mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Your list resembles mine....every night is another check box.
Keep it up!
Keep it up!
Builds The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter HemiAlex
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
Update:
Replaced all the 5/16" fuel line and put a new Kyosan fuel pump in. I need to keep a fuel filter handy because they're getting dirty in a few thousand miles. I expect that the tank is covered in fine silt. I think the truck was experiencing ever so slight fuel pressure issues from the 288k original TEQ pump.
Feels smoother all around but I can't tell if it's psychological or not.
Also bought a cup holder for a 60 series from eBay and I find out the hardway that my late 87 build 60 is really more of a 62.
I have a 62 series console and a cup holder for a 60. So I screwed it to the floor in front of the console and went on. $45 that prevents me from buying a $300 conscole when I need other things more.
Tomorrow I'll finish my delco vapor canister and that should eliminate the last of my vapor issues with the tank and an ever so slight gas smell at times.
Replaced all the 5/16" fuel line and put a new Kyosan fuel pump in. I need to keep a fuel filter handy because they're getting dirty in a few thousand miles. I expect that the tank is covered in fine silt. I think the truck was experiencing ever so slight fuel pressure issues from the 288k original TEQ pump.
Feels smoother all around but I can't tell if it's psychological or not.
Also bought a cup holder for a 60 series from eBay and I find out the hardway that my late 87 build 60 is really more of a 62.
I have a 62 series console and a cup holder for a 60. So I screwed it to the floor in front of the console and went on. $45 that prevents me from buying a $300 conscole when I need other things more.
Tomorrow I'll finish my delco vapor canister and that should eliminate the last of my vapor issues with the tank and an ever so slight gas smell at times.
- Thread starter
- #263
Spur of the moment impulse buy-
Kenwood underseat sub 75w rms. This fits with my theme of hidden audio. I've got an premium Kenwood KDC-998 headunit, a mini kenwood amp that fits under the dash behind the radio and a pair of Rockford 6.5" Prime door speakers.
It sounds good now that I added insulation to the doors, but the door speakers are not suited to producing any clean bass in the doors.
I decided to finish out the hidden system with a mini underseat powered sub by Kenwood for $133 from Amazon. It's the smallest one I could find and should be able to fit under the back seat since it's under 3" tall. It will have to be scooted a little forward but should be almost completely hidden once I throw jumper cables in front of it. I only expect it to complete the bass that a factory system would have and I want nothing more.
If I need to it can be easily removed if it interferes too much when the seat is down. I thought about hiding it in the rear quarters but it will most likely move under the passengers seat when the rear heater is deleted.
Kenwood underseat sub 75w rms. This fits with my theme of hidden audio. I've got an premium Kenwood KDC-998 headunit, a mini kenwood amp that fits under the dash behind the radio and a pair of Rockford 6.5" Prime door speakers.
It sounds good now that I added insulation to the doors, but the door speakers are not suited to producing any clean bass in the doors.
I decided to finish out the hidden system with a mini underseat powered sub by Kenwood for $133 from Amazon. It's the smallest one I could find and should be able to fit under the back seat since it's under 3" tall. It will have to be scooted a little forward but should be almost completely hidden once I throw jumper cables in front of it. I only expect it to complete the bass that a factory system would have and I want nothing more.
If I need to it can be easily removed if it interferes too much when the seat is down. I thought about hiding it in the rear quarters but it will most likely move under the passengers seat when the rear heater is deleted.
I'm waiting to see why you had your head taken apart on your IG photo.
Makes sense now. Otherwise I was going to say you sure got it back together quickly
- Thread starter
- #267
Mine has been solid and running great for almost a year since my refresh. I can't complain about it's performance at all!
- Thread starter
- #268
I added the small amp, and it sounds great. Not glass shaking but certainly feels more like a proper oem system with balanced levels. The doors no longer rattle since the 6.5" speakers aren't trying to produce bass like before.
Really simple install, completely removable if I need the space and a great addition to fill the void of all this space in the truck.
Really simple install, completely removable if I need the space and a great addition to fill the void of all this space in the truck.
- Thread starter
- #269
It's been a while, but I've caught up on a few things:
Decided I'm done with the LED headlights for a while. Ordered the ARB/IPF harness and a pair of 80/100w bulbs. Every so often they blink or pulse with the horn/wipers/stereo and I know that's not the bulbs fault, but I wanted more light output while taking load off the old wires.
Also, one of my knock off euro mirrors cracked. Started vibrating more and more, and either it is a piece of Taiwanese junk or someone leaned on it. Some jb weld fixed it and stopped the crack.
The picture of the temp gauge is where it would be after any time on the freeway. That's 190* on my IR gun. It never overheated but I had concerns that I was right on the edge.
Finally flushed the system and put some good Zerex coolant in. Also put in an oem thermostat. Currently bleeding the system little by little. I was getting a temp spike on the highway and I think it was the non-oem t stat. So far, much more consistent operation. Didn't really move from the middle all day and it's 97* today.
I also went ahead and bypassed the rear heater with the McMaster Carr plug and a piece of 5/8 heater hose. One less place for my truck to leak from.
Oh and an oil change with Delo and a Mobil 1 Filter . That's about as exciting as I like it now a days.
It just hit 289,300 miles.
Also went out and took some pictures to celebrate.
Decided I'm done with the LED headlights for a while. Ordered the ARB/IPF harness and a pair of 80/100w bulbs. Every so often they blink or pulse with the horn/wipers/stereo and I know that's not the bulbs fault, but I wanted more light output while taking load off the old wires.
Also, one of my knock off euro mirrors cracked. Started vibrating more and more, and either it is a piece of Taiwanese junk or someone leaned on it. Some jb weld fixed it and stopped the crack.
The picture of the temp gauge is where it would be after any time on the freeway. That's 190* on my IR gun. It never overheated but I had concerns that I was right on the edge.
Finally flushed the system and put some good Zerex coolant in. Also put in an oem thermostat. Currently bleeding the system little by little. I was getting a temp spike on the highway and I think it was the non-oem t stat. So far, much more consistent operation. Didn't really move from the middle all day and it's 97* today.
I also went ahead and bypassed the rear heater with the McMaster Carr plug and a piece of 5/8 heater hose. One less place for my truck to leak from.
Oh and an oil change with Delo and a Mobil 1 Filter . That's about as exciting as I like it now a days.
It just hit 289,300 miles.
Also went out and took some pictures to celebrate.
Last edited:
ROBsSON
Yeah thats my dad
Just read through the build awesome 60 always fun reading though and seeing the transformation.
- Thread starter
- #271
Thanks! It's a constant battle, but I get to drive this classic car daily and I love it.
Never let me down, yet...
Never let me down, yet...
- Thread starter
- #272
Now that the cooling system is working better, I find that all my hose clamps are requiring attention one by one.
Just a few turns stops the weeping. I chose to use oem style wire clamps and a year later I'm still working on the fine line between snug and broken to pieces.
Just a few turns stops the weeping. I chose to use oem style wire clamps and a year later I'm still working on the fine line between snug and broken to pieces.
- Thread starter
- #273
Finally got the leaks stopped and I bled the sending unit. Turns out the PO used a non oem sending unit.
Waiting on an oem replacement for it.
I also bought a proper fill tool. Way nicer than I'm used to.
Waiting on an oem replacement for it.
I also bought a proper fill tool. Way nicer than I'm used to.
- Thread starter
- #274
The plot thickens...
So I was missing the upper o ring gasket on my thermostat. I had no idea. When I redid the thermostat, I added it and bled the system.
Then my coolant clamps started leaking one by one because I was actually building pressure. The truck also warms up way quicker in the morning now.
I used the OEM style throughout. There's a fine line between tight and breaking them so I usually tighten them until I stop seeing leaks over the course of a few days.
After a week of letting the truck heat cycle, I was finally able to get the drips to stop. Then when I turned the heater on I heard yet another gurgle of air. So the 4 times I've burped the radiator wasn't enough.
I'll be swapping the coolant temp sensor yet again (was mistakenly sent a 55 series sensor) and bleeding the system for what I imagine is the last time, adding an inline resistor to calibrate the gauge and moving on from spending every other day getting coolant drips on my clothing.
So I was missing the upper o ring gasket on my thermostat. I had no idea. When I redid the thermostat, I added it and bled the system.
Then my coolant clamps started leaking one by one because I was actually building pressure. The truck also warms up way quicker in the morning now.
I used the OEM style throughout. There's a fine line between tight and breaking them so I usually tighten them until I stop seeing leaks over the course of a few days.
After a week of letting the truck heat cycle, I was finally able to get the drips to stop. Then when I turned the heater on I heard yet another gurgle of air. So the 4 times I've burped the radiator wasn't enough.
I'll be swapping the coolant temp sensor yet again (was mistakenly sent a 55 series sensor) and bleeding the system for what I imagine is the last time, adding an inline resistor to calibrate the gauge and moving on from spending every other day getting coolant drips on my clothing.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I hear you. When I pulled my tstat housing off the head I found that the upper gasket wasn't seated fully and was cocked off to the side. That was my mistake cuz I replaced that ages ago. Clearly I wasn't as careful I needed to be. Will be this time for sure. Leaks suck.
- Thread starter
- #276
My cooling system debacle is over with.
I finally believe the temp on my truck. As we all know the factory gauge is an uncertain suggestion. Replaced the whole coolant system and burped it countless times, added a new oem temperature sending unit with a 10 ohm resistor to bring it down into a middle range and I was still uncertain other than what the IR temp gun was telling me at idle while parked. Added this little nifty motorcycle temp gauge from koso, with their 16mm barb fitting adapter and added this inline gauge to my heater line right next to to oem temp sending unit. It all reads reasonably and honestly now with the numbers making sense now that I've got context.
The gauge is BA024211 and the 16mm hose adapter is BG016B00.
I finally believe the temp on my truck. As we all know the factory gauge is an uncertain suggestion. Replaced the whole coolant system and burped it countless times, added a new oem temperature sending unit with a 10 ohm resistor to bring it down into a middle range and I was still uncertain other than what the IR temp gun was telling me at idle while parked. Added this little nifty motorcycle temp gauge from koso, with their 16mm barb fitting adapter and added this inline gauge to my heater line right next to to oem temp sending unit. It all reads reasonably and honestly now with the numbers making sense now that I've got context.
The gauge is BA024211 and the 16mm hose adapter is BG016B00.
- Thread starter
- #277
6000 miles on these denso plugs. A little oil on 3 straps but nothing serious. I try to run top tier fuel or NEG and always good oil and filters.
I'm not mad at how they look after 290,000 miles on the motor. I've got more oil leaking from the side cover than getting past the rings so that's a good thing.
Went with NGK copper this time around.
I'm not mad at how they look after 290,000 miles on the motor. I've got more oil leaking from the side cover than getting past the rings so that's a good thing.
Went with NGK copper this time around.
- Thread starter
- #278
Another shot.
- Thread starter
- #279
Recent updates:
Loving the arb harness with basic hella 80w bulbs. More light than the Amazon led bulbs with none of the compromises.
It flooded in Texas. My truck didn't care and I was able to help. I'm rewarding it for the awesomeness with an ARB breather kit and a knock off safari snorkel. I was able to go rescue a friend and his dogs and run supplies into bad areas with ease. It knocks out 3 feet of water with ease.
Still daily driving it and no intention to stop.
Loving the arb harness with basic hella 80w bulbs. More light than the Amazon led bulbs with none of the compromises.
It flooded in Texas. My truck didn't care and I was able to help. I'm rewarding it for the awesomeness with an ARB breather kit and a knock off safari snorkel. I was able to go rescue a friend and his dogs and run supplies into bad areas with ease. It knocks out 3 feet of water with ease.
Still daily driving it and no intention to stop.
- Thread starter
- #280
500 miles, a few tanks of gas and 13.8 mpg while holding 2500-2800 rpm. A good day and a super comfy truck, nobody complained
Also got to see @houstonfj40 and his PRISTINE 62.
This truck is begging for a 5th gear.
Also got to see @houstonfj40 and his PRISTINE 62.
This truck is begging for a 5th gear.
