99% of the single PDF 96 FSM is fine. I have both 94 individual files FSM and the combined 96 (own a 94). I need something I search the 96 and verify in the 94. I really haven't found much difference although there are some.
Mystery No-Start Thread
- Thread starter brettwilm
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
No hazing just help. I prefer the thick ass hard cop because I can reference wiring diagrams and all possible related chapters from the comfort of my chair.
Here is a shot of my distributor rotor with engine at TDC when I was disassembling for my HG job last spring. Hope this helps.
Your distributor rotates at twice the speed as the crank, so you have 2 locations (180 degrees from one another) for tdc of the #1 cylinder...
My guess is that it's out 180 degrees
My guess is that it's out 180 degrees
- Thread starter
- #25
That is an excellent photo, thanks!
- Thread starter
- #26
OK. 1972FJ55 and I worked on this for a couple hours tonight (and he's done at least one head gasket, owned several cruisers, much more knowledgeable than I). We confirmed spark with #1 plug out grounded, and also in with timing light on the wires for #1 and also several of the others. We pulled the fuel return line (lower hose) off the fuel pressure regulator and cranked, and that hose spat gas like gangbusters so the injectors seem to be getting fuel. We put a compression gauge on #1 and got compression. We had the distributor open a number of times, confirming TDC on the crank pulley, rotor up, and the timing spot on. Lastly, we sprayed some starter fluid in the air intake hose, buttoned it up, and cranked. Same as always--cranks as long as we want, but won't start up. MUCHAS GRACIAS to Rex for lending a hand so much on this so-far futile exercise....
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2015
- Threads
- 36
- Messages
- 384
Check the crank position sensor. If its faulty the car wont start no matter what.
- Thread starter
- #28
madisonr34 I don't think the 94s have a crank position sensor. I've looked under the car, and there's a couple holes for it but not installed. Can anyone second that?https://forum.ih8mud.com/members/madisonr34.109008/
- Thread starter
- #29
From what I see, the distributor rotor rotates half as fast as the crank pulley.
I'm at work and don't have my FSM in front of me, but I'm pretty sure your engine (1FZ-FE) has a crankshaft position sensor on it. It tells the ECM how to time injector pulse and advance ignition advance. Off the internet: A crank sensor is an electronic device used in an internal combustion engine to monitor the position or rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is used by engine management systems to control ignition system timing and other engine parameters.
I re-read your procedure for setting up the crank and dizzy to TDC. When you set the crank at TDC the dizzy rotor should be pointed at the #1 post on the dizzy cap (not 5:30 or 12:00), it's more like 2:00 o'clock. Remember, the dizzy shaft has spiral cut teeth that cause the rotor to move when re-installing it back in the head. You have to compensate for that. The rotor will be pointing at the #1 post on the dizzy cap when done correctly.
I re-read your procedure for setting up the crank and dizzy to TDC. When you set the crank at TDC the dizzy rotor should be pointed at the #1 post on the dizzy cap (not 5:30 or 12:00), it's more like 2:00 o'clock. Remember, the dizzy shaft has spiral cut teeth that cause the rotor to move when re-installing it back in the head. You have to compensate for that. The rotor will be pointing at the #1 post on the dizzy cap when done correctly.
Last edited:
There is no crankshaft position sensor on the '93 and '94 model years. The OP states he has a '94 in the first post. I do agree that the dizzy should be pointing somewhere near 2:00 o'clock.
brettwilm,
I just read through you post about getting your 94' FJ80 started. Unfortunately it sounds very familiar to what I'm dealing with right now. I'll give you the full story, but primarily what I'm asking is if you think your spark plugs being flooded was the main issue? Could you see noticeably that they were wet?
I just completed a bunch of maintenance including the main crank seal, oil pump gasket, valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, PCV valve, PHH, oil change, transmission fluid change, throttle body cleaning, dizzy o-ring, ...
On the first try to start it up, it started right away. However, it ran quite rough and I shut it down after a minute or so. Unfortunately, I did not check the RPMs or rev the engine, but I'm quite sure the RPMs were low. I also know that the timing was off several degrees at that point and likely causing some of the rough idle.
Since then I only got it to start one other time and it lasted for about 3 seconds. The RPMs were very very low. Now it won't start at all.
I don't have a spark plug wrench at the moment, else I'd start pulling them.
Here's a video me trying to start it a few days ago...
Here's a video of tonight. The second attempt is with the accelerator floored which I hear can help start a flooded engine.
I notice that the second video sounds less-likely to start. I'm wondering if you noticed this trend as well as you continued to make attempts and probably flooded your spark plugs further.
I just read through you post about getting your 94' FJ80 started. Unfortunately it sounds very familiar to what I'm dealing with right now. I'll give you the full story, but primarily what I'm asking is if you think your spark plugs being flooded was the main issue? Could you see noticeably that they were wet?
I just completed a bunch of maintenance including the main crank seal, oil pump gasket, valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, PCV valve, PHH, oil change, transmission fluid change, throttle body cleaning, dizzy o-ring, ...
On the first try to start it up, it started right away. However, it ran quite rough and I shut it down after a minute or so. Unfortunately, I did not check the RPMs or rev the engine, but I'm quite sure the RPMs were low. I also know that the timing was off several degrees at that point and likely causing some of the rough idle.
Since then I only got it to start one other time and it lasted for about 3 seconds. The RPMs were very very low. Now it won't start at all.
I don't have a spark plug wrench at the moment, else I'd start pulling them.
Here's a video me trying to start it a few days ago...
Here's a video of tonight. The second attempt is with the accelerator floored which I hear can help start a flooded engine.
I notice that the second video sounds less-likely to start. I'm wondering if you noticed this trend as well as you continued to make attempts and probably flooded your spark plugs further.
Flooding a fuel injected engine isn't particularly easy. Holding the accelerator pedal down will allow more air to flow in without adding additional fuel. If you really want to try to clear it out, unplug the EFI fuse and crank at wide open throttle just to pump air through. That will help clear any potential flooding. I suspect your timing is quite a bit off and that is the real trouble here. You are probably one tooth off on the dizzy upon re-insertion. Follow the FSM procedure for re-alignment and try again.
From the FSM timing procedure, one tooth off on the dizzy is certainly possible. My thoughts were that the rotation range on the dizzy mount would be able to cover up that timing offset, so I tried rotating the dizzy as much each way as possible but neither helped. Maybe the rotation range on the mount isn't enough to cover a single tooth though. I'm also unclear whether 1 tooth off would make this big of a difference. If so, I guess I'll try moving a tooth each way and see what happens.
Swap it out anyway; it's 8 bucks. Worked for me.