My New Stinky 80

[allan man]

Go to autozone and get the codes read most likely it is the notorious p0401 code and maybe some leaky vacum lines u can probably fix all that under 500 if you do it yourself or maybe get lucky and just clean out that carbon deposits....still a good deal for the price you got it for.....goodluck and keep us updated.

 

[Pin_Head]

I looked that up last night and I'd have to take them to court to recoup any costs. We'll see how much it ends up costing me.

Most people aren't that stupid to end up in court over this if they have any money. Most of the time, you just have point them to the state web site that explains their responsibilities and the fact that there is no way out of it and then they understand that they are screwed and pay up. If it goes to court, you can get a summary judgement that also includes court costs and reasonable expenses since there is nothing else to litigate. They are responsible, so the question is only how much money.

 

[mattafact]

WHOOPS!

It didn't have a cert when you bought it?

I should have done a better inspection. That's on me right there.

Go to autozone and get the codes read most likely it is the notorious p0401 code and maybe some leaky vacum lines u can probably fix all that under 500 if you do it yourself or maybe get lucky and just clean out that carbon deposits....still a good deal for the price you got it for.....goodluck and keep us updated.

It's a 94 so I have to use the paperclip to read the codes. But first I have to put a new bulb in there. Good times. All the vacuum lines except for the ones under the upper plenum are brand new OEM Toyota lines.

 

[mattafact]

Most people aren't that stupid to end up in court over this if they have any money. Most of the time, you just have point them to the state web site that explains their responsibilities and the fact that there is no way out of it and then they understand that they are screwed and pay up. If it goes to court, you can get a summary judgement that also includes court costs and reasonable expenses since there is nothing else to litigate. They are responsible, so the question is only how much money.

If it's more than a couple hundred then I'll probably do that. I have legal insurance through work so it's only a $50 deductible.

 

[western flyer]

X2 on Sam a supper nice guy.

x3 I agree, Sam is super helpful. Nice buy, even with the smog issues.

 

[2fpower]

You may just have to sell it to me. Seeing how it is broken and won't pass smog, I guess I could give you $2,500 for it.

full disclosure.... I live in KS, a non smog state.

 

[mattafact]

You may just have to sell it to me. Seeing how it is broken and won't pass smog, I guess I could give you $2,500 for it.

full disclosure.... I live in KS, a non smog state.

Hmmmm, ok but only if you take the 4 new 255/85r16 Toyo M-55s I have sitting in the third row that Im installing once I deflare it.

I just can't be having more tires sit around my backyard.

 

[mattafact]

Ok, so I took the dash apart and replaced the burned out CEL and exchanged my burned out D bulb for the L bulb, tested the EGR valve and modulator and both were fine. I reset the timing to 3 degrees BTDC, cleared the codes, and put a couple hundred miles on it with no new codes.

I am now smog legal. I think it mostly the advanced timing. I read an article on a smog site that said timing that is too advanced can increase the HC emissions.

Now onto my new problem. The passenger back door and the rear door don't lock or unlock with the switch. The side door isn't bad to deal with but the rear door is annoying, especially since the key doesn't work back there. I pulled panel off the rear hatch and the actuator sounds like it is working but it isn't moving the levers to actually unlock the hatch. I pulled the actuator apart and everything seemed fine but I don't know if something is stripped. Is that a common item to break?

 

[mattafact]

Got my Toyo M-55s installed on my Tundra steelies yesterday. It doesn't get any more "expeditiony" that skinny tires on steelies sucked way into the fenders.

Definitely time to deflare it.

I really need to clean these wheels.

 

[mattafact]

Ok, some updates on stinky (which, ironically, doesn't really stink anymore).

On New Years day, the , myself, and some friends did the Bradshaw trail. Everything went well until about halfway through when I noticed the brakes were using more pedal travel than normal. I chalked it up to the incredibly rough road and figured I was imagining things. It was the day after NYE after all.

We pull onto the freeway to make the 130 mile trek home and smoke starts pouring off my left front wheel.

Ruh Roh.

I pulled over and noticed my already leaky front axle seal had really let go and was pouring oil all over the diff. No big deal. I nursed it home at 55 and used downshifting and my parking brake to slow me down so as not to heat up the front brakes since at the time I thought they were overheating. By the time I got home my brakes were useless and so it sat....until yesterday when I noticed my driver's front wheel had some extra camber, like a lowered civic.

I pulled the front wheel off and noticed the entire disc/hub was loose. That's a relief. I was really hoping it wasn't a bent axle. I popped the dust cover off the drive flange and the snap ring fell off and it looked like this:

Shouldn't it be an outie and not an innie? Curiosity got the best of me and I decided to pull the hub off the spindle. No prob, just 2 bolts to remove from the brake caliper and I'm in business.

It's just a bit greasy down there. Can't wait to really tear into those knuckles.

Once the caliper is out of the way the entire hub just pulled off. I consulted my handy FSM and quickly determined that there should be not one, but two nuts holding the hub to the spindle. Not to worry, Mr T over designed this front end so much that the 3000+ miles I put on it since buying it (several hundred of which were offroad) were no match for the previous owner's neglect. Where 2 nuts are needed, I got by with a snap ring and the brake caliper pinching it on. I wonder what treats lie deeper....

I'm guessing normal wheel bearings don't have this mark?

This spindle hasn't seen grease since Japan.

The drive flange won't go all the way down the splines now.

I obviously need new wheel bearings. The spindle looks a bit tweaked. Anyone have one they want to sell? I have another drive flange so I can use that to determine if its the flange or the splines on the axle. Anyone have a spare birf they want to sell?

I still can't believe how bad they treated this cruiser and how it kept running. They really are amazing vehicles.

 

[mypancreasbroke]

Wow man. I'm impressed at both the trucks durability, and the lack of maintenance the PO seems to have put in. Luckily for me I've experienced the opposite. Started going through my front axle to replace my rotors and found nothing but good news as there wasn't even dirty grease anywhere. Everything looked super well maintained and recently attended too. Good luck on your truck!

 

[96beast]

I have 2 used spindles after I replaced both in my recent front rebuild. PM me if you want more information...

 

[mattafact]

I'm finally tearing into the front end to service the knuckles and replace any broken parts.

Got it all apart and my driver's birf has a ton of material on it from the spindle.

Is it ok to use? I have a new spindle since the old one was pretty tweaked.

I've seen a couple of birfs with these heat spots, any issue there?

 

[neal0124]

Those heat marks are from the factory. There should be more of them evenly spaced around the birf's bell.

 

[mattafact]

Those heat marks are from the factory. There should be more of them evenly spaced around the birf's bell.

They are all around the birf right where the balls are. Glad to know it's normal.

Thanks for the info!

 

[mattafact]

Finished the front knuckle rebuild with a new (to me) spindle and birf. Took it up to Johnson Valley for some camping and between the RTT and all our crap I had about 1" of up travel. Unacceptable. Found a guy on here last week selling brand new OME 850s and 860s for a hell of a price. I used the Slee method to install them today and it couldn't have been easier. Looks a lot better but the stock shocks have to go. Taking it wheeling tomorrow to see how it does.

Not much clearance.

There, that's better.

 

[hawaiicruz]

No outer nut for the wheel bearings?! That could be the worst I've heard yet.

 

[mattafact]

No outer nut for the wheel bearings?! That could be the worst I've heard yet.

Yeah, the lack of maintenance on this cruiser is in some ways better than the "maintenance" the PO thought he was doing. Oh well, I'm bringing it back to health slowly but surely.

 

[mattafact]

Small update on Stinky. The smell is pretty much gone but the head gasket is going unfortunately. It's been losing more and more coolant, a bit of white smoke in the morning, and milky oil on the dipstick and oil fill cap.

Bummer.

 

[bigfj62]

This is like a flash back for me. I bought a stinky Cruiser too. I sware these kids dumped all there sodas on the floor and between the seats for the fun of it. Carpet has since been pulled and pressure washed. Stink is slowly going away. I also found a pot pipe and bb gun pistol under the seat. The front axle was totally gutted and drivers spindle was hashed. Other then the front axle being gutted the truck was surprisingly un-molested and rust free.

I am currently in a battle with the state because they did not like the PO's signature and selling price on the back of the title. I think I got it sorted out. Lesson learned always get a bill of sale.

I have since got the axle rebuilt and lockers working like a charm. Now its time to convince the wife to let me put more money into the "Stinky Cruiser". She just can't see its true colors quite yet.