mini excavator makes quick work of that. But I like that stuff.

I assume you mean a 4" rise.

On the lift, as long as you have good compacted base, and rebar in the floor, I don't know if it matters. I am king of overkill and don't think I would mess with 6".
 
Johnson County is listed with a varying bedrock depth of 10-20". That's a component of a larger survey, but that may be one to factor in on foundation costs. Hard to say, but if rock is involved and a known obstacle, it can add a tremendous amount to a bid.

If the footing excavation includes rock clause verbiage, I'd suggest finding a contractor whose known to work in that specific area.

Lifts or any point loads are typically anchored to a spread footing or pier. The entire floor doesn't need to be capable of supporting point loads, only the attachment points.

On cost, without one manual shovels worth of excavation, the floor, locally, would breakdown to around:

$7.16 PSF with #4 2' OCEW, 4000 psi, visqueen, formed and finished.

$36 PLF for 12"x36" footing with (12) #5s, corner bars, hairpins (as required)

Again, no excavation is included in these figures and based on a local cost of $93 per yard (delivered with tax).

Betting the site work is a huge component of the estimate, which can be expensive, especially if adjoining residential properties, based on the grade you described.

That said, the total expense is ~$21 PSF and that's almost 1/5th the national average of finished new home construction.
 
Wow that is a high bid. I dug my footings, formed up and placed rebar and poured them myself. A few hundred dollars rental on a mini excavator makes quick work of that. But I like that stuff.

I assume you mean a 4" rise.

On the lift, as long as you have good compacted base, and rebar in the floor, I don't know if it matters. I am king of overkill and don't think I would mess with 6".


Thanks Kelly - unfortunately it is a side hill that goes up about 4 feet.



EDIT - BTW your awesome to do all that work!
 
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Johnson County is listed with a varying bedrock depth of 10-20". That's a component of a larger survey, but that may be one to factor in on foundation costs. Hard to say, but if rock is involved and a known obstacle, it can add a tremendous amount to a bid.

If the footing excavation includes rock clause verbiage, I'd suggest finding a contractor whose known to work in that specific area.

Lifts or any point loads are typically anchored to a spread footing or pier. The entire floor doesn't need to be capable of supporting point loads, only the attachment points.

On cost, without one manual shovels worth of excavation, the floor, locally, would breakdown to around:

$7.16 PSF with #4 2' OCEW, 4000 psi, visqueen, formed and finished.

$36 PLF for 12"x36" footing with (12) #5s, corner bars, hairpins (as required)

Again, no excavation is included in these figures and based on a local cost of $93 per yard (delivered with tax).

Betting the site work is a huge component of the estimate, which can be expensive, especially if adjoining residential properties, based on the grade you described.

That said, the total expense is ~$21 PSF and that's almost 1/5th the national average of finished new home construction.




Delancy - Thanks for all the info. I will try to adjust the math, but it sounds like you are saying that I am not as far off as you would see typically.

I owe you, the contractor who bid, and all a few notes here - - my bad for not explaining more:

The bid includes both the 900 SF garage space (32x28) AND a 640 SF drive-up pad in front (20x32).

My ground is on a VERY rocky area - - I have been told that builders wouldn't dig a walk-out basement home on our site today it is so bad - home was built in 1965.



Here are the specs:

Install 120' LF of 8" x 16" spread footing (3' depth min) with 8" thick wall (height will vary)

Install 2 garage floor support piers ( I need 3, btw)

Install 900 SF Garage Slab: Concrete: 4" thick 4,000 psi; Reinforcing: 1/2" rebar @ 2' spacing e.w.; Base: Impact compacted sub-base with vibra-plated gravel base; Finish: Power towel; Joints: Saw cut every 10' e.w.; Sealer: 2 coats of acrylic cure and sealer

Install a 640 SF Driveway apron; Concrete: 4" thick 4,000 psi air entrained, Reinforcing: 1/2" rebar @ 2' spacing e.w., doweled into foundation, Base: Impact compacted sub-base with vibra-plated gravel base, Finish: Broom with finished edges, Joints: Tooled every 10' e.w., Sealer: 2 coats of acrylic cure and sealer, Edges will be back filled, Broom and clean job site
 
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