mystery black box on firewall (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 24, 2017
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Location
Texas
Bought a nice rust free, 119k mile '95 FZJ80 a couple months ago that didn't come with the keyless entry fobs but oddly had zero key scratches around any of the door locks, making me think it had to have keyless entry at some point or owners with surgeon-like steadiness in their hands. Investigating further I noticed a small black box on the firewall (at the top corner on the driver's side - see photo). It has two bundled wires coming out - one bundle has two in it, each of which go to a connector going into the starter, the other wire bundle also has two wires, with one going to the negative ground on the battery and the other going to either the driver's side headlight or more likely the horn (too dark to trace the last couple of inches even with a flashlight).

I'm guessing this box has something to do with an alarm or remote start, but there is no RS3000, TVSS or any aftermarket alarm ECU to be found. I've looked all around driver's side footwell, under the front seats, in all directions behind the glovebox, etc, etc, etc. and am coming up empty. I've searched the interwebs exhaustively looking for a similar setup in a photo, searched the iH8Mud threads for an answer, and am still coming up empty.

Anyone else seen something like this? Any ideas what this is? The hopeful end game is to just be able to program an aftermarket or OEM remote for keyless entry rather than install a new keyless entry system.
2017-04-27 21.34.41.jpg
 
Bought a nice rust free, 119k mile '95 FZJ80 a couple months ago that didn't come with the keyless entry fobs but oddly had zero key scratches around any of the door locks, making me think it had to have keyless entry at some point or owners with surgeon-like steadiness in their hands. Investigating further I noticed a small black box on the firewall (at the top corner on the driver's side - see photo). It has two bundled wires coming out - one bundle has two in it, each of which go to a connector going into the starter, the other wire bundle also has two wires, with one going to the negative ground on the battery and the other going to either the driver's side headlight or more likely the horn (too dark to trace the last couple of inches even with a flashlight).

I'm guessing this box has something to do with an alarm or remote start, but there is no RS3000, TVSS or any aftermarket alarm ECU to be found. I've looked all around driver's side footwell, under the front seats, in all directions behind the glovebox, etc, etc, etc. and am coming up empty. I've searched the interwebs exhaustively looking for a similar setup in a photo, searched the iH8Mud threads for an answer, and am still coming up empty.

Anyone else seen something like this? Any ideas what this is? The hopeful end game is to just be able to program an aftermarket or OEM remote for keyless entry rather than install a new keyless entry system.
View attachment 1449577
Aliens put it there to track you.

Seriously, no idea. Disconnect the battery and try removing it or taking it apart ( without disconnecting it ) to find a makers name or model number, then Google it.
 
Probably a relic. I would try to get rid of it, nothing like mystery electronic devices to cause trouble down the road.
 
Whats that giant purple hose/wire going through the firewall grommet?

Also not OEM.
 
Seth_O - good eye ... that's the 4 gauge cable running to the distribution block for the two amps that I installed for the new stereo I put in (it's actually blue but definitely looks purple in the photo). Whenever I'm deviating anything from factory on a boat/car/motorcycle I try to pick a random color so that mechanics and any subsequent owners are quickly clued off that what they're looking at is not OEM.

Off topic, I now know to never underestimate how big a pain in the arse it is swap out the speakers in an 80 series. But going from 9 low wattage paper speakers to 23 speakers has made a huge difference. If only the Pioneer NEX headunit I put in had more processing power than a 1980s Casio calculator watch ... thing is crazy slow.
 
Can your alternator even push the head unit and the amps?

Cut the wires on the mystery box and see if your truck still starts........ Do what @jaymar said.
 
Ya I was surprised that the alternator is staying above 13V+ even with no capacitor and the 2000+ watt RMS stereo going as loud as I dare play it. As far as install, I put the headunit in first (prior to the speakers & amps) and it was laggy at that time. Should've been a red flag as factory unit was being sent 10A, which is what the new unit is fused at. Going to try direct wiring the positive to the fused distribution block to see if that fixes things but from some internet sleuthing it seems like it has something to do with the way newer Pioneers react to the turn on lead on older Toyotas (and apparently Subarus). If that doesn't help it's on to a Kenwood unit I guess. For those doing a pretty complete stereo install (eg front & rear cameras, 2-3 amps, xm radio, HDMI, USBs, etc connecting to the rear of head unit), things get tight behind the headunit real fast. If you can get away with a double din unit with a single din back half that'd help out things big time. Obviously this isn't what I did.

Definitely going to disconnect the power going to that mystery box tonight to see what happens. Thanks for the advice guys ... happy as a first time poster that I avoided the dreaded "see that search box at the top of the page" response. This community & forum has been invaluable so far.
 
Maybe an early version rid-a-rat?:cool: index
 
Ya I was surprised that the alternator is staying above 13V+ even with no capacitor and the 2000+ watt RMS stereo going as loud as I dare play it. As far as install, I put the headunit in first (prior to the speakers & amps) and it was laggy at that time. Should've been a red flag as factory unit was being sent 10A, which is what the new unit is fused at. Going to try direct wiring the positive to the fused distribution block to see if that fixes things but from some internet sleuthing it seems like it has something to do with the way newer Pioneers react to the turn on lead on older Toyotas (and apparently Subarus). If that doesn't help it's on to a Kenwood unit I guess. For those doing a pretty complete stereo install (eg front & rear cameras, 2-3 amps, xm radio, HDMI, USBs, etc connecting to the rear of head unit), things get tight behind the headunit real fast. If you can get away with a double din unit with a single din back half that'd help out things big time. Obviously this isn't what I did.

Definitely going to disconnect the power going to that mystery box tonight to see what happens. Thanks for the advice guys ... happy as a first time poster that I avoided the dreaded "see that search box at the top of the page" response. This community & forum has been invaluable so far.


Well........

MAYBE YOU SHOULD HAVE HIT THE "SEARCH" BUTTON ONCE! HUH!?!?!?!?

Look for "Black Box Under The Hood" or something like that!







Feel better now?

I'm always THAT guy......
 
That is a "Vandal Alert". An aftermarket starter interrupt that requires a specific "secret" electrical trigger for the vehicle to start. The switch on the box bypasses it if memory serves. I'd follow the wires back and remove it/restore the original wiring.
 
Holy cow CruiserDan for the win! Encyclopedic !!

Bilt4me - thanks for keeping the newbs grounded ... was about to start a new thread asking what the largest tire size I could fit without a lift. That'd get the blood boiling around here haha.
 
@cruiserdan is THE authority on this site. He's retired and runs the Toyota Museum. He has forgotten more part numbers than you may ever know.
:bounce::bounce2::bounce:

Now, in order to make sure you're really into it........

What oil are you going to use?:rofl:
 
For me it is Mobil1 0-40 European formula. :)
 
Ha I'll be sure to start a new thread with the best oil question. Regardless looks like next round it will now be getting the European Mobil1. The AZ Subaru dealership that shipped the trucked to me did an oil change before putting it on the transport, but I was alarmed when I saw it had some random off brand oil filter on it. Did some research on here and settled on Rotella 15W-40 & Mobil 1 oil filter (M1-302 I think). The Rotella seems nice but I did notice the oil pressure running a bit higher and the cranking time was incrementally longer, both of which were mentioned as potential negatives. It's not leaking so don't know if the 15W is necessary but I am in Texas and it's about to get hot.
 
that is the black box similar to the airplanes. they can pull data off that thing to see how safe or unsafe you been driving incase of an accident.
 
@cruiserdan is THE authority on this site. He's retired and runs the Toyota Museum. He has forgotten more part numbers than you may ever know.
:bounce::bounce2::bounce:

Now, in order to make sure you're really into it........

What oil are you going to use?:rofl:

@cruiserdan has never forgotten a Toyota part number.

@TrickyT beat me to it.

I tested Dan and he freaking remembers Subaru Brat part numbers. He even remembers part numbers for the Original Model T.

*One of these statements may not be true...
 

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