My steering feels very loose and shaky

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SoCal6084

SoCal6084

Joined
Jan 11, 2017
Threads
8
Messages
35
Location
San Diego
Hello all, as the title says, while driving at any speed my steering wheel feels very loose and my cruiser "floats" around in the lane. There's no confidence in the steering at all. What would be the first couple of things you guys would check for and replace? Running 37" MTR's, no spacers, manual.

I bought my cruiser just about a month ago so I don't have any clue on the maintenance and care of it from the previous owner or history. I plan to keep it for the long haul.
 
is it hi steer?
have someone rotate the wheel back and forth and see where there is excessive movement.
there should be 4 joints total to look at.
spring bushings?
u-bolts tight?
play in steering column u-joints?
wheel bearings tight?
loose knuckles?
 
Check the power steering gear box too. Check for leaking where it mounts to the frame. Tie rods ends too as well as the steering stabilizer.
 
Common on 60s with old front end components.

Prolly time for front end rebuild, i.e. TREs, Relay Rod ends, etc. Gear box service. Steering dampener.

If they haven't been done, 30+ years was a good run.

If they have been done, the links may need to be tightened up, by the screw adjuster on the end, and perhaps your alignment needs to be checked.

I did my complete front end and it still wandered - then Mark at Mark's Off Road did the alignment and all was good! IIRC, it was only off by a 1/2" or so! :p
 
3_puppies said:
is it hi steer?
have someone rotate the wheel back and forth and see where there is excessive movement.
there should be 4 joints total to look at.
spring bushings?
u-bolts tight?
play in steering column u-joints?
wheel bearings tight?
loose knuckles?
Click to expand...
Wheel bearings are tight, no play in the tires rotating back and forth. The steering column feels like there's a lot of play in it. I'm going to do an alignment too to see if that helps
 
Hold the TREs, RREs, one at a time while having someone rock the steering wheel side to side (engine off, of course). If there's play or loosness in the link, it needs to be tightened. They wear.

Helps to have a drag link socket.

spin_prod_206554301
 
Spike Strip said:
Hold the TREs, RREs, one at a time while having someone rock the steering wheel side to side (engine off, of course). If there's play or loosness in the link, it needs to be tightened. They wear.

Helps to have a drag link socket.

spin_prod_206554301
Click to expand...
Forgive my ignorance and lack of knowledge but what are TRE's and RRE's??
 
there's also an adjustment on the gearbox near the steering shaft that will tighten steering (from the wheel). supposedly its night and day in the difference it can make. do that along with the worn component replacement.
 
I recommend tightening up the steering box as well. I did mine last week and it made a noticeable difference. If you can move the steering shaft with your hand and see the wheel move, but the steering linkage is not moving at all then you have a lot of play in the steering box. There is a single bolt with a flat head slot on top of the steering box. Mark the current location of the interior set screw. Loosen the lock nut and tighten by 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut and give it a test drive. This is a simple item and should be checked before jumping into the full alignment.
 
Tie Rod Ends, Relay Rod Ends, All wear, RREs (ones with the flat end) can have the slack taken out of them with the above socket or really big screwdriver. They're the things that pivot on the ends of your steering linkage and movement = wear. If they're old, prolly need replaced. Plus, them monster tires all put greater strain on those components.

If they fail, btw, no steering.

Good Japanese sets are available for around $100 from MUD vendors.

And just a small warning about tightening the screw on the top of the steering box: You can overdo it and damage the box. Follow the FSM. I've seen that cap crack during driving because of too much tightening and spew oil.

The above recommendation is a good place to start with it.

coolfj40_2269_255055980
 
Spike Strip said:
And just a small warning about tightening the screw on the top of the steering box: You can overdo it and damage the box. Follow the FSM. I've seen that cap crack during driving because of too much tightening and spew oil.
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Yeah, I did not go anywhere near mine when I redid my box. Last thing I wanted to do was f that all up. Aside from my box leaking like a sieve, my steering wheel play was fine.
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
Yeah, I did not go anywhere near mine when I redid my box. Last thing I wanted to do was f that all up. Aside from my box leaking like a sieve, my steering wheel play was fine.
Click to expand...

Yeah, smart - it's just that people sometimes go ape shizzle on the box adjuster convinced that's the reason for the lousy steering when it's really just worn linkage components or mis-alignment or half-a-dozen other things that could be wrong on a 30+ year old truck that's prolly been poorly maintained and abused.

Sounds like my life story! :D
 
Agreed. If you do make an adjustment to the worm gear on the steering box do so in small increments and check for any binding which will cause premature wear and make your steering even worse. I am a fan of the jack it up and shake the components to see where the wiggle is, then focus your efforts there.
 
It probably doesn't need to be said but make sure the tire pressure is even. Running odd pressures on 37's can create a bit of a wobble. Just an after thought.
 
cmcp0101 said:
It probably doesn't need to be said but make sure the tire pressure is even. Running odd pressures on 37's can create a bit of a wobble. Just an after thought.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Even my 35's were much different after I checked my tire pressure.
 
Factory Service Manual?
Great info every cruiser owner should know.
 
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